My Rex rebuild

Started by mikey-t, December 28, 2013, 02:43:26 PM

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mikey-t

the paint in question, looks like it didnt even bond to the primer just flakes off on any weak point, next to no colour in it either




making some progress at least


re japi

Wow, that saxo is rotten :D
Power is nothing without control. Weight is enemy of performance, handling and braking.

http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/japi_laukkanen/library/Japi?sort=3&page=1

boosted

Quote from: re japi on July 31, 2016, 06:13:00 AM
Wow, that saxo is rotten :D
All saxos are rotten....

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92 FD rx7 Twins 13.5psi.  EX Track car
EAT SLEEP ROTOR REPEAT.

mikey-t

sooo fun day today, diggers, manitous and credit cards ahoy

stacking like dimes lol




engine is finally back to the stage i was at about 2 years ago




sensor relocated sensibly and out of the way of heat etc





a purchase for another project, the tasty tasty goodness





sometimes i like to sit there in a cloud of smoke and pretend my engine is running


mikey-t

right was mainly working on the saxo engine today but after finding marks in cylinder 4 i got pissed and went shopping instead.

got myself a new odyssey battery to save space, unsure where to mount it as i have a few options, the boot will be busy with the water meth and wiring i am planning so maybe rear seat space. trouble is finding a good flat space to mount it,

also had a few issues with the stud type terminals, if i want more than one connection on the post it tries to short out on the mounting frame, so i got a old bus bar i have cut it in two and bent it and made a take off plate for each terminal allowing me 2 connections per terminal,

not great technically speaking but should work




the bus bar bent up and connected




got the bushes in the arms and new ball joint boots fitted and greased up







this is where i started to get stressed again, the new drop links i ordered came as a pair of lefts so the angle to mount to the anti roll bar was wrong, yet another thing im going to have to replace.

also came to fitting my rose joints / pillow balls and i am missing a spacer, they have been kicking around that long it must have just got bored and walked off, if anyone has any spare or knows where i can get one without buying a full pillow ball kit again please let me know

missing in action please send a friend





as for the piece of shit saxo, thought we was doing ok, head looked great brand new in fact, filled the cylinders with wd and they all held for ages, and then suddenly 4 drained, took the sump off looked underneath and yeah 3 cylinders are immaculate but 4 has some kind of chatter marking at the lower end so looks like a piston ring is moving about,

just when i was starting to fall back in love with boinger engines too




big thankyou to matt at rallynuts and his associates at OPC for the tour around the rally workshop and porsche modifying area.


mikey-t

soooooooooo this is how my paint came off the doors!!!




pretty sure that is not meant to happen,

brought a DA sander and told the girlfriend to bring out one of the dents on the wing with it, i turned round and half my car was on the floor. so looks like i will be sanding and high build primer the whole car before paint  / plastidip

started piecing together the power in the boot, mounting the battery is a bit of a ball ache as there is no flat surface and my side by side with water meth bottle plan failed due to the rear seat supports being a ridiculous angle. so mounted the battery on the back panel. i have mounted a couple of breakers along side this and utilised one of the original earth points.

my big main fuse will sit in the spare wheel well with a lot of other things once sorted. will sir just proud of my false floor and carpet but still plenty hidden. should be a fairly tidy and secure install once im done




had to cut up a bus bar to make a terminal riser to stop anything arcing on the battery frame

for ease of access and to stop any rubbing i cut some clearance gaps etc will line it with rubber when i have time



and with the carpet,, will be a lot flatter when i have my spare wheel cover skinned in carbon and layed in there




few bits missing now to make it roadworthy again but all coming together slowly

boosted

You sure thats not plasti dip already?

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92 FD rx7 Twins 13.5psi.  EX Track car
EAT SLEEP ROTOR REPEAT.

clive

That looks more like the plastic Armour film  stuff you buy to protect paint, did it come off the front of the car?
All the best Clive

mikey-t

definately paint, flakey and thick, looks like they had some real tough base coat of primer or poly a single coat of colour and then to many coats of laquer and none of it bonded to the primer so just peels off, its only on the doors like this and andything vertical so i am going over the whole car now with a DA

mikey-t

well lets just say its amazing the car actually ran and got home, anything they could (censored) up they (censored)ed up and then pissed on after to make sure,

DPO signal wires wired to the wrong inputs, (dpo for boost sensor was wired to idle control valve lol) throttle position sensor had not been calibrated, you name it they (censored)ed it up

so after a hour or so of rewiring (which is all they had to do really) we started getting signals that looked vaguely right.

went to try a turn over without fuelling and the batteries dead, it had turned the car maybe twice so i am guessing i have a severe drain going on somewhere here or the batteries standing capacity is shit i dont know.

after a charge and such we plugged everything in and went to start it and wroooo wrooooo wrooo yep engines flooded or plugs are fouled.
(censored)

so battery is on charge overnight and will be trying again at the next opportunity. if the full battery does not work we have some traditional style starter plugs and spacers to make them fit and hopefully a clean plug set will kick this turd up the front bum and make it run again.

and then its simply a case of hoping they haven't bust the seals up and hoping the electric water pump has the gonads to push some coolant round.

when i run it on a bleed cycle earlier i couldn't even see flow or feel it but i am hoping that is simply because the battery is flatter than a witches tit

may also be an idea to fit the exhaust again as well otherwise a few farm lingering beasts may get a shock (and the cows)

ONWARDS................

Casey

Oh, the joys of FD ownership  ;) ;D

Good following all the work you've been doing though  :PDT_Armataz_01_37:
RX-8 230 Bridgeported: Racing Brake Disks & 4 pot front calipers,Full Racing Beat (RB) SS Exhaust system,RB ARB's F & R,RB REVI intake,Tein MonoFlex Coilovers & front strut brace.
RX-7, KIMI 1, 1st Gen S2, Silver,1983 - SORN
RX-7, KIMI 2,^^Ditto - now sold
RX-7, KIMI 3, 1st Gen S3, Red,1984

mikey-t

sick to death of this bastard car,
today was meant to be the start up and check i still have a working engine day but yet again every possible problem introduced its ugly head,

any advice on the following will be muchly appreciated because i am one step away from strapping on a hot water bottle and dancing on the roof of a flaming rx7


so batteries all charged up and the silly little odyssey thing swapped out with a proper battery we turned it over,
but the starter was labouring and probably turning at quarter speed.

now i know i have relocated the battery but i have a very good earth with 70mm cable less than 8"

and my positive is also 70mm with a 300amp in line fuse all the way to the front, i thought the bigger the cable the less resistance etc but according to some i may be doing more harm than good with a cable of that size.

sooooooo

knowing we had a weak point we got the booster pack direct to bod and the positive main fuse point and gave it a whirl and after ages and ages we come to the conclusion that the plugs are fouled after sitting for so long and potentially flooded.

plugs out dry plugs in we try again and it wants to go its just not getting there. you can here the one rotor start to fire and then it just bogs out and just as we was getting to the point where it could start at any minute the booster pack died.

so yet again another day with no running, a suspect starter motor, a wiring system that doesn't want to wire a race battery that cant battery and yet another set of potentially fouled up plugs.


on a lighter note i have nearly finished the noise protection in the boot, not nearly as intense as when i used to build installs but should knock a bit of exhaust drone out,

one layer of 6mm silent coat followed by a 3mm acoustic membrane

awesome membrane, extremely mouldable and stickier than a bunny boiler on heat





all installed, you can see said wiring,fuse, and lack of working going on right here


clive

Arrrggggggggg, I know what this is like!

OK, when you say proper battery, I presume you mean a full size battery, if need be connect a jump lead to the main starter lead and then a good earth with the other jump lead and connect it to a car that's running.

That combined with the battery on the car should get it fired up.
All the best Clive

mikey-t

well i think we burnt the brand new starter out as we connected a booster pack to the main fuse in and had the race battery in the back and it turned with minimum effort once and then just clicked just like a dead battery but with 2 connected.

i think the combination of severely flooded / oiled up engine, fouled plugs and poor voltage has just thought all together to piss me off.

hopefully will get a new starter or recon this one tomorow, got some brand new 9s to go in and a fully charged snap on battery booster if that dont start it nothing will

mikey-t

right update on todays cluster (censored) of a day

starter motor replaced, lets just say the one i had was not what i was expecting but were good now.

bolted it up battery connected booster battery at the front and my fresh rebuilt engine starter plugs inserted and after a while it would fire and cut out

kept going and eventually it would hold on one rotor and then you try to throttle it and it cut out.

eventually i got it running very lumpy, eyes bleeding rich and smoky and throttle actually responding engine side every now and then eventually any input on the throttle made it cut out

got a video of it running at that point.....


so my mate turned up and we inserted some fresh bur9p plugs in booster connected again and tried again.....

nothing

no matter what we tried we could not get it too start.

here are some stand out points from the day and what we are presuming our next steps should be but at this moment in time i am angry and broke and am taking a step away for a short while before i do something stupid


-- battery in the boot, battery shows 12.00000 whatever its over 12, starter shows the same as does the fuse live etc etc so power is not dropping on standing

turn over the engine once and the battery just drains and it does this with whatever battery i put on it. turn it over and it just kills it dead.

we think this may be a ground issue or even wiring but it worked before????


--all the plugs when pulled were very sooty yes but all dry apart from one front rotor bottom plug....

its not water definitely pre-mix / oil / fuel

we are thinking this is the lumpy running explained here, maybe the engine fires on the 3 good plugs/ coils and then soaking the one plug in fuel that isnt working..

sooooooooo

when i calm down a bit im going to pull the coils out and make sure firstly they have been wired right because lets face it anything is possible,

then i will check the leads are running to the right plugs as i doubt the lads checked down south

i will also have to replace the magnecor leads because apparently these ones do not suit the LS coils i am running..


after that i am lost and have no (censored)ing clue what to do other than burn the shit out of it with any mortal enemies i may have, claim on the insurance buy a camper van and become one of those low and slow type people that spends all there money on making engine bays shiny and smooth and the actual shiny body of the car all rusted and stickery



the painfull business of a non running roTARY

https://youtu.be/M-a10h2f_Is