Porting questions!

Started by R1Dude, November 30, 2006, 11:47:41 PM

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BlitzBoy

it does not happen all the time, but you realise you have to really hit the pedal hard to stop the car a very low speeds
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

Grizzly

I found it more at Low speed (Traffic etc), Its more of a Brown pants moment than anything, I never had a problem when i was out Playing.

Its just one of those things that happens once and you do some thing about. Alot of people just get rid of the Servo and fit a Proper ballance Brake System (as most Turbo Bridges are built with one thing in Mind ;))

dre

I have a half bridge on my FD, never had a problem with braking tho, or shall i say a noticeable problem. Vacuum is much less on idle than a street port, due to overlap and blow by.

Stuart you got a bit close to the water jacket there on your port!!! Don\'t want it much thinner than that cos it could cause you all sorts of problems!!

Blitz Boy - didn\'t realise u went bridge! How do you like it compared to your street ported block? Take it u kept the same turbo setup??
DRE  :cool

Carl

You can go way further than that into the water jacket.Well past the inner coolnat "O" rings.
You just need to know what you are doing.
Regards
Carl

Grizzly

Yeh but J Ports are renound for being short life engines, You realy want to keep the O ring in one piece if you want a good water seal.

Carl

Quote from: GrizzlyYeh but J Ports are renound for being short life engines, You realy want to keep the O ring in one piece if you want a good water seal.

they are ok if you do certain mods to cope with it.
Regards;)
Carl

Grizzly

Ok

I admit i have never done a J port but is there not an issue with the Rotor housing cut outs? I did think about it a while back but i was told as soon as you cut the Water seals its very hard too 100% seal the Port on a high HP Engine.

I still would say keep the water seals but thats only My Opinion, J Ports seem a bit to OTT for me.

Grizzly

Quote from: dreI have a half bridge on my FD, never had a problem with braking tho, or shall i say a noticeable problem. Vacuum is much less on idle than a street port, due to overlap and blow by.
The Brake issue becomes More Ovious the Bigger the Bridge you do, a half Bridge will not be too bad (Proberly only Notice every so often or slightly hard pedle) a Full Bridge you may Notice it a Bit more to the degree you may get a Dodgy Moment in Trafic when your Brakes sudenly go Very Hard :)

BlitzBoy

Quote from: dreBlitz Boy - didn\'t realise u went bridge! How do you like it compared to your street ported block? Take it u kept the same turbo setup??

yeah went Half Bridge in October, the Mid range is awesome on the same turbo setup , running less boost pressure for the same power, spools up real quick feels like twins on low rpm
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

andycap

I have lost alot of vaccum at low revs on mine. Just need to keep the revs up to 2k and its fine or leave a big space from the car in front to get ready to jump on the brakes.

stuart wizy

anyone got any pics of a j port, i take it u cut through the water jacket and fill with epoxy, flat out to plate surface then cut another groove in epoxy further back, thats a guess by the way
pics please

Grizzly

Not a good pic but you get the Idea.

stuart wizy

I could fill and flat out the pink bit with epoxy, mill a slot out same width and depth as red slot mark (that  ive drawn), and open the port up to the start of the yellow line( to leave some wall strength).  then cutting the o ring so it goes round the new slot, u would have 1 join in the o ring somewhere in the new slot that has been cut because the original o oring wouldnt be long enough.
I thought about doing this a while back actually but i didnt know if the combustion ring would bend at 90deg round the slot, I will try it with a dud side plate sometime.

stuart wizy

Quote from: stuart wizyI could fill and flat out the pink bit with epoxy, mill a slot out same width and depth as red slot mark (that  ive drawn), and open the port up to the start of the yellow line( to leave some wall strength).  then cutting the o ring so it goes round the new slot, u would have 1 join in the o ring somewhere in the new slot that has been cut because the original o oring wouldnt be long enough.
I thought about doing this a while back actually but i didnt know if the combustion ring would bend at 90deg round the slot, I will try it with a dud side plate sometime.
heres the pic

Grizzly

Don\'t forget the Rotor Housings would need to be matched to the Plates.