Radweld/ Barrs Stop leak safe in FD3S

Started by Evil Twin, February 04, 2007, 05:42:27 PM

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sparkgap

#15
You know it makes sense. I tried grinding and epoxying the old rad crack several times but there was always a little leak after a few hundred miles.
Welded rads are the only WTG. Cooling is paramount, just one overheat episode can destroy your Wankel.

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Quote from: Evil TwinThanks for the input from all you chaps.  I\'ve read all the replies and talked to many people about this stuff. I\'m not fully convinced to go ahead and try it.  

So since I plan to keep the RX for a period of time, I am going to go down the aluminium route, probably with a set of silicone hoses to keep things reliable.

Are Samco the best hose manufacturer about?

Its just important to remember that rad weld is just a quick fix until you can replace or repair.

Samco are not the best, doubt there\'s much between any of the manufacturers, but a known brand.
We sell SFS
http://www.rotaryart.uk.com/acatalog/Silicon_Hose.html

clive

Quote from: Evil TwinIs it safe to use Radweld or Barrs stop leak in the RX-7 setup, or will it cause problems in the system with seals, pills etc?

Please renew the rad as older FD top n bottom tanks are now very very brittle, and will not recore, yes it will cost but it is far cheaper than an engine.

Unfortunately with a rotary if you cook it just once it will come back and haunt you even if it seems OK at the time.

Radweld and bars leak WILL block some of the smaller passageways in the engine itself.

There are some ceramic sealers on the market that are OK for the engine but from your description ultimately your rad will die even if you can stop the leak short term because of where its leaking, sorry.
All the best Clive

sparkgap

#18
Quote from: robedwards99May not help at all but a tip I picked up the other day....
 
remove the pipe from the right side of the AST and blow down it. Had someone do this and it cured my water leak!

That\'ll be the pipe going to the expansion tank then. I bet you just had air leaking in while the car was cooling down and trying to suck coolant back(which is uphill), eventually setting off the low coolant alarm with the accumulated air.
Dunno if blowing had anything to do with the fix, he probably just got lucky and re-seated the leaky pipe/ast union.
Otherwise there\'s some kind of magic going on.