FC3S Modifications and results

[Iwan]

Now, with power figures.... making 317,5 PS on a MAHA dyno. Figured out later, that the IC hose was poped off... Dyno run was done at 0.8 BAR of boost. Even not bad on stock FC Engine with stock I/C. Intake temps are to high!




REgards
Iwan

Specs has been changed due to winter process :lol:

Specs as bellow plus:
- FD Fuelpump (to be replaced soon, Bosch 044 is the target ^^)
- HKS full Turbo-kti T04E (ターボ　キト ^^)
- Energy- Suspension urethane bushing
- Racing-Beat adjustable control- endlinks
- Savana GT-R adjustable suspension
- Blitz dual SBC boost- controller
- few gauges ^^

Pics attached ^^

REgards
Iwan

PS: costs so far: >4500 GBP \'°_°\'

[McPie]

add two more fuel injetors 560cc
WALBRO fuel PUMP
BOOST CONTROLER
INJECTOR CONTROLERS
RESTORED TURBO
FREE FLOW intake and exhaust
 
for the moment ~260HP
 
will install bigger intercooler and LSD diferential also increase turbo presure and to get 300+HP and 400+Nm

[antnicuk]

I suppose as i currently have the fastest recorded FC in the UK   :eek  i should post some spec.......  although i\'m sure i wont hold this tittle for long.

Car:
1991 J reg Turbo II UK model in Red.  

I bought the car 18 months ago as an ebay special with a tired engine (water seal).  It had 80k miles and full service hisotry. The bodywork was my main concern and i\'m glad to say it is solid with no rust on the body and the floor pan is still in one peice.

Interior:
I initially considered stripping the interior and putting lots of gauges and roll bars etc in it but decided against that so i slowly restored the interior to its mint condition original state except for the steering wheel and PFC Commander.

Bodywork:
Again i intially decided i wanted a body kit but decided against this as i will probably crash it drifting or doing trackdays  :Hammer  so thought the stock bumpers would be better.  I will soon be having the bodywork \'touched up\' to bring it back to mint and fitting a stock front splitter which i have looked for for ages. So it will be mint and original except for the wheels.  Which are Jap import lightweight 17" by 7.5 and 8.5

Engine:
The engine was tired and standard when i got the car so i pulled it, stripped it, ported it with a mild street port and rebuilt it with new seals. I discovered that it was a series 4 engine with the low compression rotors. I removed the power steering pump and used an electric one from a Citroen Saxo.  This makes room for the intercooler piping.  I grafted an UIM from an FD and fitted 1680cc secondary injectors into my fuel rail. Fuel Pressure regulator and a swirl pot which feeds an 044 and is fed by an 040 in tank. The battery was relocated to the boot and the huge front mount intercooler (4 x 28 x12) was fitted flat in the front of the engine bay where the undertray would normally go. I fitted water injection and NOS (now removed and never used) i made an aliminuim 2.5 litre bottle for my water injection. The rad is standard and uses the stock fan as i tried electric ones which were to unstable no matter how big i used. The temps stay nice and cool so i was happy with this even if costs me a few HP.

I bought Ed\'s turbo and had it reconned (GT35/40) which i fitted to an FD HKS manifold and use an HKS wastegate together with a home made exhaust keeping the twin exit of the FC.

Geff at Reworx modified my wiring loom to take the Power FC and the car was finally mapped to 378 BHP at the rear wheels.

Suspension:
I have fitted a set of RE - A 4 way damping camber adjusting coilovers,  new poly bushes everywhere and nylon DTSS eliminators. I fitted a rear camber adjuster bar, front top and lower strut brace\'.

Brakes:
Briaded lines all round inc clutch.  I had black diamond drilled and grooved discs and pads but i over heated them on the brands hatch track day so i am currently in the process of fitting big brakes so things should be a lot better.
I will post up what i have done if the conversion works ok.

Drive Train:
I have a racing beat pressure plate and a paddle clutch plate. I also fitted an Efini model LSD. Gearbox is a good stock one with a quick shifter. I currently have solid nylone engine mounts but they are a bit to harsh although very good. I have got a set of Mazda speed uprated rubber mounts to fit.

Everything on the car has been done by myself except mapping and the wiring loom.  I have had a lot of help from various people and lots of advice from everyone (many thanks)

After having an FD as my only car i went for the cheaper option FC so i could afford a nice daily driver and dont feel bad having a car worth a lot of money sitting in the garage.  The car now sits in my garage when not in use (most of the time) so should last a few years.  

I was initially undecided what i wanted from the car.  I was going to strip it and use it for all out drag racing but thought that would ruin the car and reduce the resale value.  Also, i cant get to the drag strip very often and when i do i get fed up with queing.  It was at this point i decided to make the car as usuable as possible and this is what i have done. The car is very versatile, i have used it for the odd drift day, the odd track day and still managed to drag race it once at RS3 and run a 12.2 at 119 which i was happy with.

You can probably tell that i\'m bored at work.  I was considering changing my signature, but after RS3, i think i will keep it......

As this is just my hobby, i am quite happy to share my small amount of knowledge with others as i have tried a few things that have not been done before and they seem to work.  The main reason for this is budget.  The whole car cost me less than the cost of some peoples engine rebuilds... :WaveBye

[grinder]

thread cleaned up slightly

Clutch Master Cylinder Rebuild & Braided Clutch Hose fitting

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=260366

[grinder]

DTSS Installation write up

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?p=260375

[Matts-gen2]

Ive got a gen2 non turbo (1989), its completely standard.

Whats the standard tuning procedure?

Anyone know what the best air filter is to get? and what other mods are the usual.

Matt :cheers

[Brett]

Hi Matt, welcome to MRC :wave

Take a look at this thread http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9197&highlight=Brett

It gives a run down as to what I did with my egi a few years back. 180-200bhp is possible without too much pain. (Barring skinned knuckles)
From my own experience the K&N panel filters are good, only go with the cone type if you can ensure a decent air feed to it, oh and be warned unless its setup right a big cone can cause the notorious 3800rpm-4000rpm flat spot to become more like a sheer wall...

 Got any pics?

[Iwan]

OK. time for update!

got a nice Garrett T04S turbo for a good price. Removed my T04E, and installed the T04S.

After some trouble with Microtech I have managed a new wiring for Apexi PowerFC, FD version. Installed all the FD parts needed incl.
3BAR map sensor (Bosch type)
FD air temp sensor
FD igniter
MSD 6A ignition amp (well, not nativ to FD)

Stock I/C is a "no go" even on stock car and boost and it was time for something serious  like Greddy TypeR front mount intercooler.

Modified fuel setup with a Walbro GS341 pump, and a set of two 700cc primary and 1000cc secondary injectors.

Build a new engine with:
mild street port
Cosmo 13B Rotors
Cosmo 13B Rotor- housings with FC exhaust sleeves,

After run in, it was time for a dyno, managed 438 PS on 0.8 BAR of boost



 and 450 PS at one bar.  Not bad for T04S compressor and FC engine. The power is at the flywheel so RWHP is about 380 PS.



REgards
Iwan

[McPie]

Daugiau RX-7 aka FC3S fotkiu
 
Engine:
 
Unpluged air pump
unpluged oil injection to rotor housing
(2 stroke oil 10/100 into fuel tank)
Rebuilded engine
ported intake
Westgate porting
Walbro 255 lph fuel pump
GReddy E-manage fuel manage ...
instaled 2 more 460cc injectors into intake manifold
instaled electric fan
Stineless steel exhaust system from 45mm to 57mm
BOV
 
Transmition
 
40mm KILEN lowering coil spring kit
changed shock absorbers - NO NAME :shock:
LSD diff from FD3S
F1 G forse ceramic clutch kit stage 2
 
 
Brakes
 
OEM brake pads
 
 
TYRES
 
front DUNLOP SPORT MAXX 205/45/R16
http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/600/dsc07969hc6.jpg
rear NEXEN 3000 225/45/R16
 
 
 
Body
 
rust
stock full TII S5 body kit
 
last part of body kit now just repair it and repaint
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/717/sijonassonugs7.jpg
http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/4923/sijonasdg8.jpg
 
 
Interiour
Smaller steering wheel
Boost Gauge
OIL presure gauge
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/9841/dsc07982oe6.jpg
 
FUTURE:
FMIC
ALIUMINIUM HOOD
clean rust
 
p.p.s. it\'s fast :twisted:
last DYNO without BOV and new exhaust gave me only ~260HP to wheels
when stock was http://images.bite.lt/banga/files/content/200601/43ba236cd2162.jpg
next week will install gera box change all oil and turn it on DYNO :3gears-lh

[Prof]

Good work there McPie - it looks like a cracking car. What emanage are you using - the blue one, gold one or the Ultimate (silver/grey) ?
 
Just seen your last piccy - so you got the blue one in there !

[Brett]

Amazing wheels as well :yes  all in all, top job  Whats the modding scene like over there?

[McPie]

Good work there McPie - it looks like a cracking car. What emanage are you using - the blue one, gold one or the Ultimate (silver/grey) ?
 
Just seen your last piccy - so you got the blue one in there !

 
Correct the blue one

[McPie]

wheels from mazda 929, but it looks nice.
 
I\'m still waiting for clutch kit, propably this weekend I\'ll collect that 3D puzzle And in May will show DYNO results...
 
will try to arrange all RX-7 in Lithuania and make rotary dyno day
not much We have only 22, but arrive I hope 7 car\'s not more Maybe few RX-8 will come

[billybobbooth]

Hi Matt, welcome to MRC :wave
 
Take a look at this thread http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9197&highlight=Brett
 
It gives a run down as to what I did with my egi a few years back. 180-200bhp is possible without too much pain. (Barring skinned knuckles)
From my own experience the K&N panel filters are good, only go with the cone type if you can ensure a decent air feed to it, oh and be warned unless its setup right a big cone can cause the notorious 3800rpm-4000rpm flat spot to become more like a sheer wall...
 
Got any pics?

i also found the higher the octain fuel you use this spot gets more and more i did a trst run after my egi was all reset for the exhuast and cold carbon air feed on 95 oct was good power hardly a flat spot, 98 oct felt more power hardly a flat spot, ran 99 oct + a 6 point oct upgrade from a race company lots more power but the flat spot is well noticed!
 
mods so far
 
full exhaust system including header about to put a race/road full system including header from racing beat on, and cold air feed and baffles from the exhaust port removed. nice power not sure on normal but is happy beeting vr6\'s and tuned n/a mr2\'s and keeps up with my mates fairly tuned 2.2 vetec prelude, day only night i get drag from the lights but still keeps up with a mates vr6 at night! there 178bhp standard so not bad for a 1988 rx7 egi

[Matts-gen2]

baffles from exhaust port? how do u remove these?

where are you talking about exactly, ive had the thermal reactor removed, is this what you mean?

where does your cold air feed come up from, it theis with a K & N cone filter?