New toy WILL play :-D

[grinder]

ok then - the update

1 - plugs are out ( and dying !! LOL )
2 - had to remove all the plug wire holders to do it - once i did that it was a 10 min job
3 - remove the EGI fuse
4 - got the better half to crank the car over
5 - and NO clicking of selanoids - so this is (1) is been on charge for 2 days (2) i pulled the egi fuse out ??
6 - cranked over nice and happy - and WOW how much fuel comes out - left fags in the garage - thank god !! LOL
7 - engine now turns by hand ( although very hard )
8 - now waiting till tommorrow to rebuild and fire her up
9 - gonna check with the EGI fuse back in aswell to see if all the selanoids go mad
10 - removed battery aswell - see if the ECU will reset - there is no harm in trying

will keep you all posted

Stu

[kev-yorks]

Stick with it Stu you\'ll get there.
Kevin

[grinder]

im sure i will kev

and i know all the people on MRC are here to lend a hand

Stu

[antnicuk]

oh damn, and there was me getting all excited thinking you would get it started.....

its good to leave it with the plugs out over night, it will help with getting rid of the fuel,  before you go to work in the morning, move the engine around a 3rd, so it dries some more of the chambers before you put it back together tomorrow

[Grizzly]

Stu, Auto\'s always run Rich on start up which will not help.

Can\'t you swap the plugs with your other T2? But before you do that take the plugs out and spin it over for as long as poss with the egi out.

I would not recomend putting Oil in becouse it will add a possabliity of Fouling the Plugs to the Mix.

The other thing i tend to do is put the Plugs back in hot so it dries out the Plug holes and they also stand more of a chance when the Apex goes over them and pushes the fuel into the Plug.

And also if you use Jump leads conect the earth to the Engine rather than the battery, this will help if you do have a Dodgy earth strap (Just make sure its a good conection)

Have you checked to see what kind of spark there is?

[Grizzly]

O yeh and if you do give up tonight leave the plugs out

[grinder]

right ...

1 - not checked for a spark
2 - plugs are in the garage at the mo - will give them the heat treatment tomorrow - not sure about putting them in hot - that could be very arkward
3 - will try and turn it over before i go to work ( by hand )
4 - taking my plugs out the TII - dont really want to do that to be honest
5 - i cant jump the car - cant get another car near it
6 - chambers are air drying at the mo
7 - looks to be a lot of fuel in the plug hole - so hoping that will dry aswell

just out of common interest - what causes them to flood

is there a procedure to stop this ?

when i rebuild tomorrow - i will put it all back in - but not put the leads in the little holders just incase it wont work - if it does then i will put all back the way i found it

any more thoughts/ideas are welcomed

Stu

[Mobilemick]

"" 1 - plugs are out ( and dying !! LOL ) ""

Sorry to hear about your plugs,  we will pray for them tonight  

I got some 30ft jump leads,  gis a shout if ya wanna i`ll bring em over :0

Mick

[grinder]

ha ha ha now thats funny - but i wont change it as people wont understand

im hoping it will fire of it own accord - but thanks for the offer matey - i might have to take you up on it

Stu

[Grizzly]

"2 - plugs are in the garage at the mo - will give them the heat treatment tomorrow - not sure about putting them in hot - that could be very arkward"

You big Girl

"4 - taking my plugs out the TII - dont really want to do that to be honest"

Or run your other T2 on the Flooded plugs then put them back in the Vert.

"6 - chambers are air drying at the mo"

You\'d be best turning it 120 before you go to work then another bath can dry out too.

"7 - looks to be a lot of fuel in the plug hole - so hoping that will dry aswell"

There is serious amounts of fuel in there, When i took my Fd apart there was a Cup full of fuel that came out of the Exhaust port when i took the Turbo\'s off.

"just out of common interest - what causes them to flood "

An auto needs more fuel on Cold start to idle properly (more load on the engine) so if its turned off early/Bit low on Comp/Leaking injector or Needs a Service you\'ll flood it.

"is there a procedure to stop this ?"

Make sure its Hot and well of Cold start before you turn off, i\'ve also heard people fitting a switch to the Fuel pump so you can turn the Pump off and effectivly Run it out of Fuel before you turn off (but i don\'t like the idea of that one)

"when i rebuild tomorrow - i will put it all back in - but not put the leads in the little holders just incase it wont work - if it does then i will put all back the way i found it"

TBH i would have said toe it round the Block by now but being an Auto you can\'t.

I have heard of people Unplugging the Fuel pump and spraying Easystart into the Inlet to get it to fire (that seems to be quite common as you can leave the EGI in) That way you don\'t add more fuel each time the Bath crosses the Inlet and it should fire on whats already there.

But i\'d check the spark etc before any of this becouse this may still be a Damp conection etc causing no spark.

[grinder]

cheers chris

i turned the engine by hand this morning - so that SHOULD help

i will try and check the spark tonight aswell - that could be interesting i suppose

just out of interest ( again ) - when you de-flood it and you crank with no EGI fuse in - how long should you actually crank it for - i think i only did it twice for about 2 seconds each - is this enough - or do you need to do it for a while ( this could add another day onto the procedings if i did it wrong )

i dont think there are any compression issues as its only done 5K on a rebuild/new engine - so it should be ok

cheers chaps

stu

[grinder]

found a good unflooding procedure : http://www.rx7.com/tech/unflood-fc.html

although reading this - sounds like i havent cranked it for long enough and i didnt floor it either

2 choices now

1 - put it back together and try it
2 - crank it some more and leave it till thursday

Hummm now thats a choice

[grinder]

just keep finding more info D:

Rotary Engine Flooding Prevention


Any trip that is too short for the engine to reach normal operating temperature (needle in middle of temperature gauge indicates normal temperature) should follow these steps to prevent flooding of the engine.

    * With the engine already running,
    * Raise the engine speed to 3000 RPM for 10 seconds
    * Return to idle
    * Turn off engine

The above are instructions to prevent flooding as described in your Mazda Owner’s Manual. We have been using a slightly different method that does not require holding engine speed at 3000RPM for an extended period of time. Here are the instructions:

    * With engine already running,
    * Raise the engine speed to 3000RPM
    * Holding the engine speed at 3000RPM, turn the ignition key to the “off” position,
    * While simultaneously depressing the gas pedal all the way down.
    * After the engine has completely wound down, release the gas pedal.

[antnicuk]

Stu,
turn it for a good 20 - 30 seconds, at least 3 - 4 times.  It will be worth getting another battery to jump off.
  You need to do it until you stop getting vapour out of the holes.
As chris says, i wouldnt put any oil in it.

[grinder]

oh thats not good - if i do that tonight - can i try and start it tonight - or will it need to dry out for another 24hrs

and the battery is fully charged - so it should be OK.. he says