desperate cry for help....

Started by FD3SNuttah, June 21, 2006, 08:04:41 PM

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alban1973

Quote from: TURBOIINUTTAHno immobiliser  - lol not that easy this oen mate haha although i wish it was :(

The trouble is when you find the little bugger, it usually is something very simple..  Are you using the same ECU and wiring as from the other car?  have you checked continuity between the injectors and where the loom runs to the car, the engine wiring does get very brital.  Have you checked the fuel pressure? filter? if you have all of the above you do really need to get the injectors checked as mentioned above. just seems odd to me that you got it started before.... but thats cars for you...  good luck. i will keep my thinking cap on.
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FD3SNuttah

WAIT A MINUTE!!!

QuoteSo you don\'t have power going to the injectors is your problem. I\'d say go look at your solneoid resistor package and make sure it\'s plugged up to the harness. It\'s located below the afm/filter and mounted on the fender with two nuts. It has a aluminum cover and has one large electrical connector going to it. IF it\'s there, the pull the plug off and make sure the center wire on the connector has 12vdc. It should be a black/yellow

Maybe its my fuel pump rewire thats the problem ere!!!! but did incorporate the relays into the new wiring system like it says in the "fuel pump rewire" writeup?!!! im going to check this tomorrow

Kaptainbalistik

There is a cutout in the airflow meter that changes the Voltage to the EFI pump from 9 ish volts to 12v when running. So that can cause confusion. That relay is also a **** when it plays up.

To deflood You have to Pull the ECU fuse (Second in from the motor) And crank out the motor. Use a baby feeder syringe to prime the motor with oil. (Auto trans fluid works well)

Also clean the plugs with Areostart or another Ether based starting compound

Go to Halfords and grab from the bike section a pair of NGK 7\'s. That should start it if it was flodded.

To check for Injector clicking , Use a plastic tube as a stethescope with the Fuel pump fuse pulled. Take the cover off the crank angle sensor and tap the primary trigger with a screwdriver in the pickup tip. (with the ignition on)

FD3SNuttah

hey thanks for the suggestion - but im 100% sure its not flooded dude. reason being is how can it when there is no fuel goin in?! id be able to smell it ****ing out of the downpipe?!

i have a spare relay (lucky i grabbed that!) the plugs are very very clean cos they are brand new.

FD3SNuttah

i didnt sleep last nite thinking about wht the problem might be.

I have decided that it cant be the fuel cut off switch as it stops the fuel pump all together - as i cn hear my fuel pump running it cant be that.

Im going to have to bite the bullet and then take off that UIM arnt i. what a pain in the ass.

Anyone know if the wires to the injectors are accesible in the engine bay i couldnt see them coming out of anywhere? if i can find these then maybe i can hot wire an injector to see if it clicks?

hey vendors!!!!! got an idea? ill only be on the phone later bugging you!

grinder

did you check the voltage at the ECU like we discussed on the phone - this will tell you if the injectors are wired up right

if they are - then check for fuel rates thru them

start cheap matey - then work up the ££££ scale


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FD3SNuttah

#51
Hey Stu, your right mate, i dont want to go down that road of replacing bits n bobs. (£££££\'s!!!)

I know we were getting voltage from the ecu pins mate - but i couldnt see the ground time as my multimeter is a bit crap and it is very short. the only way to see them flipping is to get a special meter/lamp thing which a my mate has.

i know the problem is with the injectors not "opening" so my fault has got to be electrical. The ecu has to be fine as it is sending the signal as far as the condensor. so between there and the injectors lies my problem!

The thing is i gotta pretty much strip the top off the engine to get at these injors (cheers for the great design mazda!!) and this naturally seems real daunting. I want to test the injectors first by hot wiring them, so does anyone know where the signal wires are routed?

It would help if anyone knows if there is any reason for the injectors not to fire assuming that the wires are fine?

Martiny

Maybe I didnt read properly, but did you get any ecu codes?

I think those injectors will only fire, if the ecu knows the engine is turning. It knows its turning if it gets sginals from the crank angle sensor. THis also tells the ecu when to fire the plugs.


It if was me....
I would get a spray bottle, put petrol in it with a little oil. remove the intak just before the butterfly. now get your buddy to crank it and hold that throttle wide open.

You spray fuel in there, and try and sort of vary the mixture yourself.

It should start. If it does, we know definitely that:

1) Compression is good.
2) Spark and ECU are good ( for supplying spark at least).
3) Crank angle sensor is good.

Also, hearing it run will motivate you again !!

Then lets start figuring out why there is no fuel. You said earlier the rail was pressurising, yet we are now talking about pump / relay?

FD3SNuttah

#53
Its all my fault for trying something that hasnt really been done! to reiterate - i have swapped an s5 t2 engine and manual gb into a s4 chassis which came with an auto. i have had to chop into the original s4 harness so i can run the coils and a few other non essential items. as the s5 engine loom has the CAS TPS blah blah already on there so i didnt have to cut that loom.

When i swapped the engines over i had a problem with the inhibitor switch as it wasnt allowing me to crank so i made my own starting system. Then i thought while im at it I will rewire the fuel pump according to this.

i know in my original post i said i could smell fuel but now i think that it must have been the fuel on me when i was playing with those fuel lines. so sorry bout that!

http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/rewire.htm

Then I came to start the engine the first time it coughed into life for a bout 4 seconds then i switched off cos i couldnt breath and there wasnt much water in there. i thought it would run again subsequently not the case! i dont know why it started up that time?

it hasnt started since although i can get it to run on easy start! I cant smell fuel and when i pull the plugs they are dry as a bone. last night i thought that my fuel pump rewire had something to do with it but theres no input on the ecu for that so i doubt it.

I think im on my own with solving this one....  wish me luck!

sadgoth

getting to the injectors isn\'t as much of a mission as it might initially seem! I managed to get the IC, UIM and gubbins off and down to the injectors in about 30 mins, tried to replace the injectors with 1000cc items - only couldn\'t fit the things in grrr! put it back together in about 45mins!
Mark
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GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

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FD3SNuttah

cant suss it out - i think im not getting any signal to the injectors - i know they work on a negative pulse.

I think i have had enough - might prepare a for sale / breaking thread soon after the weekend.

banned advertiser

Have you made sure that the wires are the right way round to the injectors ie primary not on secondary?

FD3SNuttah

hey Gary

I cant even see the wires for them tbh - i think that maybe im missing a connection? i was thinking of gettin an auto electrician out - but i fear those guys i really do!

I havent messed with the injectors as i pulled the engine out of the donor complete with wiring loom still attached - on the s5 the injectors are on the middle plug going to the ecu - i have +12v showing there -

Tbh if i wipe my face clean with it id be happy - shame to break what is a perfect car - no rust whatsoever on it!

Brett

You need to do as I advised and whip off the UIM, then you can test the injectors individually, its a pain I know, but its only a mornings work, if they click when you apply a curret then they are duff, if they do then you need to start looking for a poor connection in the loom.
Brap Brap Brap Brap

grinder

sat thinking reading the haynes manual :D

how did you wire you injectors up ????

its just that the s4 turbo uses low imp one and the s5 uses high ones ( or vice versa )

so have you plugged the injectors into the S4 harnes and then spliced that into the ECU or what ???

just another thought why they might not be firing - the ecu might not beable to see them ( or get the voltage to them )

im sure that the S4 wiring loom has something in it to alter the impedance ??

some other bright spark may have a better way of explaining it - but this post might help them ( and you ????????? )

Stu


1990 Black Turbo II ( Updated 24th October 2006 ) : Click Here !!
1991 Turbo II Cab ( Updated 21th May 2009 ) : Click Here !!
Piccies >>> July 2004 / August 2005
My Feedback Thread: Click Here !!
Official Mazda Rotary club Tight A$$ :King (So tight only dogs hear him fart)
MRC Bargain Hunter 2005/6/7/8/9/10/11/12/13/14 :god
Inventor of the 96p car cover:D
**Special award for services to tightness**
Lifetime achievement award for services to tightness
The tightest man on earth
:Giggle