cars arrived!

[prisspringle]

well i finaly got it delivered today,it looks good but i\'m not sure since both sills need doing, what price do new sills come at ? the drivers side is rotten through from behind the drivers door i have the copy of the last test sheet and it says it has excess corrosion to :- nearside front sill, offside front and rear sill and offside front strengthening chassis( any idea where that will be)  the last owner never told me that just  some rust on the rear passenger arch :2eek and i can\'t check the engine till i get a battery for it( would of been nice to of been told it didn\'t come with one) theres a few other bits that i was never told about as well









should i fix it up or strip/sell it on and find another ?

chris

p.s. anyone with a welder is very welcome

[grinder]

thats gonna be one hell of a project buddy !!

the sills arent THAT big of a job to be honest - its just time consuming

the rest of it .. thats the wonderful world of filler

1)is the car in a garage or on your drive
2)can you jack it up and leave it where it is
3)the price you paid - you could strip it for spares .. then put that towards another one

i was ALWAYS told - get one with a good engine - as they are expensive to fix where as body work is\'nt

if i was you i would get it started and see what happens

if she runs right , then remove both seats , get it jacked up and smash hell out of the sills to get back to solid metal

the inside is easy to weld - the underside is a tad arkward

if you are going ahead with this project - then let me know - i might beable to really the troops for a day at your house helping you out

cheers

stu

so what else did the guy fail to mention then ??

[prisspringle]

just the battery and the \' small bit of rust on the arches\' :S when he said the inside was striped he wasn\'t jokeing as well, for some reson he even took out the back lights and wing mirrors.

its parked on the street atm which i wurrying me in case mr plod came along and ran the plates so i\'m gonna have to eather find a garage to stick it in to work on or sell it, if it had been like the guy said i would of probbly just given it the once over and tryed to MOT it but i did get it cheap so never mind i\'ll be happy or make a profit eather way.

are there any cross sectional pics of sills? how are the jacking points for mocking up cos i\'m not sure about one or 2 of them.

other than the rust i need to get a few bulbs new front indicator on the passenger side make sure the brakes aint stuck on and try to MOT it.

chris

[grinder]

i dont think you can MOT it with no rear lights matey ?!?!?!?

if you look underneath there are 2 box sections that run front to back and 2 the run left to right ( from the main ones )

the jacking points - i crushed mine completly - just rebuilt it with plate - a really crappy job but MOT man liked it !

get it started - it might be worth pulling the engine if it runs ok ??

[kev-yorks]

Think you\'ve got your work cut out there mate. The bad news with rust like that is its always worse than it initially looks when you start digging into it.
Kevin

[prisspringle]

its got back lights  cos i had to put them on, then take then back off to put the number plate on  :Hammer , the light that is missing is the indecator( i think) thats in the front bumper.

i\'ve had a prod and a tap at the floor near the sills and the only area i think rust would be a problem is drivers side near the arch,the rest seems ok from a inch or two back.

does anyone have a part number for a fc battery? cos i want to see if the engine atleast turns, i never realised how big the fan ducting is, nearly as big as the engine.

the engine is ment to be 20,000 and put in by rototechnics by the owner before last but theres no paper work for it, if i ring them up would they be able to confirm details?

chris

[grinder]

ha ha ha i know what you mean about the fan cowl - they are HUGE

any battery should start the car - im running one of mine from a rover 200 battery

just look for one with good amps and cranking power

take one out of your car and use that

you can turn the engine by hand

1 - open bonnet
2 - right hand side is the power steering pump
3 - pull on the belt and that will turn the engine
4 - if you take the plugs out - you can hear each compression cycle

stu

[grinder]

and YES - rototechnics should beable to confirm from chassis number or reg number

[prisspringle]

thats good news i was waiting to here i needed a funny type. i wurried when i tryed to start it and nothing happend. i might take a hammer to the floor tomorrow and deside.

any idea on how much teh whole car would go for if the engine is how its ment to be, i might ebay it if its too bad.

btw whats the small pipe that runs along side the passenger side exhaust? i guess its to do with emmisions?

chris

p.s. wtf has happend to iluvmyrx7.com just when i needed the manuels

[grinder]

so did you try and start the car then ??

what happened ?

the small pipe .. err not sure but its supposed to be there !! LOL

i have ALL the manuals at work - i can supply them in 2006 if need be

if the engine runs and is ok ( and you decide you dont want the car ) i would ..

1 - remove the engine
2 - strip it for parts .. make them DIRT cheap and you will soon make you money back

if the engine if running OK will be worth say £200 and you can make £100 - 200 on the car ( when i say cheap parts - make them something silly like £5 + P&P ) this way you will shift them VERY easily

what you dont want is loads of stuff left .. if the parts are nice and cheap i would buy a lot from you to "tinker" with

you know the FC crew - cheap as chips - so making parts over expensive is not the best way forward

Let us know how you get on

Stu

[prisspringle]

i didn\'t try my fingers were too cold it was ****ing down and i had to look after molly( the lil one)

the lil pipe seems to follow the exhaust atleast past the diff, i did think it was odd when i saw it, i though screamer pipe and thought the engine was a turbo lol

well i\'ll try the engine and the sills and see what happens, i just hope i can find a welder and an angle grinder for a good price and watch the sparks fly.

and if you could send me the manuls in the new year.

chris

[grinder]

yeah no probs buddy

a welder from ebay ..£80

an angle grinder .. £15 argos

wont cost you a lot and once bought and all that

[prisspringle]

true and alot cheaper than paying someone else to do it! i can see another rusty floor horror thread like yours and turboIInutter\'s , i just hope it not quite that bad!

did you get the replacement metal from motor factors or ask for scrap at sheet metal places?

chris

[grinder]

i went to a local metal place - got a peice of Grade B metal ( had footprints on it and the such like )

it was 1mm thick , 6 foot long by about 2 foot wide and it cost me £3

just the prices i like

and i have LOADS left of it

[prisspringle]

did you just bang it to shape then weld itor tak it on then form it?

gonna try to start the engine later this afternoon and have a prod at the sills with a screwdriver as well.