!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Overheating!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Grizzly]

This is getting confusing. I have re read this and if you have the fans on all the time and are seeing Physical evidence of overheating (hard pipes or steam) its going to be a bit more than a gauge.

If the gauge is just showing its hot but there is no steam or Bubbling you have a dodgy Gauge/Sensor??

[Grizzly]

EDIT: THE BROWN WATER IS SOMETHING IN THE ENGINE CAUSING IT THE RUST! WHEN I DRAINED THE SYSTEM INTO A BUCKET IT WAS BROWN...THE NEXT DAY IT HAD SETTLED AT THE BTM AND I REALISED IT WAS RUST!!!!!

Did you have Antifreeze in it? I ask because Rust does\'nt start in an engine overnight and it won\'t start at all with Corrosion inhibitors in the Antifreeze. If you get Brown water out of it something Steel is rusting (water pump, Plate etc)

Also for how long has it had no Antifreeze? could this have been caused last winter and only shown its face when the weather got warmer? If so you may be looking for a Crack.

[shaunwil]

This may sound like a crazy question but how hard is it to swap between degC and degF on the pfc

Would have to agree on the dodgy sensor and you need to get a temp gauge in the water. Can you measure the temp of the coolant at the filler neck, the sensor isn\'t too far away from there.

Surely if your mate had his hand over the filler neck until it said 70deg he would have scalded his hand ?? He wouldn\'t have been able to hold his hand on 70 deg water.

Shaun

[shaunwil]

Engine is only just over 12 months old and its only recent hes swapped the anifreeze out.

Shaun

[Grizzly]

Well has it had Antifreeze in it from day 1?

Anyone knows you DONT get Rust in a car that has Antifreeze in.

This is Not a Sensor!!! you have too many Symptoms for it to just be reading high.

[Grizzly]

Surely if your mate had his hand over the filler neck until it said 70deg he would have scalded his hand ?? He wouldn\'t have been able to hold his hand on 70 deg water.

Is this with the cap on?? Becouse!!!
In theory Yes you would get Burnt, But in Practice there is an Inch gap between the Cap and the 70deg water unless its over pressurized and is blowing water at out this point it (in that case the cap would be VERY!! Hot), Don\'t get me wrong the Cap would be quite hot but not 70deg.

And if not i don\'t belive it. Becouse No motor (not even a Boinger) runs at a temp that you would be able to withstand.

[Grizzly]

Engine is only just over 12 months old

Yep but how old are the Plates in the Motor??

Who\'s too say that when the Plates where checked for Damage/Coolant Grove Cracks that one was\'nt missed? Things like this don\'t show up realy until it\'s warm and dry.

It may have be checked at the time but if its not had Antifreeze in ?

Rust usaly Is not a Good sign.

Did it drop its water when you Bumped it?

[Rixio]

Iv not been running antifreeze since this started. Because i kept filling up with it and it kept shooting back out.

I know it overheated within 3 mins when i put the new stock rad on. It warmed up to 71\'c and sat there took it for a drive 1/8 mile and it shot up to 101\'c. Re-filled etc after it cooled and it took 3 mins whilst standing to get from 67\'c to 111\'c, it started spewing coolant from 80\'c out of the expansion so we thought must just be leveling out because it stopped just before the car shot up past 90\'c

The water pump had serious rust on it when i took it out last week. Along with the Feed temp sensor which it bust. All the spigots for the coolant hoses were rusting. If the car is standing i always drain the water as much as i can so it doesnt rust. When i flush it and re-fill i make sure the water is clear before connecting everything again.

It was cold when i fired it up when my mate had his hand over the cap so the thermostat hadnt opened yet therefore wasnt hot where his hand was.

Im reading temps from the PFC Commander before this back when it started i was reading them from the stock gauge cluster.

The coolant buzzer is now constantly on even though we earthed it to the battery & to the body??

I think that covers all the points raised?:Hammer

[Grizzly]

Ok so its Defo not a Sensor then? It atualy Overheats!!! not shows hot on the gauges.

You REALY!! need to Test the Water seals. If not you will be chasing you tall for a Long time, that should have been NO.1 on the list a Compression test just does\'nt tell you anything about the Water seals.

[Rixio]

Where can i get it done...

[Rixio]

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system.htm

Just been reading through this...what would cause the AST not to suck water back into the engine bay?

[Grizzly]

Where can i get it done...

Well the Guy who built it would be a Start. He\'s not that far away and this is Oviously some thing thats not Performance related (Apex seal det etc)

He does kind of Know his stuff.

[Grizzly]

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system.htm

Just been reading through this...what would cause the AST not to suck water back into the engine bay?

??

The AST is suposed to remove the Air Bubbles from the Coolant The level will drop if the Level in the Engine Low?

Or do you mean what would stop the AST droping Coolant out the Overflow? That would be the Cap.

[Andy_k]

Sorry i didnt read the losing coolant bit.

With all the bits you\'ve replaced i\'d definately say take it back to the engine builder.

The single black wire sensor will not work if the wire is earthed.(Will cause the constant buzzing)

[Rixio]

Took it to get pressure tested and as usual the guy didnt have a clue what he was talking about...o yeh your head gasket\'s gone mate (Insert w@nker here) Er ok if its not that then you\'l have to leave it here for a few days and let me check it out...what a jackass

They didnt have the correct size for the tester so im gona take it to another place tmrw, hopefully they have one that fits!