Heater controls question and a misfire

[lanciachris]

More newbie questions -

The heater on my car blows slightly warm air even when set to cold. If i set it to hot the air gets a lot warmer - is this possibly an electrical problem or will it be down to the linkages somewhere?

Unrelated - The car has a bit of a misfire probably down to some useless universal plug leads that are fitted (magnecor ones being ordered). On the overrun I can get the occasional loud bang from the exhaust (say coasting down a long hill). Is this a result of the misfire causing incomplete combustion and the unburnt fuel igniting in the exhaust, or something else?

When not on the gas heading downhill I can feel a very slight kind of \'bucking\' as if a series of explosions were happening in the exhaust, which would make sense with the misfire, but i dont understand why I would feel that through the drivetrain. I understand the rotary engine has less inertia than a conventional one and perhaps this could explain it if airflow from these detonations are returning to the rotor chamber

[g.miller]

thought some one with more tech. knowhow than me would have replyed by now but will give you my thoughts :-:Snoring

the heater will not cool the air lower than the out side temp. not unless you have aircon. so on a warm day it will feel warm???

the T11\'s i have all burble a bit when taking my foot off the throtle but no bangs.
my guess is that its running too rich yes def. too rich!




















 [ wow now lets wait for the correct answer from some who  knows]:2Confused Grant

[lanciachris]

Well thanks for the reply

From reading on wikipedia it seems that rotarys actually do incomplete combustion by design! this was a big surprise to me...

I guess its just these dodgy leads in the ignition system and maybe something on the air flow meter. This weekend im going to be giving the intake system the carb cleaner treatment and checking and replacing dizzy cap / rotor arm / leads as needed.

Regarding the heater, we are talking warmer than outside air i guess ill rip the controls out this weekend and find out whats going on there as well

I\'ll get this car running and behaving right soon enough

[lanciachris]

Playing around at weekend revealed a few things - the contacts to the fuel injectors were lovely and green from oxidised copper, so cleaned them up, but the ignition system was a right state

Universal \'hotwires\' leads, and the dizzy cap and rotor arm both extremely worn. Trying to get hold of some new ones now, local motor factors were unsurprisingly unable to help

[grinder]

spark plug wires - i tried about 12 sets from different places

ended up going to WGT for some and they were just short of £70 i think

i can prob get you a set for about $50 to your door if you are interested - i have a link for an american company who do them - and you can even choose the colour you want !!

Stu

[lanciachris]

Im pretty confident that the ones ive got on the way should do the trick - I had a set on my old v12 jag xjs and they were fantastic - cost £50 for the set for the rx7

http://www.magnecor.co.uk/

I phoned a mazda dealer about the dizzy cap and rotor arm.. they were great in trying to help, but blimey - £50 for a dizzy cap, £90 for a rotor arm! After i picked myself up from the floor i told em id investigate alternatives first.

RX motors - both for £40

[lanciachris]

Small update and another question.

I have fitted the new rotor arm and dizzy cap which has made a small improvement, but it still wont idle. Still waiting on the HT leads.

Just trying to figure out how much danger im in driving the car at the moment by figuring how much fuel is not actually being burnt - how many miles should i get out of a properly working egi in mixed driving?