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Messages - chr1s

#1
Items For Sale / J reg fd for breaking
July 04, 2014, 11:17:42 AM
How does £20 + postage sound for the mud guards? Please email me at cftolhurst at hotmail.com

Thanks, Chris
#2
Items For Sale / J reg fd for breaking
June 23, 2014, 12:42:08 PM
If those are standard rear mud guards (black) I can see, I\'ll take them at the right price.

Chris
#3
Thanks Martin, I did suspect the main filler cap as I have never replaced this. I will try a new one and see if it improves. I only ever fill from this location.
#4
My AST cap has a spring in it, the central filler cap has no spring, I can\'t mix them up because they are different sizes. The alarm always stops after about a minute driving. I haven\'t added any coolant for the past few runs and the level in the filler seems to have stayed constant about a couple of inches below the top when cold.
#5
The AST is aluminium so I doubt it has failed. I think perhaps I have been overfilling it as the AST is full to the brim and the overflow tank is higher than the full mark. What I don\'t understand is why the coolant warning keeps going off even when there is coolant visible in the filler? Also is it normal for the AST cap to let coolant through?

I just looked for bubbles in the filler neck and can\'t see any. Engine was rebuilt not that long ago and always starts first time.

Chris
#6
Hi, wondering if anyone can explain what is going on with the coolant on my FD?

Every time I start the car from cold the warning light/buzzer comes on and then goes off after about a minute of driving, this only happens when the car is cold. The level in the central filler seems to always sit about 2 inches from the top just under the small hole. Even if I top the filler up to the brim the coolant warning comes on then goes off and then next time the car is cold the level has dropped again but coolant is always visible in the filler.

The AST is full to the top, the AST is aluminium and has a nearly new cap all the hoses are tight. Today I noticed some coolant had escaped from the top of the AST although it was still full. The overflow tank is showing higher than the full mark on cold.

No champagne bubbles in the filler when the car is running.

Anyone able to give any pointers what to look for?

Thanks
#7
Items For Sale / Rear Toe Link Bushes
October 15, 2013, 04:13:39 PM
2 x FD01-26-230 Rear Toe Link Pillow Bushes

Brand new from Mazda current retail @ £77.87

Looking for £60 each
#8
I\'ve had the vibra technics mounts on my FD for a few months and they are great. Initially replaced my broken stock mounts with solid aluminium but for me the vibration was too much at low speed, having said that you can\'t beat the solid mounts for feel once you get moving.

The vibra technics mounts are a great compromise for the road IMO there is no noticeable vibration and they hold the engine well. Made me realise how bad my stock mounts were! Highly recommended.
#9
I suppose it could be some cars had this feature and some didn\'t. Mine is a Type X so had all the extras.
#10
Quote from: Timmy;694321That electrical connection is purely to detect whever the seat belt is in use the seat belt tensioner is completely mechanical and has no electronics at all from what i remember.

I\'ve found all cars of that age don\'t have the best belt tensioning i don\'t think it is a fault.

Well I know on mine the seat belt will stay in the "loose" position when driving and then when I either turn off the engine or press the seat belt release button the seat belt will immediately tighten and retract so there must be some electrical interaction for this to happen.
#11
On mine there is a small black electrical connector under the drivers seat, if you unplug this it makes the seatbelt keep tension like any other car, so pretty sure this is intended. I\'ve always quite liked this feature.
#12
Turblown, not looking for big power just reliability and simplicity, don\'t know what make the SMIC is just that it all aluminium, different to the standard one but more or less the same size. Will go over what needs replacing with whoever I get to fit it.
#13
Quote from: arrouk;676427To get this thread back on track, Chr1s are you planing on doing the conversion yourself or taking it to a shop? If its going to be done by a shop you should have a chat with them as I\'m sure they will have more experience than myself. Also have you considered the other costs such as ECU and possibly an uprated IC or WI?

HTH
Matt

Hi Matt, will probably get someone else to do it tbh, I know my way round the engine bay but don\'t know much about turbos as you probably guessed by the thread! I agree next step is to have a chat with them about it, the T04e does sound tempting. I already have a PFC, uprated clutch and SMIC so hopefully wont need too much else.

Chris
#14
Thanks for all the responses, sounds like the T04e is the one to go for. Anyone have any ballpark figures on what one of these would cost fitted?

Chris
#15
Ok thanks for the suggestions I\'ll have a look at those, I like the idea of the smooth power delivery although still not sure about loosing the low down torque. Are these turbos OK on a relatively stock engine with PFC assuming keeping the boost down?