HELP I think my engine may be b*ggered!

Started by Doofry, December 12, 2005, 01:27:19 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 0 Guests are viewing this topic.

nikp

And the more usual route for an 60k engine failure is water seal failure than apex seal - although, as i iain says: it can happen.

Doofry

Sorry I\'m not getting much info back to you guys at the moment but what with work and xmas shopping it\'ll be the weekend before I get a look at it in daylight.

I did however start it up to move it this morning. The exhaust is always very \'steamy\' (not smokey) when cold, which I assume is normal for REXs. This morning it definetly felt like it was only running on one rotor. It would tick over (very lumpy and struggling) on it\'s own. I\'ve still not heard any mechanical noises which I think I\'d expect if there was a rotor tip getting rattled around in there. The exhaust does smell of unburnt fuel I\'d say and its not the usual white steamy output but now has abit of a brown colour to it.

  Does this sound like unburnt fuel to you guys? Am i right in thinking I\'d be expecting a \'blue\' output if it was burning a lot of oil? Hopefully on Saturday I\'ll be able to check some pipes (dunno which ones are accessable from the bonnet) and pull the plugs out. Are the plugs easy to get to? Am I right in thinking there are 2 per rotor?

  What tool is required to compession test a rotary? Is it mega bucks?

Thanks again

Doofry

oh by the way. As far as I\'m aware the only mods to the car are a S/Steel exhaust and foam airfilter. As far as I know its running standard boost (usually only 1 bar max on guage) and still has the CAT fitted (not checked though).

sadgoth

getting to the plugs in a bit of a mission! Still if the plugs are clogged and not firing properly it could be the cause. If the exhaust is smelling a bit petroly and there is a blackish smoke present it could well be a sign of excess unburt fuel in the exhaust.

keeping fingers crossed for you!
Mark
89 Black FC3S Turbo II
1/2 Bridge port   Microtech LT10s   TII Conv Aluminium Bonnet & Leather seats   Koni Shocks Pi Springs   De-catted 3" exhaust  
GT4088 turbo   Walbro fuel pump   1000cc injectors   custom V-Mount   Blitz Boost Controller (ok so the boost controller is still to fit)

Loud? Hell yes! :D

nikp

Quoteusually only 1 bar max on guage

1 bar is not standard boost - this could may well be your problem: if you\'re getting too much boost (standard is 0.7 bar) then you could be getting engine knock (cos you won\'t get enough petrol in for that boost), and engine knock can kill apex seals!

Quotegetting to the plugs in a bit of a mission!

And getting to the spark plugs is dead easy: done from beneath, that\'s the easiest way.

Doofry

maybe have to get the front splitter off then to get it up on ramps to get to the plugs then, eh :(

wedgiekray

..
#21
just remove the elbow and reach down, im a short arse and i can reach them fine. Take a torch with you just incase.

Editted: Meant CAN not CAN\'T :)

nikp

Whats wrong with a jack and axle stands?

Doofry

I\'ve been having a search about the forums for posts about the MAP SENSOR as originally advised by you guys. I came across this post which sounds exactly the same....fingers crossed, otherwise I will be out with the trolley jack (bit tight \'cos of my side skirts and splitter)

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17437&highlight=map+sensor

Doofry

I had a look at the MAP sensor with a torch the other night and was disappointed to see that the pipe (could only see one so assume thats all that goes to it) that goes into it seems to be fine. I\'m assuming that when this seperates it\'s at the sensor connection. It also seemed to be quite firly connected at the other end. What are the chances of this sensor actually being faulty? Does any one know how to test it with a multimeter?
  Since I\'ve now just about flattened the battery I was thinking about resetting the ECU next, incase it is in limp mode. Though from what I\'ve read the symptoms don\'t seem to match this. Then I\'ll try and pull the plugs out and have a look. Does this sound reasonable? After that should I be looking to arrange a compression test? (dunno where though. Is the compression tester for a rotary expensive?) After that its a case of emptying the piggy bank for e rebuild, eh?
  Has anyone North of the border got someone they\'d recommend for this? Whats the cost/turnaround?

Doofry

Right, since my last post I haven\'t looked at my RX apart to check a couple of the suggestions that were made. In the meantime I have split up with my wife and as such I don\'t really care about the RX anymore, so.....

  I\'m open to any sensible offers for her (the RX not the wife) and I mean sensible. Feel free to carry out any testing, etc you feel fit. Remember as there was noone who could do a compression test for me this has not been carried out. If you read the thread you\'ll see the discussions about the cars issue.

  At this point it is not confirmed that it is a rotor problem. I was pretty confident that it was a vacuum hose problem but it seems to be alright at the sensor end anyway.

  Also if there is someone now available that would be able to carry out a compression test on the RX over here in Glasgow let me know. I\'d pay obviously for this.

Cheers

Derek

banned advertiser

There is a guy called Mark who runs and garage called the Garage. He is near Edinbough I think and has worked on several RX7\'s he should be able to help

Gerry M

The tartiest rx in scotland

Doofry

Guys, as I split with the wife earlier in the year the rex has just sat in the drive since I last updated this thread un touched.

Would anyone be interested in purchasing her? As I\'ve lost interest and have other cars now. It\'s a real shame as she is beautiful car and has probably only done about 100miles on her MOT (which is prob about to expire now).

Jit

possibly interested...depends on the money really! give me a call on 07947212298 if you want?