My Rex rebuild

[mikey-t]

Actual spec
Ported anti surge compressor housing, 61 mm Billet compressor wheel, 65mm Extended height inconel turbine wheel, T4 1.00A/R Turbine housing

, here\'s some more tasty pics

[mikey-t]

Decided to fart around doing free stuff today as I have run out of funds for the month,

Stripped the front clip of a bit more tat and decided to stone chip the inner arches and front slam panel, no rot so far so doing my damnedest to keep it rot free,

Also pulled off the arch braces to get them painted up and protected,

Decided to tidy up the front wiring a bit aswell, can\'t pull the front harness as my dash is still in so just a tidy up for now.

[boosted]

Yours looks like mine.....big hole waiting for engine lol!

[mikey-t]

Yeah I\'m in that annoying position where I could have it finished in a few days but I wouldn\'t do it justice, I have spent a lot of money on some expensive parts and a strong engine,
To just bung it in now wouldn\'t be right,
But at the moment I can\'t afford to buy the parts it needs,
I need to bide my time and not get impatient looking at it and do it right

[boosted]

Yes mate its the only way....whatya doing with cooling?

[mikey-t]

Yes mate its the only way....whatya doing with cooling?

Unsure mate, got a intercooler sold to me that\'s in a horrific condition so may cut the end tanks off and sell them or make a inlet pipe out of them,

I have had the offer of a radtec setup, ic and rad at a bargain price but can\'t justify spending on that before ecu / downpipe etc




had a few issues today, got the sump back on with bracing and engine mounts all lovely, went to fit the lightened flywheel, counterweight and clutch and noticed that the flywheel didn\'t have holes for locating dowels to the cover plate,
This has left me with a touch decision,

I could either drill the flywheel, which would have to be very accurate and quite a tough job to drill chromoly properly,
It may also be possible to use no dowels but use shouldered bolts,
Or

I could cut my losses and use the clutch with the old flywheel,

For what little benefit I think I would of gained I don\'t think it would be worth the time and effort of making the lightened flywheel work,


I have sold the counterweight and flywheel and will be using the new clutch on the original flywheel,

Now I have to try and find a decent downpipe or fab one,
There\'s a company in America selling some downpipes v band one end flexi and flange the other so for £109 I think that\'s the way to go as fabbing a item in 3" mandrel bent stainless will run me more then that.

Next up fuel lines, oil lines ,  Oil cooler lines, and power steering lines all in braided / stainless


Bye bye wallet

[boosted]

Bye bye wallet......lol you and me both but will be worth it in the end! Think id stick with the std flywheel as you say.

[mikey-t]

well being that my work is seasonal and its been hard to come by the past few weeks, i have been doing any job they have put to me, just to earn the pennies for this build,


my computer decided to ker:censored::censored::censored::censored: itself luckily i only ever buy apple and even though its 4 years old all work was free, thank you please




me doing what i do best





wouldn\'t fancy rewiring this,





this was actually a wooden mock up of the new thames link system built by siemens, wired by us brits

anyway,
clutch is in now on original flywheel,

brought a set of cheap blanking plates, rather then make my own, $18.00 plus shipping and duty, only need a couple of these so the rest will be for sale soon if anyone needs them




no the ticket was not a winner so this project is still going to run until about june or july.

did find a very good local supplier of anything wiring, he has all the connectors i will ever need etc so for now just got some very good quality loom tape and cable ties and just tidied away the mass of wiring until i need to take the dash out then i will rewire the whole car in one go,

not the best job in the world but it will be waterproof and its no longer rubbing on wheels or bodywork

saved some of the old good insulation and trunking , replaced the front slam panel section





mid way through

[mikey-t]

also went through some of my old pictures and found the first map car i ever owned, mk3 supra! brutal car that was, embarrassed quite a few hot hatches,
unfortunately there was no floor left from the rear seats back so sold it to a drifter who space framed it

[mikey-t]

little update on the shopping list all courtesy of my engine builder at a bargain price that could not be turned down, all new or minimal use and very well looked after,
no pictures yet, no need for these bits really

1 x sard primary fuel rail
2 x siemens deka 750cc injectors
2 x bosch 1680cc secondary injectors
lower inlet manifold with blanking plates
de-cat silencer pipe


next job is fuel lines and oil lines, could anyone tell me what lengths of line i will need and what exact fittings i will need, just so i can go in and get it all done with minimal fuss

i will be keeping everything in tank, but running the lines from the tank all the way to injectors, deleting the hard lines if thats easier to do

[mikey-t]

right silly questions time, experts required,

today i had a look at the fuel system and after seeing the routing of the hard lines i won\'t be replacing them,

so now my question is, what kind of lengths and what fittings will i need to start at the hard line in engine bay and to feed my injector rails, / FPR etc, I\'m guessing it will be some kind of compression fit,

exact sizes and types etc will be needed here be idiots



also
today i pulled off my oil coolers, one will need to be replaced as it is bent, while these are off i would like to replace the hose with something pretty, now these are push in with a circlip lock, is it possible to get this fitment in the ali an style fittings or would i have to replace with a threaded fitment, also same question for the other side going ito the engine, i believe this is some kind of banjo fitting,

also the original lines go from hose to solid to hose etc and they all seems to be a different diameter, would i damage the engine if i ran say an 8/10 all the way through and directly threaded into the engine, would this cause a pressure increase? or does this not really matter,


i just want to have it tidier and i was hoping to just go to pirtek or somewhere similar and have 2 lines made up cooler to engine, push in or thread in job done,


i found a thread on a american site but these guys were all going for weld in adaptors etc and thats not my game


any help is appreciated on this, as i say here be numpties and we need your help

[mikey-t]

i found this but there seems to be a argument raging on about actual fitments and to banjo or not to banjo, i just need a definitive buy this part this part and this part! then bolt up

http://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/braided-power-steer-lines-oil-cooler-lines-anyone-done-them-893188/

[shaunwil]

I used all -6 stuff for the fuel lines with 5/8in Fuel Pipe. To be honest its hard to suggest which fittings you need, it can depend on what is on the end of the fuel rails.

I used standard (and will be again) fuel pipe, can\'t stand the braided stuff. Cuts you to ribbons and it is a bugger to seal. Get about 3m and you should have enough.

Shaun

[shaunwil]

Post some photos of the rails up and we will try and figure it out.

Shaun

[mikey-t]

i have it all together, at the moment its all standard inlet and lower manifold with aftermarket primary and secondary rails,
although if my deliberations go well in the future i will be having full custom inlet and lower manifold,  space for 10 injectors but they can be blocked or used or even incorporate water injection. but thats getting ahead of ourselves, at the moment aftermarket in stock locations,

will get pictures when i have it in the bay