Calling all engine builders

Started by imebgo, October 08, 2007, 11:01:02 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Martiny

James, I think you need to take the whole lot to your Vendor and get an opinion... this sounds really strange to me....

imebgo

Yea, it is a bit fishy, ill see what jason has to say about it tommorow...

A bit of a shame really considering I spent sooooo long watching the DVD, reading posts and the manuals, and been eager to do this for a year now..

Thanks for your comments and help, and hopefully it wont be too costly tommorow! :)

James

ianelvar

Sounds to me like the rear rotor is causing the problem. Just wondering if you\'ve got a seal or something out of place? A side seal for example, might cause the rotor to sit slightly skewed in the chamber, and the bearing will bind because it\'s not running true with the e-shaft. Could also be an oil seal that\'s not quite sat right. Would also explain why it jams when you apply full torque to the bolts.

Just a few ideas, hope it\'s helpful. I\'ve not actually rebuilt a motor yet, but I plan to, and like you I\'ve done a whole load of research.
Anyway, good luck. Hope it\'s something simple to put right.

imebgo

if its that simple then ill owe you a beer for suggesting it ;)

I\'ve had the rear rotor out a couple of times now to check evrything, but i havent had the front one out....

Could be something else to check.. maybe go back to square one and attempt the build again, its just a pain going through it all to end up the same place as before! :spank

James

ianelvar

lets hope! If you\'re going to pull it apart again, my plan of attack would be to bolt it up without the rotors and see if it still jams and 30nm. Got a couple of other ideas too if you\'re interested. Don\'t want to over-do it and sound patronising though. :flamed

nikp

If you going to be pulling it apart, and putting it back together again lots of times, it might be worth doing so without the water seals in as you don;t want them to go through the process of being squished down too many times.

imebgo

lol, fire those ideas out man, be as patronising as you like, sometimes the only way to learn is from your mistakes ;)

James

ianelvar

Ok, here goes. I hope I\'m not leading you on wild goose chase, but these are things i\'d check:

Take a micrometer and measure the width over the oil seals from one side to the other. Take measurements all the way around the rotor and make sure you haven\'t got any high spots.

Double check the springs for the side seals are sat down properly. Maybe sit the rotor on its side on a flat surface and put the rear housing on top of it. make sure that the side seals all sit down in their grooves nicely and the plate sits flat over the top and not lop-sided. If you\'ve got a set of bore gauges they\'d be ideal for measuring the height that the plate sits at at various points around it.

The only other thing I can think of is that the rear hosing isn\'t sitting flat against the side housing. Pretty tricky to measure though, unless you take the E-shaft out and again use bore gauges to measure the width between the rear and intermediate plate.

Check for witness marks on the bearings. If it\'s a bearing binding you might find there are little spots where the soft metal has been rubbed hard. Clean them up as best you can and have a good look.

You can check the e-shaft isn\'t bent by making up some blocks of wood with a V cut into them. Make them big enough so that you can set them on a bench and rest the e-shaft front and rear journals on them. Give it a bit of oil and turn it. Shouldn\'t be too difficult to determine if it\'s got a bend in it.

RobbieRX-7

You could also try fitting the rotors without all the seals in. Remove side seals/ springs, oil control rings/springs, corner seals and springs, then fit both S-gears and the E-shaft. If it\'s free to move up/down, you know there is a problem with one of the seals on the rotors. just make sure you make a good note of where the various seals came from because each side of a rotor can be very slightly different to another side. Also as nik said, take those water and combustion seals out if your going to be riping apart/rebuilding.

Hope you get it sorted soon mate. I can guess how p i s s e d you are right now.

imebgo

#39
Cheers guys, its all very well following instructions, but if you dont have *much* expereience in this sort of thing, when something doesnt go to plan it can be quiet difficult to figure out why...  

James

antnicuk

just something to check,  if you have left an old side seal spring in a rotor your new side seal and spring would stick out too much, they can be little b11ggers to get out.
400 BHP - 650 KG\'s = 616 BHP Per Ton of Rotary Power

That\'s the way to do it! :Thumbsup!


imebgo

Now we are entering the realms of general stupidity (on my part) ;) lol

But I will check everything as im going to take it back down to square 1 and rebuild

Im pretty confident all the sprnigs werre out becuase it took me about 4 evenings to clean down my rotors and I kept checking grooves, draging old seals through them to clean them out.

James

Martiny

Quote from: RobbieRX-7You could also try fitting the rotors without all the seals in. Remove side seals/ springs, oil control rings/springs, corner seals and springs, then fit both S-gears and the E-shaft. If it\'s free to move up/down, you know there is a problem with one of the seals on the rotors. just make sure you make a good note of where the various seals came from because each side of a rotor can be very slightly different to another side. Also as nik said, take those water and combustion seals out if your going to be riping apart/rebuilding.

Hope you get it sorted soon mate. I can guess how p i s s e d you are right now.

Good stuff, Robbie.

I thought of re-assembly WITHOUT the rotors at all!  Then lets add one Rotor at a time with no seals, then with seals,  etc etc....

nikp

How about re-assembly without the e-shaft too? :D (Sorry, another one i couldn\'t resist on!)

Martiny