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I use these guys for exhaust components Jamie https://exhaustpartsuk.com

I've only experience with turbo motors, 3 inch systems and quite a bit of overlap so strong exhaust pulses Jamie but on those the resonator seems to work best around 24inch from the downpipe. My default system now tends to be a flexi section right behind the downpipe into the resonator the pics of a larger 1 into 2 resonator system but you'll get the idea.

You've the patience of a Saint with all the custom fiberglass molding............... well done, its a pleasure to watch the progress.

All being well the shape of the  lights work with the finished build............if not blame me I don't mind.
I wish I was up early car playing its up early working on the house extension for me so no Rx's for a good few months yet, I've got the Tesla though so that's fulfilling the adrenaline rush requirement for now.

What's your manifold made of Jarno, from experience if driving hard wrapping the manifold isn't a good move as it holds too much heat there leading to failure. I normally coat and heatshield only pre-turbo and then wrap post turbo on the downpipe.

You can always loose it Jarno. On the orange one I've a Saxo electronic power steering pump mounted just over and in front of the antiroll bar with a switched input from the ECU so it's on at tick over and low speed but switches off at higher speed where you don't really want it. make sure you go for the one with remote reservoir as it makes mounting easier. As a bonus if you get the Saxo high pressure oil pipe with the pump it fits straight into the FC rack pipe fitting. Another way of getting rid is a electronic column modification however they're heavy beasts so no weight saving over the pump assembly the only plus is you could use a pwm output and give yourself variable steering weight. In theory It's possible you could control the pump the same way through a solid state relay however I've not tried that so couldn't comment on how successful it'd be.

How about taking that a stage further and a Britax L78 https://www.beaconsandlightbars.co.uk/Britax-L78-series-Rear-LED-Combination-LightPN-L14.11.12.html

I know who to see as the master of solid works when I want some more parts designing for the 3d printer, I normally end up making dummy thin wall prints for mocking up purposes before the main one.

RE a V mount It's just a slightly different radiator intercooler set up.
Essentially three variations of a theme top mount is with the rad in the traditional position with a intercooler above the engine the big down side to this is heat soak plus point shorter pipe runs
Front mount the intercooler is in front of a traditionally placed radiator it necessitates longer pipe runs and obviously as you've a heater in front of the rad air temps passing through it are higher and tend to have less velocity offsetting this is cooler combustion air temps to the engine and less heat soak.
V mount has the cooler horizontally mounted (ish) with the radiator below and cantered back with ducting you can get full velocity ambient air temps to both rad and intercooler at the expense of more engineering and possible space issues.

A modified Koyo in one V mount set up the seconds running a mishimoto RX8 rad and intercooler shoe horned into the V.

Looking on the positives the car's obviously performing well and Clive will of had some fun carving through the field.
The battery issue is getting to be a bit of a recurring theme though maybe time to accept a slight weight penalty and either upgrade or run a second race battery in parallel.

Jarno if your stuck for local tuners and get gauges on fuel pressure etc and a decent wideband there's options for remote tuning either live on a local dyno or over a number of days via datalogs.

Devcon's about as good as it gets Jarno easy to work with a good finish and hard as rock when it's gone off but having said that I'd personally not be using it internally in the engine..............your call though

Jarno I've no experience of this issue but i'd be dubious of using chem metal personally. Welding isn't a big risk if done properly, the usual procedure with cast is to put in in a oven first to fetch it up to temperature prior to any welding, you will want someone with a DC welder, cast rods and oven though.
At least with weld the filler will have the same expansion rates as the housing with even the best chem metal something like devcon your expansion rates are likely to be dissimilar and over such a small area mechanical bonding limited.

We're up for this one again, we may do as Jarno suggests and tag a day on either side this time.

By default when working on electrics I add a liberal coating of dialectic grease to any connectors I'm working on, it stops corrosion issues in there tracks and as a bonus makes future disconnecting / reconnecting easier.