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They will not get any better John, its easier to clean yours up and spray them. They do look worse in the pic. What i do is get a paint stick and touch up once they are fitted,its about the only way to keep them in good condition.

original tenax fasteners,mix of studs, bolts and washers. All i could find for now but all in good condition. Have a few of the more specialists ones from the front of the hood just below the pockets, these corrode like hell. have two complete and two heads only with nipples on top.

Just open to offers but would like to split between papercut and John as they were the ones asking.

Buy a doner car, it will be far cheaper to swop things over.

I have quite a fair bit of info on these.  Firstly they were made in Germany for Mazda and for the life of me when I was in Germany I could not get hold of any.  They were more than likely an item from the marine industry but that was over 20 years ago and the design has changed somewhat.  The ones you get today are different in that the threads are smaller in diameter and not the \'self tap\' style so you will need to put a nuit on the back of these which is certainly dooable.  You can buy these from Mazda still but at a cost, something like £14 each!! I priced the whole lot up including the plastic washers and that came to over £300!!!

The flat headed ones are specific but you can use standard bolts here as long as you use a plastic washer under all the heads.

I do have a few spares of these but i will not have enough for everyone, they can be cleaned up and painted and they will last a few more years yet. Just let me know what people want.

[will not]

As we are onto brakes you might as well just fit FD front calipers, no difference in performance but less prone to sticking.  The rears will have to stay standard. As a matter of interest the rear calipers of an FD will not fit the FC and there is no need to as the piston is exactly the same size and area so will be of no performance gain other than reliability.  TII brake servo will be a gain, as will fitting a FD master cylinder to it.

The carpet can and could slide from underneath the centre dash but it is held in place by a single \'raised knobble\' just something that keeps it located, if you can get it passed that somehow then it might slide underneath.

There are only 3 things for the cruise control:

Cruise motor
Cruise ECU (by drivers footwell next to fuse box)
Cruise control switch

Thats it, nothing else so its easy to diagnose whats wrong.  For the switch not to engage then something must be telling it not too and this is usually the clutch or brake inputs. (thats saying that everything is working correctly).  Now there is a fault diagnostics built into the cruise ECU and you have to count the number of flashes the switch sends out, the procedure is in the workshop manual.  if you need any of the 3 items then let me know.  Its also worth making sure your throttle cable is not too tight and that the motor can rotate the spindle, it will self prime when you engage, if it does not then you have to adjust it.

have they done a complete bleed? They will have to assist the pedal back up when they are bleeding it though but as stated before its a sure sign of an internal fault, the slave will have obvious signs of leaking but the master is harder to tell but it will pay you dividends to rebuild the pair anyway. I was lucky and got two new ones from USA for about £50( few years ago now!!)

the fuel pump is receiving 13V even at idling and that indicates it might got a aftermarket fuel pump? will give that a check soon as well tho.

This does not mean you have a aftermarket pump its just that someone has obviously done the fuel pump wiring mod to achieve 13v which is quite impressive, that will give you more fuel flow for sure.

The only way to check is to open the lid and see whats attached.  With stock injectors then there would have been no need to upgrade.  It will still be good enough for the BHP its capable off and especially with 13v even with the 880cc injectors.  Thats only FD fueling size wise, although the FD pump apparently is a little bigger.

One thing else, when was the oil changed last? was it the right oil?  Wrong type of oil can cause a whole host of gearbox/clutch problems but none as extreme as yours but with so little else left to check then its worth a try for what it cost.

Lets look at this logically:

1.  Was the old setup ok ie clutch and gearbox working as it should
2.  You installed a twin plate clutch but it grinds
3.  Replaced Clutch slave cyl
4.  Replaced Clutch master cyl
5.  Replaced pilot bearing
6.  Replaced clutch to standard
7.  Clutch adjusted and bled

So whats left:

1. Clutch Fork
2. Gearbox oil
3. Blockage of somesort in feed line? does it bleed well?
4. All the times you bleed it do you get lots of air indicating a leak or is it relatively air free?
5. One other thing to check, get someone to press the pedal and then you check to see how far the clutch fork is moving as viewing from above, make sure you get good movement. Check that the little piston in the slave is the correct length.  The slaves vary from TII to EGI but only in the offset of the mounting holes but i am not too sure on the piston/plunger thing itself. they do look the same internally.

On the end of the pilot bearing is a seal, that needs to be doing its job and as long as that is tucked in nicely then that really sets how far the thing goes in. It does not have to go in all the way.
I never had a puller when I did mine and ended up cutting the thing out with a Dremmel, that really was not the best route but it worked. It was still one of the worse jobs I have done on the FC as there is very little room. A puller is by far the best option of which you have anyway. To be on the 3rd bearing though stinks of something else wrong, I will have a look to see if I have a spare clutch fork.

Not sure on the best way for you to go now as you have tried almost every combination of solutions and new parts that would fix this problem. Is there oil in the gearbox?
I am at Marham this weekend so drop me a text when you free and i will come over and help if you want?

got a steel bonnet in orange you can have for £30 and that just to cover fuel costs but not sure when i can get it too you. Its in perfect condition with a black scoop bar being lambo orange. Need the wifes galaxy to get it too you. if you can get one in the right colour then I would go for that if you can get one.

Then i would say that its the pilot bearing, lot of work and you will need a puller if it is that. Its the only thing common now to all your problems with the old clutch and this one taking into account all the items that have been replaced/new.
More so if the gearbox was ok before.
The only other thing it can be and this was mentioned before is the clutch fork itself,these can and have got bent in previous cases of clutch problems.  If you have to take the box off then make sure your release bearing slides nicely along the shaft and thats its not sticking. Was the release bearing new?

Does this do this in every gear?  reverse gear?

If you are certain that the clutch disc and all other bits such as pressure plate, bearing are all new then there are a few more options left:

Air in the system
Worn pilot bearing
Wrong pedal adjustment

Does the grinding happen when you shift up or down?
Also, an extreme faulty synchronizer can cause an impossible shifting into a particular gear. However, when the affected gear is the first gear and the grinding sound only occurs when shifting from a stop position, but not when downshifting, its possible that the problem is too much clutch pedal “free play”. Free play is the distance that a clutch pedal moves before the clutch start to disengage. In a case of grinding sound occurrence, even when the clutch pedal is fully depressed, the clutch is not fully disengaged that is why when there is a grinding sound when shifting into first gear.