Need Advice from Rebuild Masters !!

[paul3944]

Hi,

Been cleaning all my engine internals and measuring all parts they are within tolerances but i have a doubt about the Rear Housing. :confused:

It has a slight groove about 1.5cm in length and catches your fingernail.
Could i get away with it as it\'s right on the edge(Pic).

Otherwise the housing is top notch shame to skip it :mad:

Many thanks
Paul

[mullins]

That looks more like an end plate than a housing :Tongue1

[ro284]

Too close to the seal groove for my liking Paul!
Bob

[paul3944]

That looks more like an end plate than a housing :Tongue1

In the Factory Service Manual and Parts Catalogue there called housings

Front Housing
Rotor Housing
Intermediate Housing
Rotor Housing
Rear Housing

:yes

Paul

[paul3944]

Thanks Bob for the reply

I think the groove was made by the Apex seal assist piece plus the rear rotor was blown aswell.

Could i get it lapped or would it be more cost effective to replace :confused:

Many thanks
Paul

[interloper393]

think your best to replace bud, think its more if you can catch your finger nail on it then a seal and catch and get ripped out.. all new engine rebuilt again..

[stuart wizy]

paul have u checked the drop with a dti (dial test indicator)?
no more than .004" is the tolerance for deviation in flatness, it looks like its the corner seal path where the lip is on your pic, are u sure the lip is not the carbon build up on the outside of the cxorner seal path?

[paul3944]

Yes Mate,

I used a dial indicator to measure them, I\'ve placed a Rotor on the housing to see if the groove will come into contact with the corner seal path.

And as mentioned earlier if the groove is deep enough it can dislodge a seal

Putting the Rotor on the housing has now confirmed it\'s too risky to use

Paul

[mullins]

Why not get the surface re-faced?

[paul3944]

Who would you recomend to get it resurfaced by ?
Would it be cheaper to get a good second hand one :xconfused

Thanks for the input everyone  

Paul

[stuart wizy]

u can get the plates re lapped flat but it depends how worn they are to start with, I think the nitride coating on a cast iron plate is .020" thick, so if this is already worn say .006" and then u have it lapped flat taking another 0.010" of, your only left with .004" of nitride on your iron plate.
Ive been playing around with an old inter plate seeing how thick the coating is,     cutting on  a milling machine  at .014" deep from a touch on the nitride i was down to cast iron! so the nitride coating is not deep.
there are heat treatment firms who specialise in hardening, anealing, nitriding, stelite etc all over the place if u look round,
its worth enquiring cause it might work out cheaper to have all your plates recoated and lapped for maximum compresion on all 4 side faces on your engine.

[paul3944]

Thanks Stuart

Excellent Info :Thumbs-up

[stuart wizy]

I used to skim a lot of aluminum cylinder heads flat that had warped and blown head gaskets and you will be surprised how much material you have to take of some of then to get them flat again! sometimes as much as ..015"

this priciple is the same for the side housings but your limited to the thickness of the nitride once u start lapping flat and whats to say the plates havent been lapped before.
Make a few phone calls tommorow to a nitride coating firm and i think you will be surprised at the price:Thumbs-up

[ro284]

I think a lot depends on the way the engine failed if it did! when mine went it was a corroded seal groove, (not enough corrosion inhibitor over the years!) but the result was that my end and inter housings had distorted with the heat it reached,not flat! a new rotor housing would rock\' on them, so had all new housings while i was at it,
Good luck Bob

[paul3944]

Think I\'ll check these guys out

Nitriding

http://www.nitriding.co.uk/portal.asp

Paul