KIMI 3 - Series 3 FB

[Casey]

Next stage was to remove the old master cylinder. Messy, but very straightforward. I syringed out the fluid from the reservoir first - yuck, there was some horrid black sludge in the bottom of the tank!! The three pipe unions released easily, and the two nuts to the servo. The level sensor connector needs to be unclipped too, then remove.

[Casey]

It's a doddle then to install the new master as quickly as possible to minimise the entry of air. I noted there was no gasket on fixing to the servo (I should have checked the parts list to see if there should have been one!), so gave a generous smear of white lithium grease to keep any water out. I replaced the two nuts and spring washers with s/steel.

[Casey]

As expected, there was plenty of air in the system, having replaced the rear hard lines as well as the hoses.

I tried gravity bleeding the two rear calipers and couldn't get it to work.

I tried a vacuum brake bleeder on the rear and no luck either - I think air was coming in via the bleed nipple thread rather then the lines, despite usimg some red rubber grease on the threads.

So, Gwyn was around to use the tried and tested two person method, which worked a treat. Took a while, but no issues until I checked for leaks at the end. I found a very slight weep from one of the rear splitter outlets on the axle. nipping it up didn't seem to help, so decided to undo and refix. a small amount of re-bleeding and all was good

Without the servo, the pedal felt 100% better than prior to undertaking this overhaul.

Time for a test drive then.....

[Casey]

Wow, I'm sooooo glad I did this! The brakes feel so much better - no "softness", just a progressive bite and "solid" feel. No problem in stopping in a straight line with a heavy stamp either. I deliberately didn't go as far as locking up the brakes, but felt they were capable of doing so with a heaver foot.

After a test run I came back and immediately checked the disk temps with an IR gun. The temps across each axle were as near identical as they could be, with the front temps (as expected) being higher than the rear. I did a final visual check for any leaks (none  ) and to confirm no fouling of the front hoses on anything, given the suspension was now fully compressed. All good too.

Another satisfying job with a great result. The stopping power may not be as good as my RX-8, but I'm so much more confident in the brakes now, knowing there is a good feel and adequate stopping power.

[Casey]

And to complete the story, I took the car in for it's MOT today and she passed with no advisories.

 

[Eccentric shaft]

Now, if that isn't a good start to the week, I don't know!    Congrats! 

[clive]

And to complete the story, I took the car in for it's MOT today and she passed with no advisories.

 

   

[Casey]

I'm finally getting around to replacing the faulty fuel sender!

I have had a new one, sourced from Mazda, sitting on the shelf for months, but couldn't face doing the job in the cold and wet weather, as I'd need the garage door open to provide the space needed.

I pumped out all the fuel via a long fuel hose attached to the engine bay hard line fuel supply. Back end then jacked up, the shields/guards around the tank removed (only one reluctant, rusted bolt), the three pipes to the top of thee tank were then marked and disconnected. Three bolts holding the filler neck in place, under the fuel flap, removed, sender connector removed.

All ready to drop the tank at this stage.

[Casey]

A few bolts undone, sender & 3 fuel pipes disconnected, a bit of wriggling to get the fuel filler pipe clear and the tank is out 

[Casey]

The top plate bolts, holding the fuel supply and return lines came off easily and the in-tank filter is remarkably clean.

As expected, removing the 6 bolts holding the sender unit in place was another matter. Four bolts gave a fight, but were removed cleanly. The top two bolts were solidly corroded in place, such that the heads both sheared off. I had to drill out the remains of the bolts as best I could and will need to tap some new threads for replacement bolts- I have some stainless steel bolts, courtesy of Ian Mothersole, who recently had the fuel tank of KIMI 2 out for refurbishment.

Bolt remnants, before drilling out:

[Casey]

As this stage, the plan was to clean the exterior of the tank, give it some rust treatment and apply some protective paint. I couldn't put it back like that 

I've got new fuel hoses and will replace all the existing ones when refitting the tank.

The tank interior wasn't too bad. As far as I could tell, there are only two areas where rust is appearing. I was thinking of the full POR15 tank restoration kit, but it seems overkill.

[Casey]

I also decided to remove the fuel pump and bracketry for some tarting up. I cleaned and POR-15 treated some other bits too:

[Casey]

The fuel filler pipe came up a treat too:

[Casey]

At this point, a miracle happened. A former owner (Dave) had posted up that he had a "New, Old Stock" Series 3 tank available, and he was located only 20 minutes from Brentwood, which I visit once a week! A deal was struck and I bought and collected it 

Dave bough the tank 20 years ago as a spare, so I decided to tart it up a little with a coat of paint topside and some extra bitumen based treatment underneath.

[Casey]

I spent a few hours today cleaning up some minor surface rust in areas it is easier to access with the tank out. De-rusting, de-greasing and metal prep treatment, prior to 2 coats of POR-15 tomorrow, I hope.

Before: