My Winter Project

[Prof]

why is the Gtec a hassle ??

You have to mount it on the dash so it\'s level, and the single switch takes a bit of getting used to, but the device is suprisingly accurate - it was off by about .1 sec

I\'ll pm some pics to you.

[grinder]

oooohhhhh good man

not sure if you can PM pics though ??

what does it measure ?

( can feel new toys coming along here )

[Prof]

Was going to take some piccies today of the dPic installed in the car - but a terrible thing happened...
 
Pulsing noise from the exhaust - spelling only one thing...
 
...it\'s rebuild o\'clock again - this engine lasted 27,000 miles and a little over 2 years
 
And in fairness it hasn\'t quite gone yet, but has very low compression on the front rotor 3.5 / 4 / 6.4 - so it was hard starting and although it idles all be it a little roughly, it won\'t be long for this world.  Luckilly I caught it before it\'s gone too far - otherwise more damage could have been done - hoping that the rotor housings are ok on this one - and it\'s just a cracked seal.
 
Seems I will be spending my repaint fund on an engine build - ho hum

[grinder]

your joking matey ?!?!?!

27K thats not a lot - who did the rebuild

[Prof]

Rotechnicks did the last rebuild - to be honest the car has had a history of misbehaving with boot problems, the turbo leaking oil - not sure if any of this has contributed to the early demise.

The car is a daily runner, and whilst I give it time to warm up and cool down, it does get a good running - roads and traffic permitting.

I\'m philisophical about it - at the end of the day the performance mods I want to put on would be better hanging on a newly built engine, so I am adopting that mindset for this one.

The big question is whether I get a street port or not at this stage.  I don\'t think Rotechnicks will do any porting - and I\'m not sure what they are going to say regarding the intended mods - but hoping to have a chat with David today regarding that - maybe go for a more limited warranty on the engine build.  At the end of the day, the mods are all designed to work together to produce more power safely - so who knows.

[sadgoth]

I think Carl used to do some rebuild work for Rotechnics in the past when they had too much on their plates - might be able to do some porting if you can get Carl involved?

[Prof]

Well spoke to David at Rotechnicks today, and showed him my list of intended mods - with a few items up for a slight tweek he seems to think it\'s a sensible plan.  I even get a 2 year warranty minus tip failure
 
And a mild street port it is then... :Thumbs-up
 
Given the slightly bigger turbo, and running much higher boost at 1 bar+ eventually, a street port will give it the freedom to breeth.  I declined the ceramic seals - at over £1K they are way too pricey for me.:eek :eek
 
So it\'s getting a rebuild and I\'ll be running it in just on spring boost to Christmas.  During that time I\'ll get the eManage in and start datalogging for a base map, then get the boost controller working the boost up to just above the old stock levels - say 9-10 psi, as the ECU has fuelling for that anyway.
 
Looks like I brought my Chrismas present to myself early this year !!

[Prof]

ok time for an update !
 
So we now know why it let go - it appears that the engine has overheated at some point - suspect it was when the water pump let go, although that was nearly 6 months ago, and the car has covered many miles since then...
 
The damage was there to see - curiosity got the better of me, so I asked Dave at Rotechnicks if I could take a look at the engine internals. The rotors are caked in charcoal, which wasn\'t surpising giving the oil usage.
 
The springs had all lost their sprung one of the corner seal springs was all but gone - the larger part of it seems to have attempted to exit via one of the intake ports, leaving a knick in the housing. There are also crack fractures in the rotor housing wall around the plug holes (on the inside).
 
They were surpised the engine was running at all given the state of the innards. :eek
 
So it\'s a rebuild with 2 new rotor housings for me - might get it back just in time for Christmas - bugger of a time for it to let go - might have to sell my body to get cash for the street porting. :p
 
Annoyingly as well, it will of course need running in - which is about 1 1/2 months driving to/from work.  I will do this before any performance mods besides the new turbo and hoses of course. :driving

[grinder]

sounds like a lot of damage there matey

i like the idea of porting it though

Stu

[antnicuk]

are you sure you don t want to have a go yourself Prof, there are plenty of people on here who can help

[Prof]

Actually thinking of doing that next year - when I get some of my Garage space back - going to aquire an old engine to do up, and then keep it as a spare. I\'ve rebuilt a piston engine a long time ago, which was a 2 cylinder 850cc Rotorvator - hardly a car engine - but the thing was seized good - had to grind the valve seats - the whole works - but got it running again.
 
I seem to have turned my hands to most things recently - plumbing, wiriing and the like.

[Prof]

ok - thought I had better post an update since the car has been off the road since November 1st !
 
Rotechniks have rebuilt the engine, and it has new rotors and housings, since both were damaged in the original (seems it had overheated when the water pump failed - and this was with the water topped up straight away and pump replaced day after!
 
Since it was rebuild time it got ported (street) - well you would wouldn\'t you !
 
New turbo is on (hybrid Garrett front end T04B, and HT18 hot side with ported wastegate and hi flowed turbine), but since the engine will need running in no extra boost will be dialled in - it will be running spring only for the first 1000 miles, but there is a Profec B spec II lurking to handle over 1 bar of boost when the new piggy back ecu goes on and the engine\'s run in.
 
Nearly picked it up today, but a little oil drip near the turbo needs sorting first, as we don\'t want any fires !
 
New Racing Beat springs all round (these are purpose made for the vert, and don\'t lower it much - about 0.5 " tops - but they offer a harder and more progressive spring than stock). Also had all the bushes done, and engine mounts and gear box mounts, except dtss eliminators for now - might put them on later - I want to drive it first and see what she feels like. Rotechniks had it out for a spin today and it is apparently excellent in the twisties. Can\'t wait to drive it.
 
So left to do:
 
Fit the Greddy Emanage Ultimate, and get it data logging whilst I run it in - should have done the 1000 miles by the tunnel run - might have to go on some long weekend drives !
 
Once the engine is run in and the ECU and Wideband lambda fitted, it get\'s dyno\'d before putting the other toys on:
 
Water Injection courtesy of Coolingmist
Larger 800 Secondaries
Greddy Compression tube and Arc Intercooler
Water spray system for intercooler (optional - see what it does on the dyno)
Electric Rad Fan
Stepper Motor adjustable suspension - lazy mans option for adjusting the Koni\'s - bit of a DIY project.
 
Body wise - it needs front lip, side skirts and a spray, plus some finishing off on the lights

[grinder]

sounding good dave

looking forward to racing you on the strip

you will walk all over me with that set up - but i have never raced another FC before !! LOL

what BHP you expecting from it - circa 250 at the wheels ??

ive got the FMIC sat here waiting to be fitted , and the coil overs , and the exhaust etc...
 
Stu

[Prof]

Calculations show it could go as high as 360 at the fly - which is almost 300 at the wheels - 250 would be good to start with - but I might need to swap primaries for that as well, to avoid running the injectors at too high a duty cycle.  360 is achievable on paper with a slight increase in fuel pressure and running both primary and secondary injectors at 85% duty
 
This is easy with the Emanage Ultimate, as you just tell it the size of the new injectors and press a button - it calculates the fuel cut required automatically !
 
Not sure how much it will make with the boost controller just running it at 10 psi - as the Jap ecu that\'s in there has fuelling maps for that much boost anyway, and on a ported engine it should get close to Brett\'s 270 ish that he got on his TII.
 
Hence the plan :
 
Run in, datalogging, dyno, up the boost to 10 psi and re dyno, then after some more mapping, change secondaries, remap do another dyno (a few weeks later - build up the power in stages and get out of the cold weather before letting all that horespower out on the road ! )
 
I\'ve only raced skylines and scoobies - and they win all the time.  I think with the car still being heavy, it will still be in the 12-13 second mark on a 1/4 mile - but who knows
 
Roll on Monday !!

[grinder]

crickey - thats some nice figures

i think you are one of only a hand few of people doing this in a vert

sounds like its gonna be a mean machine

will scare some of the FD boys

keep up the good work matey

85% duty - oohhh safe

might have to get some 720\'s for mine - not sure if i will need them or not though

what fuel pump are you gonna run .. the 044 one ??