Sleek headlight install & engine rebuild pics

[Bobfish]

Are we talking plastikote hot-paint as opposed to halfrauds or some specially formulated stuff for engines here? any recommendations of brand?

[Bobfish]

Well, set to work dismantling the engine this evening, did a good hours work...





The turbos:



One small crack in the housing, but pretty minimal





Shaft play is VERY minimal to non-existant.  If you puush and pull it forward 1 in 10 times youll feel a slight knock, and the secondary turbo has no play at all.

[Bobfish]

more pics for your pleasure:














engine torn down now, nearly ready to start pulling it apart once ive got the flywheel nut off.

[Rixio]

How did the work go over the weekend then BOB...

[Bobfish]

Work over the weekend went ok.  Spent most of it cleaning and stuff, tearing down parts into their components.

Now i just need to clean my housings, front cover, the engine bay of the car, OMP and sump - then im going to dismantle the existing engine, start checking clearences and re-assembling.

[Bobfish]

Engine teardown COMPLETE!!

Removing fly:



Tension bolts exposed...



The rotor in the chamber...



Housing removed..







Wear marks on the housing...doesnt look too bad!







Rotor removed...centre plate exposed...





front rotor housing:



I think this is what caused the coolant leak:




The two rotors - one on left has been cleaned.



Cleaned centre plate, ready for spraying:



More pics to come...

State of play now is that i have a few more bits left to clean (couple of hours work) a few bits to spray (engine housings) then i can start building the short block back up.

By the way, engine has done 70k - 2 of which with a blown coolant seal and radweld.

Progress is being made!!

[nikp]

Radweld kept you going for a while then? I\'ve heard it can occassionally.

[Bobfish]

yes, it got me through the summer nicely. I had to use it three times (used holts blockweld too, stronger than radweld) but it got me through the summer ok, with no adverse affects that i can see so far to the rest of the engine - turbo banjo bolts arent clogged, nor are any coolant pipes. Only problem i can see is a nasty almost unremoveable red coating on everything that the coolant has touched.

[SCOOMER]

Hi Bob,

You getting/doing any porting work while its in bits?

Oh and is this your first attempt at a rebuild?

[Bobfish]

no im not, because i cant afford a PFC right now, and will probably pull the engine apart before i go for really high HP - porting isnt essential IMO although it helps.

It is my first attempt at a rebuild on a rotary yes.

[SCOOMER]

When i got my rebuild i had it ported and ran without a PFC for a year with no ill affects. This was when it was completly standard apart from intake and cat back exhaust.

Anyway keep the pictures coming, your doing a great job!

Scott

[Bobfish]

how extensively ported though? I could probably get away with it with a cat to be honest, but my reasoning is that if you port the exhaust, you are going to increase the air throughput of the engine (as it breathes better) and because its a MAP based system to car wont detect that. That = lean condition which = bang.

If anyone has any porting templates i might consider it. did you feel any power increase from your porting scoomer? becuase if you did, i dont want to do it. Dodgy logic i know lol but my reasoning is sound.

[Bobfish]

More pics...everythings pretty clenan ow, time to paint!

[Jono FD3]

Bob, how easy has you unit come apart? any snaped studs, stripped threads, Etc.? and is it a fairly straight forward job or is it more complicated than it looks??

I might have to do this to mine soon you see

Keep the pics coming and keep up the good work!!!!

Jono

[nikp]

I believe that it can be common for there to be problems on the exhaust manifold with corroded nuts and sheared studs: but if that does occur then at least the engine is out, so it\'s a bit more easy for it to be remidied.

Generally, i understand the process of engine removal to be quite straightforward: but you should label everything (Leads, hoses, etc) so that you know where they connect back up to when putting it all back together.