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Well, 10 years passed since I joined this forum!  This makes me a grand pa huh? What should I say, so many thing has changed since my first post even them were not than many of them from my side at all.

However, I would like to thank to Clive, Lise and Glen (huh, whom knows Glen?) for there effort them put into the club over the last 10 years and I hope them will keep it going at least the next 100 years! The club only exist when ppl. are joining the club, so please all of you rotor heads our there, join the club an let us keep it going! From UK and else where, let us just keep the rotary community what it is today, maybe the biggest one in Europe or even one of the biggest in the world!

Bets REgards,
Iwan

lots, lots of money went into that one....

It is a Greddy TD06-25G kit with TypeR Wastegate. The good thing on this kit is, the manifold has a T3 pattern and will accept a GT35R turbo in case you have problems with TD06 turbo.

speaking about the stock twins and from what I know, the 99 TypeR/RS/SpiritR twins and earlier versions are not the same.

If the question is about the 99 twins, you need to tell us which version you mean. If talking about the AT and RB version, them are the same as the post 96 (N3C1) twins, if you are talking bout Type R/RS/SpiritR twins (N3G1), is a different thing.

The older one and post 99 Type RB and AT type twins (N3C1) will support the most power (over 400 ponies).

Myself, the highest power I reached with stock twins was 402HP at fly.

Hope this helps!

Oh no Ashley!!

I was in hope that the rear bearing would keep it going, but things become more worth as expected like I explained to you at workshop. Hope that the Cosmo bearing I installed was fine after your trip back to UK.  

Did you got white smoke while pushing her hard?

Lucky to read you\'ve got home OK, even after few hours on Nurburgring...

Now another example why ppl. should not use Synthetic oils in Rotary\'s  

Best REgards
Iwan

ok guys, i have a major problem with my car (Project-thread)  and need some help or idea\'s. please read the following carefully before posting...!
to make a long story short, tuning my car didn\'t go as hoped...
i\'ll try to describe the problems the best i can, hoping you will do some serious thinking with me, seeing that myself and the guys who were tuning my car, don\'t have any clue on what the hell is going on!
it all starts about 1 year ago when i had some hesitation, and went to my rotary specialist to figure out the problem. it turned out to be a malfunctioning MAF. but in the process of finding the problem we had some hoses changed or unplugged to raise boost. then it hit 0,6bar with no problems or strange noises, we changed it all back to factory boost level. i can remember this: it felt a LOT quicker!
when i started to work on the car last september, the engine was still stock, i had just removed the power steering and A/C, and put on the racingbeat sparkplugs. then i took it for a spin and heard a strange noise coming from the engine and went to check it all out. it sounded like a ticking noise when i hit full boost (stock 0,5bar)
started searching, not knowing what it could be and then i found my ****ed up turbo and thought that was it...
last friday i went to a company, who races FC\'s here in Holland, to get the car tuned.
we started out removing the factory fuel-cut and adjusting fuel @ stock boost (a lower 0,35-0,4bar due to my ported wastegate), no problems there.
all went well and we could be turning up the boost a little.
then all of a sudden, at just 0,5bar, again the same sound! they told me it was detonating like crazy... sounded like someone banging on the floor with a hammer!
we tried many things to figure out where it was coming from, but no luck.
mixture is fine, timing was at zero.
when we advanced the timing a lot, detonation no longer occurred, and we hit 0,9bar.
but then the timing was probably so advanced, that it did not really produce any more power.
they have tried building an engine with non-turbo rotors once and got about the same results.
detonating like crazy on just 0,4-0,5bar
so we compared it to a turboII engine they had, measuring the distance from the plughole to the rotors, they were pretty much the same (a bit hard to measure with the engine in the car) but not that much that it would indicate there would be the wrong rotors in my engine.
that was also almost impossible, due to the fact that i have hit 0,6bar before without any problems.
did a compression test: 6bar on both rotors and all the chambers, which is even a bit on the low side perhaps.
checked the plugs, coils, leads. they all work properly. even put on a stock pair of plugwires instead of the racing beat wires, but with those, the problem was probably even worse!
we decided to stop progress at this point and try to figure out what the problem is before we start spitting out apex seals...! at stock boost there is no problem at all, so i can run it safely for the moment.
so this strange problem was there a long time ago, and all my mods did not affect it and did not make it worse. so it would be safe to say those mods dont have anything to do with it and can be ruled out...
if anyone has any thoughts on this. dont hesitate to let me know!

What ECU do you use? How can you say your timing was at 0 ?

REgards
Iwan

I\'ve seen this car in Option2 Magazine about 2 years ago. The owner of the car is Mr. Yamada, him managed 10,7 back in 2005 with this car. I have a small report about this car in my old Option2, but it in in Japanese though...

REgards
Iwan

Hi Iwan
Try Joerg Rudloff in Gifhorn, He has 20B and some contacts!
Mazda-autohaus-gifhorn@t-online.de
He might be able to help you!!

Just for your info, his RE-A kitted Cosmo was imported by myself back in 2004. Him has no clue on Cosmo or any Cosmo related stuff, therefor I don\'t need to ask him.

I have all the part numbers I need and will order the parts directly from Japan, it seems like there is no "cheaper" solution for our bushing problems.

REgard
Iwan

entering this in the privateers challange?

equiped with original 16 PSI map sensor....

well. 450Hp at one bar?

REgards
Iwan

Hi Ant,

Where did you get the GT35 with a T4 flange ? I\'ve got a GT35 but has a T3 flange.
I know i\'m going to have an issue fitting this and I\'ve been looking into some type of Adaptor flange but this would reduce the space available to mount the thing.

Any ideas ?

All the best

Paul

check US　flee bay for T3-T4 adapters. Cost you 60 USD and will do what you need.

REgards
Iwan

Afraid so Kev, knocking sounds over bumps, had it up on the ramp today for a look see, everything else is solid. Would you believe that it has a Mazdaspeed panel filter? How cool?!

Same problem here! I have all the part numbers for Cosmo and the joins I require are about 500 EUR (315 GBP) !! new from Mazda.

REgards
Iwan

Few option available,

the front brakes are the same as on Familia 323 GT-R aka BG8
 
Very strange in my opinion, the BG8 is something like 900kg in weight, but the Cosmo is a big 1650kg car sharing the same brakes. Mazda is known to build very well thought out cars, but the brakes on a Cosmo is what I can\'t understand.

just my 2p

REgards
Iwan

OK. time for update!

got a nice Garrett T04S turbo for a good price. Removed my T04E, and installed the T04S.

After some trouble with Microtech I have managed a new wiring for Apexi PowerFC, FD version. Installed all the FD parts needed incl.
3BAR map sensor (Bosch type)
FD air temp sensor
FD igniter
MSD 6A ignition amp (well, not nativ to FD)

Stock I/C is a "no go" even on stock car and boost and it was time for something serious  like Greddy TypeR front mount intercooler.

Modified fuel setup with a Walbro GS341 pump, and a set of two 700cc primary and 1000cc secondary injectors.

Build a new engine with:
mild street port
Cosmo 13B Rotors
Cosmo 13B Rotor- housings with FC exhaust sleeves,

After run in, it was time for a dyno, managed 438 PS on 0.8 BAR of boost



 and 450 PS at one bar.  Not bad for T04S compressor and FC engine. The power is at the flywheel so RWHP is about 380 PS.



REgards
Iwan

the RX-8 has FMIC, so we can assume, it has "power" inside

REgards
Iwan

Hi,
this is SARD FPR adapter for FD3S. Ring Clive and him should be able to sort aut this one for you. You should go fo 90° 1/8 NPT adapter, not for the traight one as shown on the picture.

REgards
Iwan