High Intake Temps

[Bulla]

I\'m on full boost at 4k so I guess I could have it set for that.

Many thanks to everyone for all the replies.

Bulla

[antnicuk]

it is definately worth having if you are going to be doing more mods,  it is normally set to come on with boost rather than revs though,  mine is set at 0.7 bar which is on the safe side.  

You can get basic kits for about £200 which work very well. (on the MRC track day my intake temps were 12 degrees constantly)

[Bulla]

Ah right  :Hammer  I guess you could play with it until you found the right balance between temps and it drinking the water bottle in 5 mins ?

Bulla

[Frankie]

I\'ve been worrying about intake temps myself recently and it struck me the other day that all the worry is because the apexi PFC can\'t retard the timing based on knock levels.

The standard ECU would notice any knock caused by high intake temperatures and retard the timing to sort the problem. So, i guess the solution is to stick the stock ECU back in there! Unless of course, you have other mods (like a decat), in which case you\'re boned!

Ta, Paul.

So I can drive how I like all day with my standard ECU and not worry too much even when its 30 degrees outside? cool.

[M@r]{]

could it be rigged up to work with the Apexi PFC?  For example it comes on when the intake temp breaches a preset temp?  Doubtful I know but worth an ask  

[antnicuk]

{\']could it be rigged up to work with the Apexi PFC?  For example it comes on when the intake temp breaches a preset temp?  Doubtful I know but worth an ask  

i dont think so although you can get fully mappable kits that follow the inj duty cycle but they are more expensive and obviously need setting up well.  I think you really need a little boost to atomise the water well so you want it on boost before it kicks in.

All the people i know, even the high power cars, use a boost switch type with no issues.

[AtomicRex]

In slow moving traffic why are the inlet temps so high>?  It\'s not as though you are going to be on boost surely??

[fro]

In slow moving traffic why are the inlet temps so high>?  It\'s not as though you are going to be on boost surely??

heat soak
The air intake temperature sensor is screwed into the bottom of the UIM. The UIM gets hot, the sensor gets hot and the inlet temps go up. Also, if you have a SMIC, it is heatsoaked from the radiator directly below it

[FD3UK]

I am in the pro W/I court. This is one of the best mods for any turbo rotary and you will see a vast improvment in intake temps. I use Aquamist with their FIA2 controller which mimics the fuel injector pulse to control water flow, set to cut in at 0 PSI boost. I use distilled water from a 5ltr plastic petrol can and depending on driving it will last two or three fuel fills.


PFC does not retard ignition via knock sensor, but it does retard ignition by up to 10 deg between 60-80c intake temps

[M@r]{]

ok, this is making want WI now!  Not to up the boost as such more for bringing down the intake temps.  What are the best to get?  With price affecting what is \'best\' considerably    

[Ed_RX7]

Mark I have WI on mine ( could have showed you at ACE) and I agree with wot ross says ..I am running about 430 at the wheels and my WI is for safety, only coming in at about 0.6 bar...and I wouldn\'t have it any other way....when my temps are getting too high from heat soak I just open her up abit and hey presto....shes cool again....but in saying that I dont get stupidly high intake temps....(probably due to my setup).....
 
The way mine is set up I could run on low boost with no water and still be safe.

[FD3UK]

Info on Aquamist HERE

Cooling mist HERE

[Andy_k]

Lowering the temps help (safety and more power) and water injection is great tool for helping that(nitrous is better tho).

What on earth do you think they do in japan?
Why dont they get all these problems?

Its a fair bit hotter than here, they track the cars with front and stock mounts and you rarely see water injection on them. Also  i hear they tune more aggressively than or here. (cant all be down to the octane rating)

[John Yorke]

Forget Japan this is the UK! look at all the sites abroad and they will tell you this and that even the UK is divided :confused: Your PRIMARY concern should be your engine water temps, this hot weather has highlighted problems with intake / water temps, your car should not be overheating in this weather if you are seeing water temps of +90 crusing or 95+ in traffic or on your \'test track\' you have problems, inlet temps are a problem but not as much as you think, your engine will be fried if it overheats, high inlet temps prevent performance it wont go bang!

My best advice, ensure you have good engine cooling, if you have fitted a FMIC you reduce the cooling of the water rad - get a bigger one , if you have a SMIC install WI it is one of the BEST performance / safety mods you can do [it dont cost a fortune either, have a look on fleabay, or speek to your favorite UK tuner] AND  it will stand you in good sted for future mods, I am sure Ross wont mind if I say at RS1 he was running a SMIC with WI and have a look at his times AND he drove to and from the track, think that says it all unless you want to talk about charge cooler / V mounts :mmmm

[Jonathan_F]

I believe there was a group buy from DubForce (some VW lads, not sure on their forum address) and for £225ish they got a variable rate type that followed the boost. Sounds like a bargain. On my wish list anyway. Have no more information to impart.

I\'m pro WI too. Check my post on high speed temp sensors. Much less prone to heat soak, and they will give you a real idea of whats going on. I watch my temps drop a deg/sec when I come off boost or start up.