uk 91 turbo 2 convertible

Started by jimmy-turbo, February 09, 2006, 08:03:13 PM

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jimmy-turbo

:( its back to flooding the engine again :(   i think it might be terminal this time, i took the rad cap off and it was bubbling water,air and silicone sealer out the top (someone must have bodged it together at some time) if the water is pressurized there must be a water leak thats letting air in right?

ive checked it for rust and its solid ,theres no dents or dinks on it and the power hood works and everythings watertight so what i need to decide is wether its worth a rebuild,i cant understand how the garage got it going so well and now it dont :god  

i was really careful too, i went on different days to check it and started it multiple times when cold and when hot and it started first time ,as soon as i got it home it kicks out clouds of smoke (if it starts) and then is fine again,its soooooo annoying ,if it wasnt for the fact that i fell in love with the sound of it ,it would have been driven of a cliff by now!

elford_tim

Quote from: jimmy-turbo:( its back to flooding the engine again :(   i think it might be terminal this time, i took the rad cap off and it was bubbling water,air and silicone sealer out the top (someone must have bodged it together at some time) if the water is pressurized there must be a water leak thats letting air in right?

Oh ****, that doesn\'t sound too good. If it\'s bubbling "air" when you\'ve got it turning over and/or running then a gasket that\'s supposed to keep coolant and combustion gasses apart somewhere doesn\'t. That\'ll be a rebuild then, sorry.

That said, if it\'s barfing up stuff like silicone sealer then I\'d be having words with the seller unless the car was very cheap or advertised as in need of a rebuild.

Quote from: jimmy-turboive checked it for rust and its solid ,theres no dents or dinks on it and the power hood works and everythings watertight so what i need to decide is wether its worth a rebuild,i cant understand how the garage got it going so well and now it dont :god  

Is that garage as in "you bought it from the trade"? If so, I\'d definitely have a word with them if you bought it as a running car.

That said, if the body is absolutely solid (check where the floor meets the inner sill and the back of the floor just in front of the rear axle) the it\'s worth a rebuild. Most cabs I\'ve seen in the past couple of years tend to suffer both from rot and duff engines. Engines tend to be cheaper to rebuild than proper bodywork (that\'s as opposed to MOT-compliant bodging) so you\'ve still done the right thing.

Quote from: jimmy-turboi was really careful too, i went on different days to check it and started it multiple times when cold and when hot and it started first time ,as soon as i got it home it kicks out clouds of smoke (if it starts) and then is fine again,its soooooo annoying ,if it wasnt for the fact that i fell in love with the sound of it ,it would have been driven of a cliff by now!

They always puff a bit of smoke out the exhaust - mine does that, and it\'s done about 250 miles since it was rebuilt.

To me it sounds like the car may have been bodged to give off the impression of a decent runner and the bodge has just blown up on you.

Oh, and yes, they do sound gorgeous. I love the sound mine makes even with all the restraint I have to muster while running in the engine  :3gears-rh
1989 Turbo II convertible in Essex Stilletto white

grinder

thats the problem with poor compression

i have a cab at the mo in the same state

it will start and run fine , stop it , it wont start

come back in 24hrs and i will start and run , but again if it stops it wont start

there is an engine and box on ebay at the mo - could be worth it as a temp measure ??

before you go mad - drop a new set of plugs in it and do a compression test - this will give you a better idea ( do the comp test first - you can use a normal comp tester if you can get your hands on one )

Stu


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jimmy-turbo

Quote from: grinderthats the problem with poor compression

i have a cab at the mo in the same state

it will start and run fine , stop it , it wont start

come back in 24hrs and i will start and run , but again if it stops it wont start

there is an engine and box on ebay at the mo - could be worth it as a temp measure ??

before you go mad - drop a new set of plugs in it and do a compression test - this will give you a better idea ( do the comp test first - you can use a normal comp tester if you can get your hands on one )

Stu

just done a compression check and the front rotors 65 psi and the backs 70psi, thats holding the release button in while cranking. The pressurization of the rad seemes to have stopped now that chuck of sealant came out too. What should the compression be?

jimmy-turbo

Quote from: elford_timIs that garage as in "you bought it from the trade"? If so, I\'d definitely have a word with them if you bought it as a running car.
i bought it as a cheap trade in from a garage, sold as seen :D