Relocating battery to boot help lol

Started by interloper393, April 17, 2006, 10:27:48 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 0 Guests are viewing this topic.

interloper393

Hey guys looking to relocate ma battery to the boot, any advice or tips would be most helpful lol as iv never did it before :P..
Am i better running the wires underneath the car or through the car?

EEEeeeee!!!  :wave
--------------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------

antnicuk

I bought a big amp install kit from halfords which had all i needed.  I ran an earth back from the battery as i have had problems with poor battery power before last time i put the bat in the boot.  Run the wires through the car and make sure you have a fuse at the battery circa 250 amp.
400 BHP - 650 KG\'s = 616 BHP Per Ton of Rotary Power

That\'s the way to do it! :Thumbsup!


interloper393

Nice! lol how much did the kit cost you bud? and how did you find halfrauds instructions :P
--------------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------

BlitzBoy

I relocated my battery to the boot, I bought Battery cables and the terminals from demon tweeks in the end, perfect power no voltage drop always see between 13.8 to 14.1 volts on the commander, I run my cables through hole in the bulkhead (the aircon hole) down by the passenger side underneath the carpet along the sidewell then up into the boot.
Cost me approx 40, you need 4 metres each of both the positive and earth wire plus terminals
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

interloper393

is your battery just in a little box in the boot now? lol
--------------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------

BlitzBoy

no went for a bigger battery in the end, got fed up charging the racing battery evry two weeks lol
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

iaint

My relocation just runs the live through to the boot, again through firewall and inside the car (many relocations run the cable underneath but this doesn;t seem a great idea to me.  The earth is connected to the body in the boot.  Have a very strong voltage (13.9-14.6).  Got a Varley Red Top 30 (pretty slim) and a carbon effect case from Demon Tweeks.  not cheap but good kit.

Not had a problem yet with the alarm running it down but it rarely stands for more than 2 weeks.

Iain

"The way to do is to be." - Lao Tzu

nikp

QuoteMy relocation just runs the live through to the boot, again through firewall and inside the car...The earth is connected to the body in the boot

Mine too. I have just a very short negative cable bolted to the body of the car via the rear seat bolts.

QuoteHave a very strong voltage (13.9-14.6)

I don\'t! :( I get about 12.2, but i think my soldering skills are not up to scratch! In fact the ends of the cable are soldered pretty poorly, and that\'s where i reckon I\'m getting my drop in voltage! Still, I have enough to start the car, but give it 4 days, and the battery does run flat. However, I have an even smaller battery - the red top 20! It\'s tiny!

iaint

Quote from: nikpMine too. I have just a very short negative cable bolted to the body of the car via the rear seat bolts.



I don\'t! :( I get about 12.2, but i think my soldering skills are not up to scratch! In fact the ends of the cable are soldered pretty poorly, and that\'s where i reckon I\'m getting my drop in voltage! Still, I have enough to start the car, but give it 4 days, and the battery does run flat. However, I have an even smaller battery - the red top 20! It\'s tiny!

I thought the 30 was a decent compromise :)

My terminals aren\'t soldered to the cable - they\'re using crimped ends and absolutely no problem.

I\'ve read that teh red top batteries don\'t handle being fully discharged very well so that might be a part of the problem..?

"The way to do is to be." - Lao Tzu

nikp

Well, i was told that the red top when discharged won\'t re-charge again. But, then, what is \'dis-charged\'? Both times when mine has gone flat, it was only flat in the sense that it didn\'t have enough to start the car. Once it was jumped and charged up again, it was fine.

I was made aware that when one of these batteries is fully discharged it is highly unlikey to charge up again.

LRP

i hav major voltage drop just turns over slowly enough to start engine 4 gauge going to up to 0 gauge! also pfc reading 12.3 most of time killing battery
complete wankel :god

nikp

Quote from: LRPi hav major voltage drop just turns over slowly enough to start engine 4 gauge going to up to 0 gauge! also pfc reading 12.3 most of time killing battery

I too had a very large voltage drop. Sometimes it would turn over slowly, sometimes it would turn over quickly - so i think it was actually mainly down to my poor soldering skills. But it is a long cable, so there\'s bound to be some hit there.

LRP

Quote from: nikpI too had a very large voltage drop. Sometimes it would turn over slowly, sometimes it would turn over quickly - so i think it was actually mainly down to my poor soldering skills. But it is a long cable, so there\'s bound to be some hit there.
yeh think my alternator could do with service/recon as well
complete wankel :god

mpk490p

Maplins are good for cable if you have one near
i got all my speaker and car cable from there
Mark