KIMI 3 - Series 3 FB

[Casey]

There is just enough room in the area vacated by the ashtray to position the required 4 SPDT (30/40A rated) relays:

[Casey]

There is a pic of two relays wired up (base-to-base) to fit in the confined space. All connectors are crimped, soldered and heat shrink wrapped, using 15 amp (minimum) wiring where they feed the window motors. One pair is needed per window circuit.

[Casey]

Here are the two new wiring looms in position:

[Casey]

Finally, an aluminium plate I made to fix over the ashtray aperture, using the existing screws and fixing points.

Externally, nothing (bar the ashtray plate) is visibly changed and everything could be easily converted back to an OEM state if needed. No changes were made to the car-side loom wiring. All now fitted back and I have two working windows again 

[Jamie R]

Nice work Malcolm


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[Casey]

Why, thank you, young man. No fibreglass was involved though, otherwise it could have been a disaster 

[Casey]

Fuel gauge on Kimi 3 isn't giving a reliable reading 

Most likely the sender. I might be able to remove it and repair, but others have said that's only a short term fix and they often fail again aftre a month or two, so managed to get a brand new one:

[Casey]

It's really strange that the sender for a Series 3 has a low level sensor, but it is not used on UK spec cars. Given the thirst these cars have for fuel, that's a surprising omission. Just for the sake of a length of wire, a simple detection circuit, and bulb in the cluster?

I'll see if there is a way to wire it into an indicator light of some sort.

Biggest issue will be removing the old sender, which may well have rusted fixings 

[Richnzj]

I replaced mine it's an easy job but be sure that the old and new sender Arms are the same length and throw
Got mine from mazda  Japan oem matching numbers but have slightly different arm lengths that only gives you 3/4 to 1/4 tank
I also looked at trying to fix the old one but after 40 years the sender wires are worn down to nothing and not making contact any more

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[Casey]

I've not had time to install the new fuel level sender yet!

However, the MOT is due next week and I've not been happy with the feel of the brakes for a while now (even though they work OK and stop in a straight line) so decided my priority was to do a major brake overhaul, given most of the brake parts are original and so nearly 40 years old!

A set of 5 HEL braided flexi hoses has been acquired - bought because I know they have been successfully fitted to several S3 RX-7's and fitment was good.

New Mazda OEM brake master cylinder has been acquired - thanks here to Clive for locating and supplying it!

I will post a rather detailed and laborious set of posts shortly, for the benefit of anyone who decides to tackle this work and maybe, like me, doesn't tackle this job very often. So far, all the new hoses have been installed, including renewing the two hard lines over the rear axle. I plan to bench bleed and install the master cylinder shortly.

[clive]

For the seized pipe, if you can undo the calliper so its floating,  wind the calliper off the pipe.

Then with the pipe set free, use a blow lamp and get just a little heat on the union and it should free off nicely   

[jinx]

Malcolm has read as many Haynes manuals as I have - he knows "should free off nicely" is right up there along with 'reassembly is the reverse of removal' in the wishful thinking stakes! 

[Casey]

Malcolm has read as many Haynes manuals as I have - he knows "should free off nicely" is right up there along with 'reassembly is the reverse of removal' in the wishful thinking stakes! 

   

[Casey]

Here comes the "Haynes-like" but real-life description of an amateur mechanic tacking the brake hydraulic refresh. For those who have done this many times, it'll be a bit boring!

First task was to crack the wheelnuts all round and get the car up safely on stands, then all the wheels off.

[Casey]

To stop the fluid leaking out too rapidly when removing the hoses, I placed some plastic under the master cylinder cap to create a vacuum.