TOAD A200 uninstall?

Started by Prof, June 08, 2006, 05:13:13 PM

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Prof

Has anyone got any details on the connectors that go into the main unit - theres a big long one accross the side near the LED and sensor inputs, and 2 smaller ones on the short side.  These look to have heavier wires.

If anyone has install instructions this might also help !!

Cheers,

Prof  :cheers
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


Prof

Little update - it sais its an A200Plus.

Has from top of case round to side :

3 pin connector - seems to go to RF module, 4 or 5 pin connector to vibration sensor, 2 pin connector to LED, 2 pin connector to pushbutton, big 14ish way connector - mostly thicker leads, then on the side, 8 way with thick connectors, 5 pin with smaller wires - found 1 hood switch and 1 trunk switch, so I am guessing this is mostly inputs.

Any help on working out what the 2 larger connectors pin outs are - I would hate to have to reverse engineer that mutha... :(
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


MikeLMR

larger connections are going to be things like connections to the flasher circuits, central locking, voltage sensing circuit, feeds for the alarm and the imobiliser circuit, it shouldn\'t be that bad to work out, I would have thought the only way to strip this out properly is by tracing the wires back to where they are tapped into the loom. The main one you will be interested in of course is the imobilser circuit !

Prof

Cheers Mike,

I had tried calling toad, but they got a little secretive !! :(

I\'ve managed to find where all the wires go, bit of a buggers muddle though, and the installer was el numero uno hacker  :2Rolleyes

Still out with my soldering iron, heat shrink, black tape and some decent connectors.
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


MikeLMR

sounds like it was fitted properly. The wires are initially identified by tags on the ends that get cut off to length and all are colour coded ...  in black ! ... it makes it nice and secure but its a bugger to fault find !

Any specific questions and I\'ll try and ask my Dad, he was a thatcham approved fitter at Mazda for a long while.  (many years ago we fitted a Toad alarm to my 323 too, quite an easy job with the aid of a decent wiring diagram)

Prof

Managed to get it all out in the end !  :yes

Theres a pair of relays who\'s wires dissapear into the door, one interrupts a Red wire with a white stripe, the other appears to go straight into the drivers side door.  They are running off a normally closed (30 and 87a) circuit, and an auxillary output from the Toad broke the connection for a timed period during setting / unsetting of the alarm.

I\'ve left the relays attached, but disconnected the coil drive, nothing seems to have stopped working.  :confused:

I have now plumbed in my Prostar Gold, which I must say is one hell of an alarm.  It offers all the features of the original Toad, plus multiple coded keyfobs, 2 way paging, turbo timer, anti hijack and remote start.

It has also greatly simplified the pile of wires that was my original alarm install, I was getting fed up of the relays hanging down into the footwell, doors locking and unlocking randomly - in short it was a mess.  Not that this is any fault of the TOAD alarm, it\'s just without a wiring diagram I was going to be on a hard road refitting it neatly.

Thanks for the help Mike - it gave me the impetus to get on and reverse engineer which is what I do best ! :D
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex