juddering and shaking

Started by G@NDY, August 19, 2006, 04:54:22 PM

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BlitzBoy

well we had it up on the ramps, the mounts are fine, the diff is fduked, planetary gears are smashed.
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

TRex

I know where a good Diff can be found for £120.  :yes
TRex the Ecowarrior - Recycling exhaust gas and using it to create energy. Just doing my bit

BlitzBoy

lookind for a 1.5 way locking diff MrTRex otherwide im gonna smash a standard one again in no time
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

G@NDY

Changed the mounts (well a garage did) and the hopping in reverse has gone but the juddering is still there:2Confused :2Confused My diff mounts that come off looked good, so who knows possibly its my diff then, better start saving

had my diff brace fitted aswell and all its done is make the car even noisier as now all your hear (apart from the stupid loud exhaust and the screamer pipe) is the diff whining away to itself. Stupid cars:2eek

b
u
g
g
e
r
:p
If you want to be Awesome then join http://www.team-awesomeness.co.nr/

m4drx

im about to do mine as it has all these symptoms what turned out with yours?
fduk.

20B_boy

Have you checked the ppf for cracks?
R.

FD3SNuttah

cant help you with the juddering mate - but heres what "whip" means =

1.     Whip     
   
When the steering wheel was first put into use in automobiles, it was called the "whip". The whip is what you used to control the horses on a stagecoach, hence the analogy.

Many years later, various hip hop artists noticed that the Mercedes-Benz logo resembled a steering wheel. They then proceeded to use the old term "whip" to describe any Mercedes-Benz vehicle. The term has now been generalized to classify any expensive automobile.

Check the new whip, thug! I dropped 300 G\'s on this V12, now I\'m ballin\' like James Bond when he was still gettin\' pussy!

G@NDY

lmao:rollin  thanks for the explanation bud, can my car be called a whip then? as its cost me a bloody fortune, lol.:rolleyes: :King :cheers
If you want to be Awesome then join http://www.team-awesomeness.co.nr/

G@NDY

Quoteim about to do mine as it has all these symptoms what turned out with yours?
Im putting mine down to having a lightened flywheel without replacing the counterweight:3Confused
QuoteHave you checked the ppf for cracks
yes matey, it was fine the last time the block was out:)
If you want to be Awesome then join http://www.team-awesomeness.co.nr/

Red Leader

I know this is not much help.:o

When i collected my car from one the sites vendors. I had the same thing. If your in fifth say doing 50mph come off the power. The car slows when it gets to just below 40mph the car judders. Back on the power also OK.
Was lead to belive by the vendor this was common tranmission slack. Replaced the gearbox oil with redline heavy duty. Now judders closer to the 30 mph mark.

50 miles atfer that the engine blow a coolant gasket.:eek:

Jim_rx7

My car likes to judder quite badly at 30mph in 4th (when I\'m off the throttle). Fine when on or braking.

So what\'s it likely to be??

I\'ll get the front Diff mounts checked asap. If they are ok, is it easy to asess if the diff is shot or not?? Could the diff be low on oil (is that even possible?).

khyber pass

Here\'s the detail on diff and transmission oil changes....

Changing the diff and transmission fluids
The diff is easy the transmission is tricky. First I went to Home Depot and got 8 Ft of 5/8th od dia clear tubing and a plastic funnel set. That\'s how you get the oil in the transmission and differential. Now, make sure you have 3 new aluminum washers for the large transmission drain plug, the differential fill plug and differential drain plug before you start. I get mine from the dealer. I don\'t like using the copper ones that the parts stores usually carry because, at least here at the beach, galvanic corrosion (from dissimilar metals) can be a problem. Make sure you have a tube of liquid Teflon thread sealant for the small transmission drain plug and the transmission fill plug (also at Home Depot, or you can get the fancy automotive stuff at the parts store). You also need a few large metric combination wrenches and sockets I can\'t remember the exact sizes but I think they were ~22-25mm. Finally you need 3 quarts of oil for the transmission and 2 quarts for the differential. I used Redline MTL for the tranny and Redline 75-W90 for the diff.
The differential is easy the plugs are in the back, undo the fill plug then undo the drain plug. Put the new washers on the plugs, and put the drain back in. Stuff one end of the hose into the differential fill hole, push the funnel onto the other end of the hose. Stand up next to the rear of the car while holding the funnel. Slowly pour in the oil until it just begins to spill out of the fill hole. As a side note, the car should be completely level while doing all filling operations.
Now for the transmission, there are two drain plugs, one fill plug and one plug that you don\'t touch. First remove the sheet aluminum cover and set it aside. On the bottom of the transmission case is an obvious big drain plug. The other three plugs are on the driver\'s side of the transmission. The highest one has a recessed square socket don\'t touch it. Approximately below it is a plug with a protruding square socket, this is the fill plug. Behind and a little below the fill plug is another protruding square socket plug, this is the second drain plug. Remove the fill plug then the big drain plug let the oil run out. Then remove the second drain plug. You remove the fill plug first other wise the oil "plops" out everywhere except in your drain pan (you did remember to put a pan under the drain plug :).To fill the trans put the new washer on the big drain plug and the sealant on the second drain plug and put them back in. Stuff the funnel in one end of the hose and ~3" of the hose in the fill hole (it just barely fits) stand up next to the car while holding the funnel and slowly pour in the oil until it just starts to spill out.

cheers :)

Jim_rx7

what oil is needed for the diff?