5 Reasons for engine failures on RX7\'s

[MillSpeed]

On the subject of 2-stroke oils and the benefits they offer in keeping the engine internals clean, has anyone seen the oil metering pump adapter from Rotary Aviation? It lets you have a separate reservoir of 2-stroke oil to feed the metering pump rather than drawing from the sump. One of the original reasons for not using synthetics to lubricate a rotary was that when they were injected into the engine and burnt they coated the internals with sticky deposits. I know with modern synthetics this isn\'t such a problem, but at least with an uncontaminated supply of 2-stroke oil you know your rotors are going to be well lubricated and you\'re free to exploit the benefits offered by having a modern synthetic in your sump (high temp stability etc.). Plus it also avoids any effects traditional pre-mixing might have on your injectors.

[MillSpeed]

Here\'s the link:-

http://rotaryaviation.com/oil_injector_pump_adaptors.htm

[petemillis]

\'kin excellent idea - I like it.
The only downside I can imagine is people forgetting to fill the oil res with oil. I\'ve seen is happen on bikes. But I suppose a level indicator wouldn\'t be much of a hassle to install.

[Wav]

Also I think some of the original mazda oil seals react badly over time to some synthetic oil causing them to break down. So if you were to do this I\'d make sure that your engine had been rebuilt with the newer type (i.e. synthetic friendly seals) of oil seals in place. So this may also be a conisderation, as I know the RA oil seals are viton or something similar and have no such reaction to using synthetic based oils.

Paul:)

[petemillis]

Shouldn\'t synthetic 2 stroke motorcycle oils be fine though? Especially when you consider they\'d be mixed in fuel at a ratio of 100 to 1, as opposed to a how splodge of neat oil sitting in the engine.
I suppose the oil in the sump is a different matter though.

[Wav]

Originally posted by petemillis
Shouldn\'t synthetic 2 stroke motorcycle oils be fine though? Especially when you consider they\'d be mixed in fuel at a ratio of 100 to 1, as opposed to a how splodge of neat oil sitting in the engine.
I suppose the oil in the sump is a different matter though.

Yeah I was referring to the sump oil being synthetic, the oil injected into the rotors via the OMP shouldn\'t get anywhere close the rotor or other internal oil seals, so I\'d imagine a synthetic 2 stroke motorcycle oil would be fine.

Paul:)

[Tintin]

Originally posted by chrisBoid
A trickle charger; plugged into the mains and connected to the battery, I use one because I may not drive the car for 3 weeks.

I use one of those solar battery chargers ( obviously not suitable if your cars in a garage )  , I had a problem a few years back with my alarm flatening my battery on my Megane Coupe when left for a couple of weeks so I got one of these and I\'ve never had a problem with a flat battery

[davegttph1]

So how will an engine flood exactly? I presume the longer its turning over the more fuel goes in unburnt? or when its flooded it wont start at all? is that right...

only just got my rex and Im trying to work out the best way of using it, rather than obviously starting it and leaving it on choke at 1500 revs warming up its better to just get moving yes?

Dont want to be doing something wrong and finding out when its too late.  

Thanks

Dave

[davegttph1]

anybody?

[Oedipus Rex]

generally flooding accurs if you start it up from cold reallly briefly and then turn it off again. Say getting it out of the garage, then leaving it. As far as I\'m aware engines in good nick are not particularly prone to flooding. It\'s never happened to me, ones with low compression tend to be the culprits I believe.

[davegttph1]

OK fair enough, so apart from the normal damage that would occur on the average engine theres not much to worry about to say start it, drive it 2 miles into town, pick up a DVD (for example) and then drive the 2 miles home??? not causing any lasting damage???

[robedwards99]

Originally posted by davegttph1
OK fair enough, so apart from the normal damage that would occur on the average engine theres not much to worry about to say start it, drive it 2 miles into town, pick up a DVD (for example) and then drive the 2 miles home??? not causing any lasting damage???

I\'ve read through dozens of threads on here trying to find the right answer to this one and I don\'t think there is a right answer!
From what I have gathered the 7 doesn\'t like short runs very much, shortens the life of the engine...
I have made the presumption that you should drive for 15-30 minutes everytime you start the vehicle to ensure it is fully warmed up... this should also ensure you avoid the flooding problem from stop/starting.

As I am still awaiting delivery of my rex this is just knowledge I have gained from reading up on here and other places around the net!

Those of you with experience.... Please do correct me if I\'m wrong!!

[zevans]

Just out of interest - recommendation for the Renesis is to let it idle for 30 seconds from cold start before moving it.

Gurj, I don\'t think it\'s using it every day that\'s bad for it, it\'s everyday use - ie queueing and on/off cycles.

Short runs not going above 2750 are probably not very good for it at all, even in the interests of economy - rotaries aren\'t efficient at low revs. In mine you want to aim for changes to stay in 3000-4000 interval, and yours will be the same off-boost.

Incidentally, NO car will like the 2 miles + 2 miles run, but we all have to do it from time to time...

BTW, not just the engine - brakes, bearings, bushings, and the drivetrain all go through heat cycles too. My gearbox doesn\'t get warm until a good couple of minutes of driving under load, so there\'s another reason not to put 7000 revs through it until warm.