Me dum dum

Started by vonrumble, October 23, 2007, 11:25:42 PM

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vonrumble

Right hopefully someone shed some light on this problem. I tried to fit a mazda speed air filter to my n/a 99 fc. I removed the air flow meter lead that is plugged into the metal box underneath the stock filter box. I realised i couldnt fit the new filter without a new bracket of some kind. So i put it all back together all the breather pipes and the lead plugged in. Tried to start the engine and it just ticks over and doesnt start. Theres fuel and theres voltage so any ideas have a messed up the ecu by unplugging the air flow meter?:Nono!

Prof

There\'s a cut off switch built into the airflow meter - cut\'s fuel when the car\'s upside down - but you said you were getting fuel.
 
Apart from that, I\'d try unplugging it and plugging it back in again - making sure all the pins are clean and getting good contact.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


Jit

check that the AFM is plugged in properly....not sure what it controls on the mazda but i know it wont let a toyota run for more than 2 seconds...

billybobbooth

Quote from: Jitcheck that the AFM is plugged in properly....not sure what it controls on the mazda but i know it wont let a toyota run for more than 2 seconds...

and on the turbos your lucky if it will start!

vonrumble

Still wont start even though i  have plugged the afm lead in and out again. Where about is the cut off switch? i have noticed theres a moving part inside that like a metal flap, is that anything to do with it?

vonrumble

Its really strange could do with some advice. Also if or when its running, now its my rx\'s first winter with me. I need to locate the heater fuse. no idea where to look as the heaters have never worked since i have had it and i hope its the fuse.

vonrumble


Brett

First check you have not damaged the plug or socket, assuming that is ok you need to check that you have no air leaking in past the AFM.
 Is jsut turning over or does it fire a little bit?

 Also, check your plugs, if they are soaked you will never get it to run!

 The flap is part of the metering device, leave it be.

 :wave
Brap Brap Brap Brap

vonrumble

Sorted it out now, as you said it was flooded did the usual de flooding proceedure and now all good, untill i went to get some fuel and the alternater belt snapped only just got it back and now everthing is fine. Thankgod :):King

Prof

Quote from: vonrumbleStill wont start even though i have plugged the afm lead in and out again. Where about is the cut off switch? i have noticed theres a moving part inside that like a metal flap, is that anything to do with it?

Just for reference, the cut off switch is inside the AFM casing on the older series 4 AFM\'s, and comes out on 2 pins - I don\'t have the pdf at work, but can post it up tonight for you.  Basically if you mount the AFM at steep angle or upside down it will prevent the circuit opening relay from giving power to the fuel pump.  They got rid of it in the Series 5 AFM\'s with the cone shaped meter device.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


vonrumble

Yeah cheers that would be good. Also i have searched older threads but no clear explaination to why my heaters/blowers arnt working. checked the fuses in the driver footwell, none of them blown. very strange. Really could do with getting them working as its a cold journey to work! :(

vonrumble

.....................................?

grinder

the control panel is prob shot at - i have heard a few of these failing .. cant think of the technical name for it though :( ( the part - not the problem ! )


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vonrumble

What the actual unit its self you think is buggered?????

vonrumble