Starting Problem When Hot

Started by StuartRX7Track, September 30, 2006, 05:41:15 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 0 Guests are viewing this topic.

StuartRX7Track

When the RX is cold she starts up a treat, but when she gets warm she will not start for love nor money. Is it possible that this is the coil playing games, and if so, where can i find a replacement part?

Many thanks in advance!

Stu

grinder

humm initially i would say that its not looking good - that one sign of a bad engine matey

how many miles has it done ??

could be leaking injectors though

im sure someone will more knowledge will come along and comment - more info would help though

is it an EGI or a turbo ?

Stu


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

Grizzly

Ok, First of i\'d recomend getting a Compression test done (it will give you a good idea of the Engines Wear etc There is a way of Comp testing a Rotary so it would be best to take it to some one that knows what there doing or do a search for the DIY way)

Has it been serviced Recently? (Plugs,Plug leads Filters etc) Does it do any on the folowing...

Feel flat or Low on power
Miss or Backfire whilst driving
Use excessive fuel (like 10 or under MPG)
Use Coolant
Can you smell fuel/Exhaust gasses in the Coolant
Does it idle high or Low

If none of the above i\'d say its most likly the engine has lost some compression due to Worn apex\'s or bad Apex Springs, there is a chance of the Coil packs causing this or Plug/Leads but you have two coils per rotor so its unlikely for them both to be playing up (but its Possable)

Usaly a mildly worn engine will show signs more when its hot when all the components have expanded and the oli is thin. If it gets Bad it will start to flood its self over night and become a pain to get started from cold.

StuartRX7Track

i haven\'t got round to checking plug leads etc yet, but they are on the list of things to do, including doing a service on her.

The only thing that is concerning me apart from the not starting when hot, is that the idle when cold is not consistent, in thet it goes up and down on it\'s own, but it never stalls. After a while it levels off, and i have no idea how much pull the engine should have if it were in top notch condition, as i have only ever driven this one!

The engine has done in excess of 120k, and i have no idea about service history etc, but i\'ll try the service and see if that makes any difference.

Stu

Grizzly

I would\'nt even service it knowing that, No 1 Do a Compression test.

I\'m sorry to say that realy does sound like low Compression.

StuartRX7Track

does this mean that the engine is likely to go \'pop\' soon then?

Grizzly

#6
Not usaly no.

They just get harder to start until one day it will flood so bad that the Compression won\'t get it going, Thats when it will need a Rebuild.

But if its worn and the Comp test show this with a Low or uneven result, i\'d be Buying a Rebuild Vid and Gasket/Seal Kit and getting ready for a Rebuild.

I only say this becouse its easyer to Rebuild while its still running.

Plus if you rebuild it when the Comp is low it will feel QUICK!!! when its good again. Also don\'t be put off by People telling you a Rebuild is hard to do... Simply if you have a little knolage and can use DTI\'s etc its just Not hard.

Grizzly

Quote from: StuartRX7TrackThe engine has done in excess of 120k, and i have no idea about service history etc, but i\'ll try the service and see if that makes any difference.

Service history is always important, TBH if it had Bad History you proberly wouldn\'t have seen 120k on its first engine.

grinder

i pretty much agree with what chris says :D


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

Grizzly

#9
Do you Concur?


LOL, Just watched "Catch me if you can" where he\'s in the Hospital pretending to be a Doctor (after watching a Soap).Does all that "Do you Concur????" then when he leave the Guy\'s kicking himself that he did\'nt when the Con man is thowing up in the Bogs becouse he saw Blood. Great Fun.   :2eek

StuartRX7Track

I must clarify that the car will never be on the road again, it\'s purely for use on a track, and after purchasing the car for only £150, i\'m not really that bothered if the engine does decide to go or just not start.

It\'s purely to see if i can get on drivign on a track, and if i can, it\'ll get thrown away anyway, and i\'ll get a car that i can use in amature race meets, probably something like a clatter-bang 7.

Stu

Grizzly

ok. Whatb model is it?

Is it a turbo or Na?

StuartRX7Track

it\'s an n/a.

It\'s not in bad nick really, it\'s a bit tatty nd teh edges with some rust starting to appear, and at some point it has had a re-spray from silver to red.