rusty the clown.

[FD3SNuttah]

posting pics of how my project RX is goin. i have all the bits i need. just need to fix a few holes in the floor, take out dents and then prep the car for painting (velocity red perhaps?) i have all the small bkts that were missing / broken and got the headlamps working again, and two good condition front wings

anyway like most other T2\'s out there this one is a bit rusty on the drivers side the passenger side has been welded up already by someone..



Here are a couple of pics of the floor.

this is the bottom of the firewall on the drivers side where it curves round and the body streghening box section came apart in my hands.




this one is pretty much self explanatory




heres an interior pic its in pretty good condition.




engine bay





here he is on my drive






biggest problem is the rusty holes. i  have got myself an arc welder. havent ever welded before but have read a few articles on the net. I will obviously have a practice go before doing anything to the car,

or i could pay  a local classic  car restorer 300 quid to do it, three days he thinks it will take.

thought about having a bash at it myself, i only really need the rods and steel sheet. just time consuming

[Brett]

Looks like yours has gone in a similar place to Stu\'s mate, and the floor pan seems to be pretty much par for the course on these cars.  My floor pan was only held in by wishfull thinking!

[Brett]

I see you have an aftermarket Blow off valve in there, I\'d photoshop that out of the picture unless you want Grinder to try and buy it off of you..........

[grinder]

already spotted it matey !!

the 2nd pic is the same where mine went - dead easy to weld up to be honest

you dont need to be overly neat aswell as Mr. MOT man cant see if from the under neath and cant lift the carpets

my hole started that big - my advice - get a hammer and chisel and start opened the hole up - one of mine was the size of a 10p by the time i found solid metal it was about 4 inch long

get practicing on some scrap metal - use thin rods in the arc welder - then get welding the car !!

like i said pic 2 is simple , weld a bit , bend a bit , weld a bit

go out and purchase a ball pein hammer - they are FANTASTIC !!

you weld to all the flats and then bend the metal into the orig shape of the floor - really easy and adds strengh !!

if you were closer i would have come down and lent a hand ( on that point - where are you based ?? )

do all that they prob pay someone to do the jacking point place - thats a right pain - took me ages to get mine looking anything like !

keep us updated on how this goes - we need more TII\'s on the road

ta

stu

[FD3SNuttah]

haha i knew you two would be the first to be posting in this thread!


mate the BOV sounds terrific but its not for sale!! that came on the car and its got a decat too, the ECU has been taped back up too, wonder if its been fettled/fixed? it drives pretty well maybe its got a FCD where would you locate it???

it shouldnt be too hard to do the welding, thanks for the advice stu,  If i take my time i should be ok with it, just outta interest you used 2mm thick sheet didnt you??? these pics dont show the new front wings and bonnet scoop.

Might challenge you two on that 100 mph terminal speed!!

edit -- im based in Doncaster - just near Sheffield. NOt toooo far from chorley!  

[Brett]

My FCD plugs into the pressur sensor on the left hand side of the engine bay (your photo) in front of the suspension turret.

[grinder]

i used 1mm steel - easier to work with - not sure if that helps ??

sheffield - yeah its a fair trek away !

[samfc3s]

Turboinnutah- You from Donny too??I used to live in Cantley for  few years but now i m back in Manchester....i also have a Fc but in White..Luckily it doesnt have any rust on the car at all! Must meet up sometime in the future then

[FD3SNuttah]

yeh sounds good. i live in bessacarr just down the road from you!! Next time you down give me a buzz on here or something mate! Oh yeh you might wanna check out donnycruise.com im a mod on there.  --- is that your fc in the avator? looks mint!

[grinder]

if the car is drivable - you could always bring it up here for some welding - we should bebale to get the inside done in a few hours )

just a though ( well the better half mentioned it )

ta

stu

[FD3SNuttah]

hey stu, thanks for the kind offer! im going to get some metal for it tomorrow, i got the weekend off so im gonna have a stab at it then!

your missus did have a good idea but there is a small problem, I dont have an mot or tax. lol and half the floor of the car is missing too pmsl. otherwise i might have taken you up on the offer! thanks anyway stu your a diamond geezer! btw remember that i will need those rear lights from you at one point!

which show was it you was going to? the one up at york at the end of the month?

[grinder]

hiya matey

right then ... simple steps for you ( for the inside )

1 - remove seat
2 - remove mazda trim on the sill
3 - pull the carpets back ( i wedged mine with a piece of wood against the door and the carpet folded back over the hand brake )
4 - pop the clips holding the wires that run down the sill
5 - if you want you can wrap this in a damp cloth - although i didnt
6 - smack hell out of the hole to get back to solid metal
7 - measure the hole
8 - add 15 - 20mm to that measurement
9 - cut metal
10 - fold the metal at 15-20mm ( make it an L shape )
11 - i welded the 15-20mm side so the box seciton - just tack it at one end first
12 - tack weld the same end but floor side
13 - get all ball pein hammer ( one with the ball on the end )
14 - hit abour 3 cms from where you have just welded to fold the metal to the car ( the weld holds it ) - or if you have a helper get them to hold the metal onto the flat points of the car floor and weld all of them ( you can then hammer the metal into the shallow bits - and yes it will fold that far )
15 - tack weld this
16 - do the same on the box section
17 - repeat until the plate is in and looks ok ( and is solid )
18 - you can now weld the whole plate on
19 - i gave mine 2 coats of hammerite paint
20 - rebuild car

i managed to get some plates in that were over 50cms long on the inside , but others were only like 15 cms long

use common sense and make the plates a managable size !!

hope this helps ( yeah right eh !! )

and the meet is 14 August at wakefield - if all goes to plan im going there - i will throw the lights into the boot ( i took them to RSII but didnt know if you went or not ?? )

shame about the car having no MOT and TAX - did you buy it like that or have they just expired

oh yeah - whilst you have the welder out - its worth checking the inside on both side - and check the bottom of where the spare wheel goes ( gets soft in there )

thats enough from me i think

good luck and if you need more advice - give me a ring < removed >

ta

stu

[Brett]

I\'d also recommend going over the area you intend to weld to with a rotary wire brush, that way you get good clean steel to weld to.

[grinder]

oh yeah good point

and to remove the sound deadening - use a chisel and chip it off a bit at a time

[FD3SNuttah]

what about the underseal - shall i dig out my heat gun? i have got some sound deadening sheets that you can stick on so replacing it shouldnt be a problem. i might have a few sheets spare actually if you need any stu. gonna buy you a drink when i see you!  :guinness

hey thanks for the instructions!!!  maybe you should make a sticky on how to repair rust on the TII!!  :chat