S122A project commencing

[Eccentric shaft]

Right. Back to those badges. Did some first experiments today. Think I got it more or less right on the C-pillars and the front wings. The "Coupé" badge probably needs to come down a few millimeters, though. The recipes for success are as follows:

C-pillar: a) extend the line of the gutter. b) extent the line of the lower rear side window trim. c) Mark the point where these two meet with a vertical piece of tape. The center of the badge goes onto the top line with the whole emblem in front of the vertical one. Simple as that.

Front wing: A bit more tricky. Most cars have the badges too high up. I'd like to go slightly below the original. A common fault is to forget that the left and right badges are identical. They have to be aligned to the border of the red center, not the outer edge. Otherwise the position on the car's left will be different from that on the car's right. Clear as mud... You'll see this when I make a video one day. I take the rear corner of the bonnet as starting point for the vertical line. The badge goes behind this one. For the line aligning the top of the badge, I chose to go 135 mm up from the sill trim strip.

Boot lid: I think got it in principle, but a minor adjustment needed. a) The tricky bit is to get the angle right, so I start by taping up the line between the two tappets on the back of the badge (I have cut these off, since I don't want to drill any holes in the boot lid). This is the correct horizontal line. b) Mark the horizontal line along the boot. Easier if you mark the top of the Mazda emblem in the middle, so you can see that they are nice and parallel. c) Mark the vertical line along the boot lid edge. d) Now the badge is easy to get in the right position. Only the distance from the lower end is a bit of a guess. 

[Jamie R]

Ooooo final touches


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[clive]

I really do admire the thought that has gone into these badges to get them right.

I do have a little saying that "perfection takes a little longer" certainly applies in this case   

[clive]

Thought maybe this picture would help for badges

[Eccentric shaft]

THAT looks just right! Thanks, Clive! 

[Eccentric shaft]

Yup. After a lot of tape and measuring and head-scratching, I think I got it pretty much as I wanted it. Some camera angles still don't do it justice (and the second pic is wonky). Or perhaps it's just my crosseyed and astigmatic vision... 

[Eccentric shaft]

And now the video! That will be the last of my badge obsessions posts for a while. 

[clive]

I have a saying "Perfection takes a little longer" so take your time to get it how you want it 

[Eccentric shaft]

Well put! As you can see, I ended up with the "fat" antelopes anyway. It was a budget matter. The badges aren't all that expensive, but the postage from Australia is ludicrous. So either I had to wait until I order a big batch of parts, or i had to do with what I got.

[Eccentric shaft]

One obsession fed. Now enter the stripe obsession topic. This is what it should look like:

But should it be 1) paint, 2) vinyl or 3) foil?

Foil costs 400 quid and lasts what: 6-8 years?

[Eccentric shaft]

New level of worries.

Noriaki's original 12A Twin Distributor engine was rebuilt about 20,000 kms ago, at 48,000 km. Apparently it had overheated. The [add appropriate adjective here] guys who did the job, fitted Rx7 pistons and seals  A minor problem with this is that the ignition timing is altered. The real cause for worry is that pre-1974 engines did not get Mazda's SIP (sheetmetal insert process) treatment. So the steel apex seals from the Rx7 are too hard for the casings and are bound to create excessive wear.

I really should go back to original spec rotors and 6mm carbon apex seals. It's a real pain, since I have to pick the engine apart. I just got the car ready for some driving, so I should probably start by sourcing a replacement engine. Hopefully, that should give me time to have the 12A rebuilt to original spec (and find the dosh for it!).

As far as I understand, the Rx2 gearbox is not compatible with newer 12As, so I might as well look for a complete drivetrain from a SA22C or FB.
That raises its own questions: will the Rx7 12A and 5-speed box slot in the Rx2 easily, or are mods required? To put it mildly: a trouble-free ride and future return to original spec would be NICE! Tips, hints and advice on all aspects of these challenges most welcome!

[Eccentric shaft]

Spare wheel rim came back from the paint shop yesterday.
One satin black wheel to compete with Jamie's set. 

[Eccentric shaft]

Working on your car from 2000 miles away is challenging, so sorry about the lack of updates. However, this does not mean that the age of miracles is entirely over. Our very own Indiana Joneses have been active. Last weekend a barn find was collected in the high north. One Rx2 and one 616 Coupé + a pile of parts and possibly a twin-dizzy 12A for Noriaki. The Rx2 has roof damage and comes with a spare roof. The 616 has rust issues. The buyer's plan is to build one car out of the two. (No, sorry, the boat is not part of the deal).

[Eccentric shaft]

Been to see Noriaki today. First time in 4 months. Front breaks hanging again, so some TLC needed. Brought new plugs and a spare wheel to (the) boot. Battery charged. The go-faster stripes will have to wait for next year (the foil guys are too busy atm), but hopefully we will get out for a wee drive or two before long. 

[Eccentric shaft]

Not so much new to tell, but got to test out my new camera...