What I want from my first RX-7

[andysmee]

For those of you who have been on the forum for a while, or those of you who have an RX-7, I know these posts are always tedious but for those of you with a car to sell you might want to read...

I\'ve spent the last few years as a Peugeot 406 Coupé enthusiast (and I have no regrets :p ) and I\'ve modified the car extensively and done a lot of track days with it...but you all know that they are basically not very quick even with a nice V6 lump under the bonnet...the thing is, they look gorgeous so up until now I have been very happy with it...

But now I need something seriously quick, good looking and relatively inexpensive to buy. If I wasn\'t looking at RX-7s I would be looking for a V8 - probably a Monaro VXR (but I haven\'t got the cash for it!) and failing all that I would be buying an Audi smoker :2eek

So, from my extensive research I have decided on a RX-7, in spite of the high cost of ownership, I am determined to find a good one and look after it.

My ideal RX-7 is a 1995-1996 FD3 RB Bathhurst X (so many different ways people state this model) with a Manual box with leather interior and all mod cons, and if modified, with a re-amemiya kit.

More realistically I am looking for a 1994-1996 Type R in Black or Silver with Manual box, leather interior (not sure this is possible) and preferably standard un-modified.

My budget is a bit complicated, I have £6k waiting now with a possible £2k-£3k available in a couple of months (or now by taking a loan). Total willing to spend ~£9k.

My question is one that many others have, and will continue to, ask. Should I spend £6k on a 94-96 car with an engine that has done most of its miles with a view that I will get it rebuilt in three months time? or should I take out a loan to spend £9k on a 94-96 which has just been rebuilt? or finally should I spend £6k on a 92-93 car which has just been rebuilt and keep the extra cash for servicing?

My views on modifying are that I have been there and pretty much done that...this will be my day-to-day car so I am old enough to want a comfortable ride, a/c, decent stereo and standard look. I don\'t like snow plough kits - but I do like nice resprays.

I have been looking around on the net in the last couple of days and found this one http://atsearch.autotrader.co.uk/www/dealerservices_photoad.asp?did=12552&pageid=1&id=200632245553712 but on querying the dealer they do not have a service history to back up the age of the engine although they assure me it has had a rebuild (they can\'t tell me how many miles ago or who did it!). Unfortunately it is a fair trek to Hertford to take a look so I am taking your advice and not getting hooked on it!

Any advice is always appreciated (even if it seems obvious to those of you who have learnt the lessons the hard way)

Cheers

Andy

[iaint]

If someone can\'t supply information about a rebuild (dates, receipts and who did the work) then it counts for nothing..!

You\'d be better off either buying a known car from an enthusiast (although we tend to value our cars quite high compared with autotrader) or make sure anything you do buy is thoroughly checked over by a rotary specialist.

I\'d rather buy a \'92 car for 8k with a stack of receipts then a \'96 for 6k with no history.  This is from experience of 3 years ownership and an A4 lever arch file full of receipts

[kev-yorks]

The other option is to buy a cheaper car with a tired engine and work the rebuild budget into your budget. That way your getting a rebuilt engine to your porting specs and you know you should be safe for a good few years.
Kevin

[ro284]

Agree with Iain, i bought mine knowing it needed a rebuild, so that i knew i could get it done with, and have had the most reliable car iv\'e ever had for the last 2 years, because these cars are over 12 years old. it,s very often little to do with the mileage the car has done, but how it\'s been looked after in that time, which you will never know, in my case not enough inhibitor in the coolant! which caused corrosion which led to water loss/overheating which killed it,
As it\'s been mentioned, what is the \'Face lift\' bit that is mentioned in that ad please,
Bob

[sadgoth]

I\'m guessing the facelift would be the later spec lights and green dial lighting. Also the 96 cars and later had the 16bit ECU (not that it makes much difference if you change for an A\'Pexi PFC (advisable as the car will have been set up for Jap fuel)

[robedwards99]

If you look around you should fairly easily be able to pick up a \'95 car with a rebuild for £7k.

[John Yorke]

Reading your post carefully it would appear you are looking for a stock Bathurst, as these are as rare as hens teeth I would be giving this car a very close look. You have clearly researched the car you want and this seems to fit the bill. As Iain has already stated no proof of work carried out would lead me to believe that it has not been done.
I would maybe approach the garage and offer them a deal, as they have no evidence of work carried out I would ask them to have the car checked out by a reputable rotary specialist [insist on this or nominate your own - have a look for the closest one on this forum] and insist on a propper compression test, the milage would indicate the turbos would have seen better days so I would be looking to make sure both are working as they should do.
I would then be negotiating the price according to what has been found after the test.
HTH

[andysmee]

Thanks for your replies...the plot thickens...

I went to see the Bathurst today - after all, if they are like hen\'s teeth, what\'s an hour\'s drive?! The car is in good nick but given the lack of documentation I was never going to be buying it. It was imported last October 2005 and at about 125200 km had its MOT and has done about 133750 km now. The usual visible checks - slight smoke at start up which died away after about a minute, lumpy idle with slight popping at about 1200 rpm - that improved after the car ran. Coolant I couldn\'t check (not sure where the filler is), oil was clear on the dipstick.

When driving the car it pulled nicely (although I can\'t tell exactly how quick it should be). After pulling in for some petrol the car re-started fine. Then when driving back I put my foot down and felt both turbos kick in sequence as expected running up to the redline without falter.

The thing is, I could not find any identifying mark to substantiate the claim that it is a Bathurst. Can anyone tell me how I should be able to tell?

It definitely had twin oil coolers (visible in the intakes), it is a 2+2configuration with red leather throughout, a/c, central locking, elec windows etc. It certainly had hard suspension and the wheels - although gold - have the standard tyre sizes on them. Under the bonnet there was no sign of any mods. The rear of the car has a low wing and a efini badge below the RX-7

[robedwards99]

Look inside the drivers door jamb and there should be a sticker.. mine said Type R 2 before it fell off.

[andysmee]

I looked everywhere in the door frame/jamb both on the drivers side and passenger side so it sounds like it\'s fallen off. I could do a VIN search if someone knows where to do it. The only sticker on the drivers side was a tyre pressure guide showing 16 inch (i think) and 17 inch wheels

[sadgoth]

the red leather is normally an indicator, I think all bathursts came with red leather

[andysmee]

As it\'s been mentioned, what is the \'Face lift\' bit that is mentioned in that ad please,
Bob

BTW The Bathurst X that I looked at has orange dials. It does have projector fogs and by then the wing had changed shape, had a rear wiper and has the red leather so I am 90% sure that it is the right model

I wouldn\'t say it is a facelift model unless he simply means it is a 3rd gen not a 1st or 2nd

[andysmee]

Well, this morning I have phoned up about the Bathurst I test-drove last week and the owner is now back. He says that it is on its original engine at 63,000 with no documentation to show history from Japan.

But, here\'s where it gets strange, he absolutely insists that the engine won\'t need rebuilding as it is an R2 and the engines in the R2 are like the RX-8 and don\'t need rebuilding. He can\'t see any point in buying a car where you have to replace the engine every 60,000 miles.

Any comments..please help!?

[efiniste]

He\'s full of sh1t. Walk away.

[John Yorke]

Sorry to rain on his parade:3Confused The engine in ALL gen 3 cars is the
13b REW, the engine in the \'8\' is totaly different in as much as the ports are totaly different, it is a much higher compression and it only produces just over 200bhp compared to the \'7\' giving 255 / 265 / 280.
No one is certain how long the 8 will last between re-builds but as there is much less stress on it compared to the 7 I would imagine well into 100k mark.
If you are keen on this car I would still strongly recommend a compression test by a reputable rotary specialist, at least it tell you the condition of the engine and quite frankly any \'re-build\' without paperwork is in my eyes should be considered as not being re-built. There are loads of claimed re-built cars out there at the moment and without docs I would treat them as non - rebuilds.