Hello and a few questions :)

steve b · December 04, 2005, 10:25:25 AM

Hello everyone,

Just put my MR2 Turbo up for sale so I can move on to a RX7 FD3, I think I have determined I want one of the more track orientated models so a type R / RZ, i think thats correct, a 1994 model?

From modding the MR2T I have learnt that It\'ll all cost a lot less if the process is throughly planned, so bits don\'t become redundant with the addition of new mods. So my first question V mount intercooler the best way to go or the PWR charge cooler? I see some of the V mount kits are for either TT setup or Single, now the last step of my mods will be a small single turbo, but I want the improved cooling from the start as the car will mainly be used on trackdays and I don\'t want to cook it. Assuming the V mounts better than the chargecooler, is there really much difference between the single and twin kits? I don\'t want to have to replace the kit.. is it just piping differences or are the cores / radiator different?

Sorry for the long first post, many thanks

Steve

clive · December 04, 2005, 10:39:33 AM

Hi Steve and welcome to MRC,

I am sure many will come forward with their opinions on the questions you have posed , and please remember there\'s no such thing as a dumb question with this club about anything, unless of course its from me !

Freddy · December 04, 2005, 10:45:55 AM

Hi,

A 1994 model would be either a Type R2 or RZ. Type R ceased production in 1993 and was superseded by the Type R2. However, in my opinion. I donâ€™t think any real emphasis should be placed on what model the car is as there were very minor differences.

If you are going for a track spec FD then a V mount with a nice thick radiator would be your best option. Charge coolers are good, but would perhaps be more suited for drag racing than track. The V mount kits for single and twins are slightly different. Although, you can have the piping fabricated to suit a single set up from twins - just as I did.

No doubt, modding can be costly. However, ultimately if you are after a small single turbo\'ed FD then why not start with looking to purchase a single turbo\'ed car? The other alternative for experiencing the same power delivery and progressiveness of a single turbo would be to go non sequential on the stock twin turbo set up. I suppose it depends on the amount you are looking to spend on one?

Lastly, you could send me details on your MR2 for sale. I know someone who is currently in the market for one.

Cheers,
Freddy.

Freddy__k@hotmail.com

steve b · December 04, 2005, 11:09:26 AM

Hi the main thing I read about the R cars was stronger diff and lower gear ratios, this is the main draw for me towards them. Good to know its only the I/C pipes that are different the V mounts the way to go then.

Talking the engine rebuild Issue I see Jimmys quotes Â£1500 plus fitting, whats the normal fitting cost as Â£1500 seems fine to me for a build, it means I could get a cheap car and take it straight there have it rebuilt and it would still cost a couple of thousand less than a low mileage car or one thats already had the engine done.

dandan · December 04, 2005, 02:09:52 PM

I\'m not sure what that jimmy\'s quote includes, I know my rebuild included well over Â£1500 worth of parts alone, and that was without new housings or turbo\'s. then fitting was over Â£1000 too.
It does seem like buying a blown car then getting it rebuilt does work out quite cheap, don\'t know how mechanically minded you are but I have a rebuilt engine for sale if you are in a DIY mood. Although it is only stock ports and stock twins so you might want something a little beefier to start with.

20B_boy · December 04, 2005, 02:25:41 PM

Quote from: steve bHi the main thing I read about the R cars was stronger diff and lower gear ratios

The RZ is the only one with a different final drive ratio of 4.3:1, all the other (manual) cars are 4.1. The difference isnt exactly noticeable and to my knowledge the RZ diffs are no stronger than any of the others...

The RZs fetch a premium cause they were limited production and have the c/k recaros - although a lot have already been robbed by now!! There are a few other minor differences but nothing worth the extra cash imo.

R.

MikeLMR · December 04, 2005, 02:32:24 PM

moving to the correct section

steve b · December 04, 2005, 04:33:20 PM

Quote from: 20B_boyThe RZ is the only one with a different final drive ratio of 4.3:1, all the other (manual) cars are 4.1. The difference isnt exactly noticeable and to my knowledge the RZ diffs are no stronger than any of the others...

The RZs fetch a premium cause they were limited production and have the c/k recaros - although a lot have already been robbed by now!! There are a few other minor differences but nothing worth the extra cash imo.

R.

Ok, thats fair enough, what would you say is the right sort of price range for the average \'93/94 car then? Reason I ask is autotrader comes up with ones from importers saying all perfect mechanically sound, few chips, door opened against it dents, usual for year from Â£4000 ranging up to Â£8000 for ones that have been rebuilt or modified in a big way. Should the Â£4000 cars be avoided?

dandan · December 04, 2005, 04:58:22 PM

You shouldn\'t avoid the cheaper cars if you factor in the price of a rebuild from the start. If everything else on the car looks good, and you spend say, Â£4000, then get a rebuild before it blows and you should end up with a mint fresh car for less than Â£7000!
you might even be able to find a dirt cheap blown one with lots of nice shiny bits on it!

Although it is always nice to spend the cash and get a perfect car stright away, if you want something that will be reliable from day one, you will have to go around the 8000 mark at least i should think. they are cheaper in the winter though, so buy quick...

steve b · December 04, 2005, 05:24:07 PM

yes does sound a sensible idea, rebuilding one thats on the way out will be cheaper than rebuilding an actually blown one won\'t it? Think I\'ll set my buying budget at Â£4500 then keep back Â£2000 ish with a rebuild in mind, seen a few cars for that price claiming only 40,000 miles etc so should be able to run it for a year or two.. assuming they are not clocked?? Does that happen much?

gmogle · December 04, 2005, 05:28:45 PM

I believe Jimmys price is only if you can reuse the housing, end plates etc.

If they are shot then you have to be prepared for a sizeable amount to be put on your credit cards lol.

I think most full rebuilds start from about 2k plus.

One thing I have learnt is when you buy one try and see if it has as much of the bits on it you want. Its darned expensive paying for them afterwards !!!

Miguel at Newera can normally find you one to the spec you want.

Cheers,
Gareth

satch · December 05, 2005, 03:50:21 PM

Quote from: 20B_boyThe RZ is the only one with a different final drive ratio of 4.3:1, all the other (manual) cars are 4.1. The difference isnt exactly noticeable and to my knowledge the RZ diffs are no stronger than any of the others...

The RZs fetch a premium cause they were limited production and have the c/k recaros - although a lot have already been robbed by now!! There are a few other minor differences but nothing worth the extra cash imo.

R.

Oi steady on! :spank
I might be selling my RZ in the new year/spring :evillaugh

20B_boy · December 05, 2005, 03:56:56 PM

Quote from: satchOi steady on! :spank
I might be selling my RZ in the new year/spring :evillaugh

Lol, sry mate.

If its a good low mileage RZ i.e. the shocks are mint and with the seats in good nick then they worth a premium - but most knackered

As for a Â£4K FD - bare in mind that a high mileage (take reported mileage with a pinch of salt too!) car will need may be bushes, shocks, transmission etc in the near future, as well as having a \'used\' interior that doesnt look great after much abuse...

R.

satch · December 05, 2005, 04:09:55 PM

Quote from: 20B_boyLol, sry mate.

If its a good low mileage RZ i.e. the shocks are mint and with the seats in good nick then they worth a premium - but most knackered

As for a Â£4K FD - bare in mind that a high mileage (take reported mileage with a pinch of salt too!) car will need may be bushes, shocks, transmission etc in the near future, as well as having a \'used\' interior that doesnt look great after much abuse...

R.

No offence taken mate LOL!
I just looked at the spec guide and it says that the \'93 RZ has full bucket seats....do they still mean recaro carbon kevlar?
Mine just has standard jobbies :rolleyes:
Your boys in pompey said mine was a gooden though

(i\'ve already started the salesman mode LOL)

Cheers,Paul.

steve b · December 05, 2005, 04:24:23 PM

Quote from: 20B_boyLol, sry mate.

may be bushes, shocks, transmission etc

R.

only bit there that worries me is transmission, how does the gearbox standup in these cars, can it handle power increases ok? Whats the weak part? i.e .MR2T\'s 3rd & 4th syncro getting crunch at high revs is the start of disaster.

Plan on a full set of Teins and pillowball bushes as it\'s going to be primarily a track car, so suspension worns not a concern.