Messages

It\'s not a switch, it\'s a sensor. And yes, it needs to be earthed through the body.

It sounds like you are using terrible tyres (I\'m guessing rock-spec from japan) on an unaligned car with knackered bushes.
Chances are it\'ll be horrible to drive unless you address at least these things.

Sounds like the stock BOV isn\'t opening. Check the actuator pipework to it.

Should be perfect

I certainly don\'t agree - that\'s a potential fire hazard. The starter will most likely pull more than that. I use stuff rated to 240a with a breaker at 150.

Don\'t muck around and under spec cable for high current loads. Electrical fires aren\'t pretty.

[The good bits]

It\'s with a heavy heart that my wife\'s car is up for sale. As secure as cable ties are, I\'m not sure that they should be used to fix a 1 year old to a roll cage, so something with more seats, more ISOfix, and less fun is apparently required.

• 1998 R MX5 - Japanese import
• 68k miles, although this will go up as it\'s still in use.
• 1.6i - 120bhp
• \'Chaste White\' - rare colour as only available on imports.

Tax until the end of August
MOT until Feb next year

Basic factory fitted stuff: Electric Windows, PAS, ABS, AC, Heated glass rear window.

The good bits

• TR Lane GPV Roll Bar with additional harness bar (compatible with the glass rear window - far less chance of becoming a human pancake should the worst happen, and stiffens up the chassis very noticeably)
• ABT \'A3\' wheels (16x7.5 et30)
• K&N Air Filter from a speedboat.
• Aftermarket springs.

Cambelt, water pump, and aux belts changed about 5k ago.

 Some spares included, such as original airbox, couple of coil packs, some ignition leads, a few sensors, steering wheel boss, and a spare cam cover if you\'d like to paint it up to look all shiny.

Serviced about 3k ago - new plugs, fully synthetic oil, filter.

 
Bad bits (I\'m not good at selling cars as I tend to be a little too honest):

• Only advisory at the recent MOT was a worn front drop link, which is on order and so will be done shortly.
• Rear arches are solid, front chassis rails are solid, sills are starting to show some signs of corrosion, but according to the MOT tester \'there\'s a good few years in \'em yet\'. This is basically par for the course with an MX5.
• Hood has some splits - with a bit of duct tape it\'s weatherproof

Runs faultlessly, as you\'d expect from a 68k car. Very tidy inside, good bodywork.













Full set of pics here:
http://s140.photobucket.com/user/Simon_r_hill/library/Jemima/ForSale

We\'re after £1650, which is pennies for something with a long MOT and a whole lot of summertime fun to give.

If you\'d like to bring your own wheels I\'ll knock £200 off the price, and another £200 if you don\'t want the roll bar (but I\'ll need the time to remove it).

Swaps/PXs will be entertained, but only for something entertaining.

Car is based about 5 miles from Stratford Upon Avon.

Thanks
Si

Who installed the engine?

Not really, couldn\'t give mine away as nothing could tell me what it was mapped for, and will be mapped for Jap fuel anyways. Pretty much useless here in the UK.

As said, it would work out much, much cheaper to buy a car with everything already taken care of.

If you don\'t already have it, you will need (amongst other things, and ignoring brake and suspension upgrades)
Turbo Kit (including air filter)
Fuel system upgrades (rails, pump, FPR, injectors, lines)
Larger intercooler (if you don\'t already have one)
Larger radiator/mint condition stock one (to cope with the extra heat generated)
Good clutch (don\'t cheap out on this part)
Ignition upgrades (leading coil/ignition amplifier/new leads)
New plugs (more expensive than you\'d think)

Plus the cost of porting etc.

If you are looking at the 400\'s or so then speak to DanDan - his car will be up for sale soon and mechanically, everything that needs doing is done. Plus it has a relatively recent rebuild, is ported, and has makes very good power from very low revs. It\'s also got some awesome other touches that are pretty unique.


Porting is an art. To say it\'s easy and just grinding metal is short sighted, and hugely insulting to the guys out there that do it well. It\'s like saying that that dude who build a tiny V12 isn\'t really that talented - it\'s just cutting metal, after all.
Likewise, programming computers is just typing, writing a book is just scribbling letters.

I do believe there are 2 triple rotor manifolds available. Single scroll and twin scroll. T4 footprint.

How does a twin scroll manifold work on a triple rotor?

It\'s not pointless - ever been in an FD in the summer?!?! It\'s a tiny cramped cabin in a car well known for creating craploads of heat! Start tuning the car, and it gets even worse!

It\'s one of the things I\'ve done that I wish could be undone - I pulled mine because I couldn\'t fit my cooling config in place with it still present. I really miss it.

Don\'t worry too mucha bout the cold air feed -a few degrees won\'t make much difference after it\'s been squashed, expanded, cooled, etc.
Won\'t really help with heatsoak either - the problem there is the sensor getting battered by heat rising from the engine. For best results move the sensor to somewhere not having heat shot at it, (elbow is the usual choice) and ge ta fast reacting temp sensor from eBay.
IMO there are far better things to spend your time and money on than a cold air feed on a turbocharged and intercooled car.

And 90-something is fine for the water - due to the pressure it\'s not even boiling at 100. Start to worry when it\'s up near 120!

Heat is the enemy of these cars. some of the first mods for FD\'s should be radiator and IC IMO.

This thred haz menny funniez.

Make sure you use the right hard line fittings. Too many people use the flareless sleeves that are only rated to about 50PSI or so. With a stock ~38PSI base pressure most people will easily pass that.

http://www.the-polisher.com/