All great things have a beginning

[Grant Monkhouse]

Tools needed to remove subframe, along with all the screws and nuts to remove to drop subframe.

Took me longer to disconnect the brake lines and the hand brake cable than it did to remove the rear end

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I’m so glad you ain’t got socks on with them flippers


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Socks and slides

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[Mr Spiller]

Tools needed to remove subframe, along with all the screws and nuts to remove to drop subframe.

Took me longer to disconnect the brake lines and the hand brake cable than it did to remove the rear end

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I’m so glad you ain’t got socks on with them flippers


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Socks and slides

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Is it like the RX8 rear subframe , 6 big bolts holding it then all the pissy 10 mm bolts for brake pipe brackets ?
As for the diff , you’ll struggle however there is an Australian company that does -4.7- 5.1-5.4 wheel and pinion
Could be worth asking what they got , they are on e bay


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[Grant Monkhouse]

Yep 6 nuts for the subframe, 6 for the suspension and 4 for the brakes I think.

Much easier for me as I have taken  everything else out.

Now I'm wondering whether a get my dad to make solid bushings out of metal OR Use polybushing like I have got for the fronts?

Be nice of anyone's opinions on solid or poly Bush as iv no clue apart from the stock ones are getting replaced.

I understand that full blown race cars would possibly use rose joints/spherical bearings which could be a possibility but I'm all ears.

Found a local sand blaster and powder coater. Might have to strip it all down, make it easier to clean etc.

Going to see what colours they do and go for a light colour, nice to look under a car and see how clean things are and that a person has taken effort to sort a car properly

As for a diff, I have found the 3.9 ring and pinions but was hopeful a stock diff came with a 3.9 but doesn't sound like it

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[clive]

E-Bay -----------------there's just the slight possibility they may be a little sub standard!

I had an Irish rally company send me a 5.1 and a box of bits, I actually got my gear box company to play with it because looked rubbish, they managed to get it set up but expected it to last 5minites
I told them if it broke or wore out immediately it was nothing to do with us as they supplied the thing,   

[Grant Monkhouse]

A 4.1 diff ratio will work, I will just have to use more rpm.

Need to gets me a diff in next week or so, as want the car back on its wheels as soon as.

However I can put the diff in after the subframe. I shall see

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[Mr Spiller]

Yep 6 nuts for the subframe, 6 for the suspension and 4 for the brakes I think.

Much easier for me as I have taken  everything else out.

Now I'm wondering whether a get my dad to make solid bushings out of metal OR Use polybushing like I have got for the fronts?

Be nice of anyone's opinions on solid or poly Bush as iv no clue apart from the stock ones are getting replaced.

I understand that full blown race cars would possibly use rose joints/spherical bearings which could be a possibility but I'm all ears.

Found a local sand blaster and powder coater. Might have to strip it all down, make it easier to clean etc.

Going to see what colours they do and go for a light colour, nice to look under a car and see how clean things are and that a person has taken effort to sort a car properly

As for a diff, I have found the 3.9 ring and pinions but was hopeful a stock diff came with a 3.9 but doesn't sound like it

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From experience don’t to go taking them mounts of the standard rear subframe
There’s none which will match what you have from standard Mazda ones , only Powerflex and they are shite in comparison
I’m sure Clive  will agree .
Not sure on diffs sorry ,  I do know some one who Run the 5.1 and bought from Australia which was great but only in a standard. RX8


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[Grant Monkhouse]

Yep 6 nuts for the subframe, 6 for the suspension and 4 for the brakes I think.

Much easier for me as I have taken  everything else out.

Now I'm wondering whether a get my dad to make solid bushings out of metal OR Use polybushing like I have got for the fronts?

Be nice of anyone's opinions on solid or poly Bush as iv no clue apart from the stock ones are getting replaced.

I understand that full blown race cars would possibly use rose joints/spherical bearings which could be a possibility but I'm all ears.

Found a local sand blaster and powder coater. Might have to strip it all down, make it easier to clean etc.

Going to see what colours they do and go for a light colour, nice to look under a car and see how clean things are and that a person has taken effort to sort a car properly

As for a diff, I have found the 3.9 ring and pinions but was hopeful a stock diff came with a 3.9 but doesn't sound like it

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From experience don’t to go taking them mounts of the standard rear subframe
There’s none which will match what you have from standard Mazda ones , only Powerflex and they are shite in comparison
I’m sure Clive  will agree .
Not sure on diffs sorry ,  I do know some one who Run the 5.1 and bought from Australia which was great but only in a standard. RX8


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Not quite sure what you mean?

Are you saying the mazda bushings are better or the power flex ones?

The ones in there now have got a fair amount of play and have never been changed that's for sure.

Something iv noticed on the driver side rear wheel arch is that it is covered in grass. Whoever owned the car before me definately took it on track and most likely took to try cutting the grass after the rod exited the block

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[Grant Monkhouse]

In bits now

Noticed when undoing the diff mount that the bracket on the subframe flexes a lot?! Worth putting a little brace in there now?

Seems to me it would flex even with everything bolted together. It's not much movement but I can move it with the screw in there.

I'm thinking just some small triangles on either side? Little gusset thingys

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[Grant Monkhouse]

Not a massive update but remived the seat rails from the stock seats so I can use them with my light weight racing seats

Didn't fancy having the seat in a fixed position so I just need to make some brackets out of aluminium, weld/bolt them to the seat and then bolt them to the rails.

Should make for getting in and out of the car a little easier once it has a cage

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[Jamie R]

Kirkeys?


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[boosted]

Kirkey bros

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[Grant Monkhouse]

Yeh kirkey seat, the one I currently have might end up in the passenger seats as its a little snug for my hence frame

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[Grant Monkhouse]

Just had a quick go at removing rust off the control arms and everything with the emry cloth I ordered. Seems to be coming off easy enough.

Wasn't bothered about getting these bits sand blasted as iv got to make bushings for them (aka my dad's making them on his lathe) and they will possibly get replaced down the line as they might end up bending/braking or I just find some more race orientated versions with rose joints/spherical bearings on them etc

Ordered myself a little bench vice that swivels so I can hold the arms and sand them down and drill the old bushings out

Just trying to decide which plastic to use...

Polyurethane
Polyethylene
Delrin
Acetal
Nylon 6
Oilon
PET
Polypropylene
PTFE


So many different plastics but I haven't got a clue

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[boosted]

Delrin seesm the popular choice atmo.

Get youself some Metalmorphises of ebay....its a rust treatment best stuff ive ever used...goes on like painting milk. so easy to use. ive used it on all my mx5;s turns brown crud back to shiny black.

[Grant Monkhouse]

Spoken to plastics company and they have said high density polyethylene (HDPE)

60 QUID DELIVERED, that includes a sheet of stuff for my dad to use for something he needs also.

Was going to ask if anyone knew of a substance I can use to kill the tin worm thanks

The lower control arm I had noticed was bent a couple of weeks ago is now straight, 1 tap with a 14pound sledge hameer has straightened it out

I shall replace it with new though but want to get car back on its wheels soon as I get the subframe back from powder coaters on friday

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