just blew up my rebuilt engine!!

[A7NTY]

Just a little point here about engine warranty here.

Is there a fault with the engine causing its failure, or is it a fault with the fueling /ignition causing failure?

If something on the engine breaks then ofcourse it would be prepared but if its not got anything to do with the part that has been repaired itself how on earth can you expect that to be covered under warranty. Have you even allowed RX motors to inspect the car?

I will add that when RX Motors built my engine, it suffered a small problem after I had run it at over 180mph on several occasions, Tim very kindly identified and repaired the engine for us at no charge to ourselves, I made no complaints to him, didnt get in a tif, we just talked about it like gentleman and got it sorted out, infact I had to barely talk to the guy as I knew it was in capable hands. Perhaps there is something to learn here kids.
I dont talk to people that work on my car like im at war with them, I dont treat them like tw@ts, if you want people to be cooperative then theres my advice.

I dont know the specifics on this case but im just trying to make a point to all you keyboard warriors out there with a god complex.

In my experience RX Motors and RE:Worx are the two best garages I have ever dealt with, they are friendly an helpful, and great fun beyond the call of duty.

[iaint]

i want a right hand drive car that isnt going to pop at the first sign of trouble
the combo of all of the above  is poss all u need is the v8 to complete the picture.the ls1 is a very very reliable engine plus u get all the good bits of the rx7 as the v8 weighs the same and weight dist is the same

Two points.

1) Do you know for a fact that the wieght difference is negligible?  Much of the weight of the LS1 is quite high up compared to the rotary (which is very compact by comparison).  Weight (which from the manufacturers figures is greater than the 13b) will be higher and further forward.

2) You can have 3 rebuilds on the rotary for the cost of the LS1 conversion and have pocket change to run it for a few years.

a lot of people me included buy the rx7 thinking once rebuilt they have a reliable engine

Dont 17k miles on my rebuild (came over from Japan with dead water seals from neglect).  It\'s been abused thoroughly and m,istreated badly on occasion (95C intake temps in 5th gear recently comes to mind).  It\'s been absolutely bulletproof.  I don\'t know many piston engines, LS1 included that could cope better.

I like the LS sersies of engines, theyr\'e very good at what they do and there\'s no doubt that they produce 400bhp and elephant like torque with little stress but it\'s not the be-all and end-all you seem to think it is.

[A7NTY]

An FD with a V8 is like a thai lady boy.... looks like an RX7 but its not quite the same

My engine has been very reliable considering the power it makes, do you really think any sports car engine is bomb proof? from my experience of Skylines, Subarus etc. I would say 100% no! Let me know an RB26 or V8 that can be fully rebuilt for just over £2000..... ...in the end the rotary is just different.

[sadgoth]

well said Ant! I have the utmost respect for Tim and Matt at RX Motors and that is why I always have the work on my FC done by them.

[rx7veilside]

u cant rebuild a rotary for 2000 unless u are either doing it yourself or using very few parts labour alone is around 800.00 as soon as u start adding parts its tots up to on average 3000.00 housings after a seal failure are 250-300 and same for rotors plus water seal kit etc
i am not saying ls1 is the ultimate but it will give equal perf and better reliability than a rotary and if any doubt about the ls1 log onto hinson supercars.com it is very informative
there has been one done over here and that is pushing big numbers and will deff need some kind of uprated diff
mr rebuild using 1housing and 2 seals plus gaskets/seals was 1700.00 so if 1 rotor was needed that wld have been 2000.00 and that was for a loss of 2apex seals had i lost the other housing/rotor then it wld have rapidly headed towards 3000.00

[ds2000]

I don\'t think thats the point being made, the rotary is the heart and soul of this car, take it out and you may as well have gone and bought something else alltogether.

[A7NTY]

u cant rebuild a rotary for 2000 unless u are either doing it yourself or using very few parts labour alone is around 800.00 as soon as u start adding parts its tots up to on average 3000.00 housings after a seal failure are 250-300 and same for rotors plus water seal kit etc
i am not saying ls1 is the ultimate but it will give equal perf and better reliability than a rotary and if any doubt about the ls1 log onto hinson supercars.com it is very informative
there has been one done over here and that is pushing big numbers and will deff need some kind of uprated diff
mr rebuild using 1housing and 2 seals plus gaskets/seals was 1700.00 so if 1 rotor was needed that wld have been 2000.00 and that was for a loss of 2apex seals had i lost the other housing/rotor then it wld have rapidly headed towards 3000.00

You can I think ours was about £2200 with new housings.

[A7NTY]

I don\'t think thats the point being made, the rotary is the heart and soul of this car, take it out and you may as well have gone and bought something else alltogether.

Exactly, you may as well buy a corvette ffs :bandit

[ds2000]

^ Exactly, the 13b was probably the main reason I bought the car, I know it\'ll fall to bits at somepoint but who cares, its a car, cars wear out.  I\'m damned if I\'m going to worry about it and let that stop me enjoying this awesome car!

[mullins]

I will add that when RX Motors built my engine, it suffered a small problem after I had run it at over 180mph on several occasions, Tim very kindly identified and repaired the engine for us at no charge to ourselves, I made no complaints to him, didnt get in a tif, we just talked about it like gentleman and got it sorted out, infact I had to barely talk to the guy as I knew it was in capable hands. Perhaps there is something to learn here kids.
I dont talk to people that work on my car like im at war with them, I dont treat them like tw@ts, if you want people to be cooperative then theres my advice.

I dont know the specifics on this case but im just trying to make a point to all you keyboard warriors out there with a god complex.

Good for you. You\'ve had a positive experience with the above garage. Glad you could share it. I\'ve had a bad experience so if sharing it makes me a keyboard warrior then so be it. Just as you sing their praises I will let people know that I wouldn\'t use them again. It\'s simple word of mouth and is what discussion forums are all about.:Thumbs-up

[CraigN]

As someone said the badboy clifford alarms can cut sometimes upto 4 different circuits on a vehicle to imobilise it.

The fuel pump is one i have allways asked never to have done. On my cosworth and my FD i have used a simple 4 way relay and
my own wiring and i rewired my fuel pump straight to the battery with the relay wired to the standard fuel pump wiring just to switch on the system.

I like 14v @ My fuel pump at all times previous experience with the cosworth has proved this.

Thatcham Cat1 regulations state that a circuit has to have 30cm of wire removed (or the distance between the points the alarm attatches to the circuit has to be no less than 30cm)
It also has to be soldered and insulated properly. Scotch locks and spade connectors are a disaster waiting to happen.

Again as people have said if lower quality wire is used in the alarm system (cheapo alarm or dodgy installer) and it is for example in the fuel system the voltage to the pump will drop and
it will not supply enough fuel. This i think is easier to understand than the ignition problems talked about here.

I need to investigate this as i have a HKS twin power fitted. The bodges i have found on my car since i bought it have to be seen to be believed, i have had fuel lines held on with blue anodised
hose finishers and Shells finest optimax leakign all over my spark plugs and HT leads !!!!!!

Ive allready wired the fuel pump so i will have a look at the ignition wiring and find were my alarm is wired into.

out of interes does anyone sell an aftermarket or "new" loom for a FD3s ? Again 17 year old wiring was a problem on my cossie and i had a completely new wiring loom made. A mate has a business that does just this
he supplies Mark Shead of M A Developments with looms for his Autronic setups on skylines and evos. I could ask him if he would be interested in making new looms for the FD.

[richard cash]

ok first id like to say that im not blaming anyone for my car breaking. I dont know what caused it yet so am keeping an open mind.

From what i understand the only reason it would go pop this early is die to det. this is caused by heat, which is either 2 main things from what i can see; fuel or ignition. Although these can be changed due to many different things

Now ive got to find the problem for the det and when i take the engine out next week with a mechanic mate we will check what we can, the rest of the stuff will go to RX motors as tim has said he can repair it for a lot cheaper than normal due to the engine being out of the car. He can then check everything else out (engine internals and water/oil pump etc.

So far ive checked all the hoses for splits, they are fine. the plugs and leads were changed when i had the remap by max. Since then ive not changed anything else on the car. The day it happened i looked at the maximum figures on the PFC and this is what i saw:

boost: 0.96bar (car was mapped to 1bar so didnt iverboost)
water: 88c
inlet temp: 44c (including waiting in traffic though so lower when driving
knock:11
oh, and i only use optimax, what it was mapped on.

when i got back i checked the engine bay and everything looked ok, no oil/water anywhere on the drive, checked the turbo compressor to see if it had fallen apart and was ok
checked the plugs and they hadnt popped off
did a compression check by sound and that didnt sound the same. On the front rotor it was only making a noise twice, in one revolution, there were 3 compression noises on the back rotor.

i dont think i can check anything more until i start taking the engine bay apart. Then i will check the injecors to see if they are squirting ok, ill check the coil as chris at reworx has suggested that the alarm thing may have messed up the pins in the coil. Ill also have to check the turbine on the turbo to see if this is damaged, im guessing it is as i had to have this rebuilt last time too.

I cant think of anything else to check but ill let people know what my results are. When i get the engine out and tim has stripped it ill also describe the findings. Until then, like i said, im not blaming anyone. I am however obvliously dissapointed as i thought when it came back from the mappers after spending around £5K having it built/mapped etc i would not have to worry about the engine for a very long time. It was certainly a shock to find out that all that money had only lasted me 1000miles of fun!! :s

[rx7veilside]

i disagree that the rotary is the heart and soul it maybe the heart but the look of the rx7 is unique and the only thing spoils the car for me is the reliability issue and no it dont want to buy a corvette ffs as someone said a corvette is a lhd car i dont want a lhd i want rhd.sorry if i have upset rotary die hards.ant i think u got a very good deal at 2200 for a rebuilt and i assume ported engine with new housings

[rx7veilside]

i would be curious to know what injectors/fuel pump u are running as ur reading from the pfc are well within safety limits and i would def look toward fuelling

[richard cash]

my fuel pump is a bosch 044 (installed by dragon)
injectors are 850ccx4 (installed by dragon)
aditional injectors in elbow are 680\'s (installed by reworx)
figures on the PFC for the 4x850\'s (never more than 75% max)