New toy WILL play :-D

Started by grinder, September 18, 2006, 10:04:21 PM

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grinder

Hiya chaps

got the car home ( again thanks to Kev )

put the battery on charge and this is where the probs begin

1 - battery been on charge for 24 hrs ( min )
2 - put the key in the ignition , turn all the dash lights on
3 - its beeps (2 pause 2 pause 2 pause stop .. had a check on this and cant find much )
4 - and there are loads of selanoids clicking
5 - turn the car off
6 - selanoids still click but once the turbo timer hits 0 they stop
7 - turn ignition back on
8 - clicking starts again
9 - turn off and switch off turbo timer
10 - turn it back on - loads of clicking
11 - crank car - its very slow at this and wont fire - but the clicking stops
12 - try this a few times and its points 10 and 11 all the time
13 - started to remove the plugs - they are SOOOOOOOOOOOOO wet - so defo flooded :(

so any one got any ideas ??

and the plugs - what a pain to remove - got the back out no probs ( although both marked 9EQ T - so both trailing ones ??? )

need to get the fronts out next - and thats a nightmare - all the plug wires are stopping the ratchet going round

so that the state of play and only 2 main questions

1 - why are 3/4 selanoids going mad
2 - how the hell do you get the front plugs out

stumbling at the first hurdle - not impressed !! LOL :D :D :D

Stu


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
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Prof

1 - battery been on charge for 24 hrs ( min )
2 - put the key in the ignition , turn all the dash lights on
3 - its beeps (2 pause 2 pause 2 pause stop .. had a check on this and cant find much )   this sounds like the lights on reminder buzzer
 
 
4 - and there are loads of selanoids clicking   I have clicking solenoid but only before cranking engine - could be electrical short or faulty ECU
 
 
5 - turn the car off
6 - selanoids still click but once the turbo timer hits 0 they stop
7 - turn ignition back on
8 - clicking starts again
9 - turn off and switch off turbo timer
10 - turn it back on - loads of clicking
11 - crank car - its very slow at this and wont fire - but the clicking stops  Not enough juice in your battery - can you jump off anothe one as well?
12 - try this a few times and its points 10 and 11 all the time
13 - started to remove the plugs - they are SOOOOOOOOOOOOO wet - so defo flooded :(
Now you have to do the unflood - remove bottom plugs, remove EGI fuse and crank the engne over a few dozen times - not smoking near engine bay, as raw fuel will slosh out of plug holes - then clean up plugs, squirt of some oil into the plug hole to lube the now fuel cleaned rotor housings, and put everything back.
 
I wouldn\'t try starting it again until you do the following:
 
1) Charge or replace the battery - I think your one is toast :( - voltage should be about 12-13V if it\'s healthy - lower than 11 and it\'s naff
 
2) Take the carpet up - unplug the ECU and plug it back in again to reseat the connectors
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


Mobilemick

Sounds like you need a new battery,  or you left a earth wire off the battery,  

Mick

grinder

1 - battery is 2 weeks old - so should be ok
2 - clicking stops once you crank it
3 - battery voltage looks OK - its showing 12v on the Turbo timer - but bouces around with the selanoids clicking
4 - the beeping - humm could be the lights - but then again the switch doesnt work - so that could be a cause - have a spare switch in the garage - i could always unplug it as the dash is out anyways
5 - hummm reset the ECU - there is a way to do this - just not sure how ?
6 - cant jump the car as its nose in the drive and the first car on there - unless you can get 15ft jump leads !! LOL - might borrow one of them jump start battery things - chappy at work has one
7 - gonna be arkward to do the ECU bit - need to push the car onto the front of the drive really - sounds like weekend work :D :D

the plugs are SOOOOOOOOOO arkward to get out - like i said got the back 2 out and the are drenched in fuel - just need to get the fronts out

what oil can i squirt in - just normal engine oil ... does it need a lot ??

humm looks like i will be playing again tonight with it

once it runs - i can then have a real good look round it to see what else needs doing :D

keep up the good idea\'s though - they are all welcomed :D :D

Stu


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

Prof

ECU will reset as soon as the battery is taken off.  Just leave it disconnected for more than about 10 secs and the jobs done.

Oil - I just squirt a bit of standard mineral in there.  You don\'t need much, it\'s just there to replace the oil that the petrol will have washed away when it was flooded.  When I did mine once, there was about 1/2 pt of petrol in the engine - went everywhere.  Once you put the oil in, turn the engine 120 degrees - 1/3 rd round and repeat that again twice - that will oil up each chamber - then you\'re ready to try starting it again.

Really does sound like you have an earthing problem or electrical short.  I have a spare TII ecu if you need one.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


robedwards99

The beeping wouldn\'t be a seatbelt warning beeper as on an FD??

RX7... The Deep Pocket Rocket...

grinder

the beeping could be - didnt think of that ?!??!

prof - how did you turn the engine 1/3 ?? i cant even turn this one over ( when i had the white one - you could turn the engine by pulling on the power steering belt - with this one - not a cat in hells chance )

hummmm i will try and stop thinking the worse at this point !! LOL

Stu


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

Prof

I moved it with the pulleys - if your\'s doesn\'t move then that might explain why it\'s cranking so slowly - it must be hellish tight somewhere or in need of lube.

It should crank pretty fast on the starter - if it doesn\'t, maybe the bearings have gone all sticky - how long was it sat ?
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


sadgoth

I also have a spare ECU but mine (and I suspect Prof\'s) is a series V not series IV?

The front plugs are a pig to get out, you need to muve as much as you can out of way then just patience! I use a 1/2 inch drive with a plug socket as it is slightly slimmer than a normal plug spanner, but you can still only get about 1/8 of a turn each time so it is just a long process, putting the buggers back in is equally awkward! Once you get used to it it isn\'t so bad. Also when you\'ve got shot of the air pump and the TMIC it is a lot easier!

I\'d take a second battery out of another car and use that as a way of jumping so then you have two batteries running in tandem. Sounds like you may have a short somewhere though if you have full charge in the battery and still aren\'t getting the engine to crank over at speed (but it could be jus VERY flooded!

When you turn the engine over w/out the plugs in remember to take out the fuse for the EGI or you\'ll just empty the fuel tank all over the drive!
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D

sadgoth

Quote from: ProfI moved it with the pulleys - if your\'s doesn\'t move then that might explain why it\'s cranking so slowly - it must be hellish tight somewhere or in need of lube.

It should crank pretty fast on the starter - if it doesn\'t, maybe the bearings have gone all sticky - how long was it sat ?


I thought that, may just need some lube as Prof said, on the 12a in the Gen 1 we had to use gearbox oil to get the rotors spinning freely (heavier than normal engine oil) smokes like an absolute Beagle but did the trick.:Hammer
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D

sadgoth

QuoteI also have a spare ECU but mine (and I suspect Prof\'s) is a series V not series IV?


Ignore me, I\'m getting my threads mixed up which tends to destroy any good fashion statement :Thumbsup!
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D

grinder

nice one mark !!! - you should go back to bed !!

once the plugs are out - i will get some oil in there - just to lube it up slightly

this could be the reason for slow cranking

i was told that it was started 6 weeks ago ish and it ran fine

suddenly it wont and there is lots of clicking ??

so - its been stood for 6 weeks - i have left mine longer than this with no probs

if it wasnt started - then it might have been sat for 12 months :(

need to get the plugs out and some oil in - and then trace the relay situation

fun times ahead NOT - i should really start buying cars that start before handing over money !! ha ha ha

stu


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

Prof

Arh - come on - you got a bargain and you know it - just needs a bit of work and some TLC.

Just hang in there - it\'ll be worth it once it\'s going.

Oh - and just to give you incentive - some parts arived today - top hose thermostat, and most of my new Inlet ducting for replacement of that crazy 90/90 bendy thing.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


grinder

ohhhhh inlet ducting - very nice - again matey - lots of write ups and pics :D

the car - gonna get the plugs out tonight and try and work out what is clicking and where - then ask lots of questions on here :D

Stu


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle

sadgoth

am awake now!

good luck with that one! If it has been stood flooded for 6 weeks, the oil will have been cleaned off the rotors and seals making it more difficult to turn without the lube. Well it\'s a theory - but I think it\'s a sound one!
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D