13b Getting Hot!!

Started by mpk490p, July 18, 2006, 05:06:30 PM

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mpk490p

Quote from: drutinhowzit :)

hope i read wrong but no oil radiator ?
big no no running no oil cooler on a rotary engine, best to use a series 1 or 2 if under radiator or a series 4/5, series 3 ones under the oil filter no good for mod engines :)

2 cents have you za thermostat in it ? if not you need to put one back in or block off the big hole in the waterpump housing :) or it will run hot and cause air bubbles :)

ps car looks cool :) well done :)

later
glen
The series 3 drop the oil rad i have fins under the oil filter to cool it and the water rad was upgraded, the thermostat should be fine but it will be the next thing to check after the mesh has come off and if there\'s no improvment

Thanks
Mark

drutin

howzit :)

my 2 cents if its a decent motor i would use the oil cooler not the small water/oil cooler under the oil filter like on the series 3

but depends how you drive :) for me i use the normal series 1/2 type :)

ie http://www.rotorworks.co.nz/MVI_2652.AVI (38.4MB)

later
whatever spins your wheels:)

but if it aint a rotor it aint a motor :)

http://www.rotorworks.co.nz/ireland

oldone

Oil cooling is major factor in the life of a ROTARY,if it is neglected then unfortunately the motor will suffer failures.............:yes.I was driving at midday today,town and freeway,and again my temps never went beyond 85degC..:)

mpk490p

i will have a word with pip at WGT i used to have a oil coller aswell but i sold it (it was from another rex i had)
Mark

MikeLMR

I\'ve got a 2nd gen on for my 323, they have a thermostat and pressure bypass thingy all built in. Simple to fit as well as they come with some sensible looking brackets + I think the 2nd gen ones are less suceptable to the cracking problems that the early ones suffer around the fittings.

I had a spare but its now going on a hillman imp with a K series lump in the back :Giggle

mattmaclennan

Don\'t forget ducting... very important. This is a drawing of a VERY good cooling system for a light aircraft, something similar in your car would be a good idea with such a small air inlet. Good to see it in the flesh at the Pod the other week, top job

mpk490p

Thanks, i was up there with my younger brother so unfortunatly i didnt spend much time with the car, will be at Peterborough though for the 2 days so i might get everyone\'s ideas together there (before we start drinking other wish it will have a blower on it or something!!!)
Thanks
Mark

mpk490p

Found a 12" electric fan on flebay near me so i might go for that in front of the rad and just hook it up to a switch, do you think that will pull enough air in?
Thanks
Mark

mattmaclennan

may well do.. use fat wires and a good relay

mpk490p

Quote from: drutinhowzit :)

my 2 cents if its a decent motor i would use the oil cooler not the small water/oil cooler under the oil filter like on the series 3

but depends how you drive :) for me i use the normal series 1/2 type :)

ie http://www.rotorworks.co.nz/MVI_2652.AVI (38.4MB)

later

That looks like Don giving it big beans!!
Mark

MikeLMR

if its getting hot sat at 80mph I doubt a fan is going to make much difference ? Those mechanical fans shift lots of air anyway. Only real reason to ditch one is

1. Space
2. less parasitic losses as when an electric fan is off its totally off, a viscous fan has some drag even when uncoupled (not as much as some make out though)
3. The viscous fan is broken
4. You want to control the point at which the fan kicks in more accurately. The viscous ones seem like they would be a bit hit and miss as to when the engage to me

mpk490p

Quote from: MikeLMRif its getting hot sat at 80mph I doubt a fan is going to make much difference ? Those mechanical fans shift lots of air anyway. Only real reason to ditch one is

1. Space
2. less parasitic losses as when an electric fan is off its totally off, a viscous fan has some drag even when uncoupled (not as much as some make out though)
3. The viscous fan is broken
4. You want to control the point at which the fan kicks in more accurately. The viscous ones seem like they would be a bit hit and miss as to when the engage to me
to be honest Mike i was going to place the electric fan infront of the rad and leave the Viscous where it is (would that work?)
mark

antnicuk

Quote from: MikeLMRif its getting hot sat at 80mph I doubt a fan is going to make much difference ? Those mechanical fans shift lots of air anyway. Only real reason to ditch one is


4. You want to control the point at which the fan kicks in more accurately. The viscous ones seem like they would be a bit hit and miss as to when the engage to me

I initially put a 16inch 3200 cfm electric fan on mine an the temps were really erratic,  as they were with my FD.  I put the stock fan on my FC and the temps are really steady, they very rarely move on the Power FC and sit between 34 and 37 what ever the weather.

I agree with the mesh idea, no point putting an electric fan on, the fan is only there to push air through when the car is stationary. If its getting hot at speed, then its the air flow.   That is quite a small vent in your bumper
400 BHP - 650 KG\'s = 616 BHP Per Ton of Rotary Power

That\'s the way to do it! :Thumbsup!


MikeLMR

maybe its steadier with a viscous fan as its not an on/off thing, they are always moving a little air ... not sure how they lockup ? but being a fluid clutch I guess its quite progressive ?

clive

As Mike says at 80MPH an electric fan is doing NOTHING  as the air flow has long taken over by then

You may be interested to know that at 80MPH  the temp WILL rise on a third gen that has had its undertray removed so I would ask the question "have you left of any bits of tin from under the front of the engine bay that could have been directing air"

Sorry can\'t remember off the top of my head the tin wear under the front of a Gen 1 but I think there is some ?
All the best Clive