New toy WILL play :-D

[Prof]

prof - can you check what was on the chip ??

I can tell you what the checksum is (4 hex digits), and if you can get that info from Knightsports we can confirm that it\'s good from that point of view.  I know what when I looked at the hex dump of it, there is a string \'N374\' in the first few bytes, which appears to be an identifier for the platform the chip will work on - meant for human eyes as opposed to being read by the ECU.  The fact that I can read that string does suggest the chip is ok, and certainly the  Reader/Programmer I have did not report the chip as faulty.

The rom from the N380 had a similar string with - you guessed - \'N380\'.

But it\'s a good avenue to explore.

[grinder]

hummm so we have just put a 374 chip into a 380 ecu - could that really confuse things ??

maybe we should have coded the chip with 380

[Prof]

Stu,

I think those codes are just for human consumption - not for the ECU.

The code in the Eprom is a mixture of instructions and tables (the \'maps\') that define how to respond to given inputs and include the closed loop stuff, fuel mapping tables, and the various limits that are imposed (speed, rev, pressure etc.)

Since the inputs and outputs are virtually the same for both cars, and the main processing unit is the same it stands to reason that the eprom should function in the other ECU.  The only question is related to that other large 40 pin chip - but by testing with your repaired N374, you will have covered all bases.

I still think you may have a wiring fault elsewhere in the car - need to verify your voltages to the ECU are good.

BTW - both the coils and injectors are fed from one line of the Main relay, and the ECU is from the other line, both via fuses.

[grinder]

funny you should say that :

just been on the phone to rx motors
 
ecu - couple of hundred quid - ouch
 
told him the problem and he went
 
"yeah , thats bad earth " " your headlights will go next "
 
told him that they had stopped aswell - he just laughed and said that i need to check the wiring
 
told him about the 9v at the battery - he still laughed - yeah its a bad earth
 
humm could get interesting now !!

Stu

[sadgoth]

who was that Tim, Matt or Ian? I still have a working N380 if you need it?

[grinder]

that was Matt - he reckons that you should have your car done well before XMAS aswell

LOL

Stu

[sadgoth]

REALLY??? That\'s earlier that I expected (hmmmm need to find £5k then! :eek )

[grinder]

HOW MUCH

so anyone have any idea where i should start then

Stu

[arrouk]

:Giggle the wiring loom.

sorry mate i couldn\'t resist, but i would say it would be a main one to stop so much working.

matt

[Mobilemick]

Did someone mention a bad earth....

Check around the battery, you may of left one of,

[grinder]

humm around that battery is fine - might have an hour having a look

no idea what im looking for - but i like a challenge

[Grizzly]

Every wire you find screwed to the body of the car or main earth strap to the engine undo and make sure there is good contact, even test the wire to make sure its not broken or damaged.

Make 100% sure the ecu is earthed realy well and the engine has a good earth.

[oldone]

I think somebody on this thread did mention a bad earth,but NO attention was given......hope he says I told you so !!!!!!!!!!!!:rollin :rollin :evillaugh :Giggle :2eek :chat :cool :cheers

[Prof]

I would guess - start with what you do know:
 
1) Power feed to the injectors and Coils - good - because it\'s flooding the car with heaps of pretrol and your getting a spark.  What you don\'t know is are the injectors grounding out somewherer - they should be pulled to ground through a transistor in the ECU - so if any of the wires to the inejectors looks a little gash - consider sleeving it.  You also know you have a bum spark plug,
 
2) Check the voltages on 1a and 1b on the ECU are good - you should get 12v on 1a all the time, and 12v on 1b when the key is in the IGN or Start positions.
 
3) 2i on the ECU should have 5V on it - it is used by the temp sensors (intake air, water), pressure sensor, TPS, Airflow and temp sensor unit and the MOP sensor.
 
4) The ECU (1b) and all the solenoids take their 12V from the Main relay.  If the voltage on this line is loaded because of a short it may cause the ECU voltage to fluctuate and cause the chatter on the relays / solenoids
 
5) The knock and Oxygen sensors have only a single wire connection to the ECU - but they have screened cables - this screen should be Earthed.  However, neither of these are used in starting the car.
 
6) There should be nothing plugged into the Yellow check connector near the Drivers side shock tower  - this is for priming the fuel system - it will flow fuel if there is anything connecting these wires together !!

[oldone]

Every wire you find screwed to the body of the car or main earth strap to the engine undo and make sure there is good contact, even test the wire to make sure its not broken or damaged.

Make 100% sure the ecu is earthed realy well and the engine has a good earth.

Grizz...I had that prob once..the earth cable from the battery had a \'break\' in it......interrmittant prob.Chased my tail for weeks on end.........good point made there bud,can save you weeks worth of probs :cheers :guinness