Warning light buzz

Started by Kron, May 07, 2006, 04:08:55 PM

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Kron

Would someone be kind enough to let me know what number 8 represents on the warning lights please as mine as has just come on along with the ear pearcing noise.


sadgoth

if it\'s what I think it is, that\'s your low coolant warning
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D

Kron

Strange on that as I topped it up this morning, I\'ve left the car running and the buzzer and the light stopped around 6-8 minutes later thankfully.

Is this normal when its topped up?

sadgoth

no, but it happens, the sensor is in the top part of the rad, so if you top it up and depressurise the system, you can find air at the top of the rad causing the buzzer to og off. (at least that seemed to be the case with mine) You may have a small leak in the system, I did until I replaced my rad. I now have a fluidyne rad, but I also have a spare standard rad in good condition (the one I used to replace the leaky rad, before I got the fluidyne)
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D

Kron

Should you use Distilled water or De-Ionised water with the antifreeze for the 50/50 mix or can you use either?

bobf

THat was a really useful bit of info as I have a T!! with the same problem. Can anybody let me know why all my warning lights come up ( well virtually all !) suddenly and then all go out. I havent got a clue.

Regards
BobF

Prof

They are all supposed to come on when you first start the car - with key in IGN position - once the engine has started they revert to normal operation.  If the wiring is bad, they can sometimes come on all together.

I have 2 that are not coming on all the time - which I guess is a dodgy connector somewhere - I have a few of these now ! :(

The plugs on the FC are subject to a bit of corrosion from what I have seen - but not bad on a 16 year old car.  Breaking and reconnecting may be enough to get it working again.

Does anyone have a list of what all the lights are, as I don\'t have the owners manual, and my service pdf\'s are for the US model car and the idiot lights are different ?
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


sadgoth

If I can dig out the service manual I\'ll let you know.
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D

Prof

Cheers  Mark  :cheers
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


Thud

1) Hazard warning flasher
2) Overheating
3) Door Ajar
4) Headlight washer fluid level low
5) ABS system
6) Washer fluid level low
7) Hand brake on or Barke fluid level low
8) Coolant level low
9) Alternator warning
10) Engine Oil Level
11) Low fuel
12) Rear fog lights on

I hope you all never see number 2 lighting up!! However, my number 11 has been on so much the bulb must be near the end of its life (grumble grumble...petrol prices...grumble grumble).

2qk4u

I had the same problem with my TII,It might be an airlock.I find that when I top it up and then drive it the coolant/water level changes due to the pump doing its job.It seems to pull fluid into the engine when driving and then letting it back to the rad when idleing but the level is hard to maintain.Does that make sense ?

Prof

I had problems with the Wax pellet valve - these are quite cheap and easy to replace.  It\'s designed to open up the water flow to the radiator once the engine is warmed up.  The wax can get old and sticky, and the valve does not open so readily.

It might also be the filler cap, which is designed to allow a pressure build up, so the cooling system works more efficiently.  If you\'ve got an older car, then any and all of the following could be happening:

1)  Faulty thermal wax pellet valve - cheap and easy to replace  (common symptom is the top radiator hose never gets warm)

2)  Pressure filler cap - ditto - should make a satisifying *pish* when you open it - be careful though - wait a little while for the engine to cool - if it is easy to open and no noise - then you have no pressure in the system and have a leak somewhere.

3)  Air pocket in the engine somewhere - you might want to try flushing the system with a hose, and then refilling it with new coolant.  There is an engine and radiator drain plug - bit harder to do, but well worth it.

4)  Engine seal failure causing the coolant to pressurise.  This is the beginning of bad - other symptoms are that the exhaust might be very white and smokey when you first start, and the coolant overflow tank often overflows

5)  Water pump failure - could be leaking - usually leaks out of a weap hole underneath the pulley, or along the shaft.

6)  Leaking radiator

7)  Hoses not tight -  loosing coolant under pressure / load on the engine.

I\'ve had all 7 of these at different times - 4) is the big bummer  :( , but it\'s most likely one of the other problems.

BTW - thanks to Thud for the lights breakdown - I don\'t think I have ever seen 11), and my numbers 4 and 5 I think have stopped working.  :2Rolleyes
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex