Starts and stalls - why won\'t it run?

Started by FlappyCat, June 28, 2007, 04:39:32 PM

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FlappyCat

Hi All

I had my low water light & buzzer come on the other day. The car didn\'t overheat and gauge remained about half way between hot & cold. I got home, topped up coolant and allowed the car to tick over for a little while with the \'Rad\' cap off to expel any air.

After five minutes or so, it stalled and now starts and stalls (after about a second) identically every time I try.

Any thoughts - anyone?

Thanks

FC:2Confused

gsb876

Have you checked the plugs my man ??? pull em and see if they are ok or covered in carbon ??
"Every generation has the chance to change the world"

Mills & Bains guest author :Giggle

FlappyCat

Thanks for the superfast response, It is to be my first task if the rain ever stops!

gsb876

Quote from: FlappyCatThanks for the superfast response, It is to be my first task if the rain ever stops!


I have a FD but the ideas are the same, try the plugs as if they are covered in carbon it will make the car idle very poorly and stall, i think you bled the system correctly so that should be ok, check the rear of the car to see if theres excess white smoke coming out of the exhaust as a sign of water getting into the combustion cambers thus seals might be on the way out which sadly will mean rebuild.

Try the plugs first though buddy :wave
"Every generation has the chance to change the world"

Mills & Bains guest author :Giggle

FlappyCat

Sun is out - I\'m all over it!

Thanks again and I\'m hoping for carbon rather than w@nkered Wankel!

lanciachris

You will need to open the bleed tap at the top of the radiator as well to get it bled correctly

FlappyCat

Well.. got it running (damn those spark plugs are awkward to reach!) but it looks like there is a major coolant leak from the engine, can\'t see where exactly.

Just when I was being impressed by it\'s reliability!

elford_tim

I was just going to say - as the quip goes, the temp gauge on these has only three settings. Cold, normal and engine cooked...
1989 Turbo II convertible in Essex Stilletto white

FlappyCat

Seems that way Tim, although mine has gone from transport to irrigation system. Still, I\'ve got a rainy weekend ahead of me trying to find where the water is leaking from and whether it is going to mean the glue factory for it!

Prof

Problem with the coolant temp, is it\'s going to show normal or even low when there is little or no coolant!
 
Oil temp is a bit more revealing in those cases.  Worth the expenditure in the long run.
 
You can lose an engine to a failed water pump or coolant leak - be wary !
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


nikp

Quote from: ProfYou can lose an engine to a failed water pump or coolant leak - be wary !

I had a coolant leak in my FD the other day - went from 82 degrees to 101 degrees in a matter of seconds!

FlappyCat

The oil temp gauge sounds like a good idea - probably a bit retrospective for this unit now but if I do rebuild, I will definately be fitting one.

A couple of spin off questions then:
Is there a reliable source for affordable engines.
Is replacing a TII engine any more complex than conventional one/special considerations?

Thanks all