Rx7 fd upkeep..

Started by GrimR33per, March 03, 2012, 10:34:05 AM

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GrimR33per

Finally!!!!!!

Hopefully picking my first rotary in a few weeks.

But a quick search on my phone is difficult, lol.

Is there a guide of do\'s and dont\'s. I heard on the grapevine no downshifting etc? Service intervals? Etcetc

Want to look after her by the book if there is one. Lol.

Any meets in the NW?:)

Thanks in advance...

m1tch

Hi there,

Here are the key things:

Overheating bad
Running lean on boost bad
Not letting it warm up before driving bad

The key thing to note is that the car isn\'t new, the ancillaries such as the radiators and vac lines get old and can fail, its usually the ancillaries that fail that take the engine out (eg fuel pump, rad or water pump) rather than anything else.

Change the oil every say 3-6k, keep it topped up with fresh as it has a total loss oil system (its ment to use oil, its an issue if it doesn\'t!).

Just remember that its a sports engine, so use good fuel and quality parts, its not an XUD diesel engine lol

My FC is currently on 89k miles, it has compressions of 7.2 on the front and 6.9s on the rear, all owners have waited for the engine to go past \'C\' on the temp gauge before driving it.

The main thing that kills engine is if you go lean on boost, if you do it can detonate causing you to lose a tip which basically trashes a rotor and the housing when the rotor lands on it. If the engine over heats the water seals around the edges can then leak.

The more the engine revs, the better the compression it has and the more oil its gets, the car won\'t like short journeys and you shoud always try and rev it once in a drive. Also make sure that the engine is never shut off when its not yet up to temperature - this can lead to neat fuel being left in the housings which isn\'t good for the seals.

First thing I would do when you get it is to get a compression test done and do a full oil and filter service - I use 10w40 cheap Halfords orange mineral oil and blueprint filters - the oil and filters aren\'t going to be on the car for that long, never had an issue, there is a debate around mineral vs synthetic oil so search first before asking else another argument will erupt lol

hope that helps!

GrimR33per

Fantastic advise Mitch. Thankyou.. I researched all this when i joined, lol.. But forgotten alot now.. So thanks again..

It has Oil temp/pressure and Water Temp Gauges so what temps are the norm?

And how would i prevent running lean on boost? Isn\'t that a mappable jobbie? It has a knightsports ecu..

Comp tests show good compression on both Rotors
Thanks again..

So looking forward to being even more skint ...


Are there any Decent specialists in the North West? Ill take it over to one if i can..

Thanks

m1tch

The temp and oil gauges aren\'t amazing accurate, if you are going for more power over stock its best to get some better gauges, with my FC if the temp gauge ever goes over half way its already overheated lol its best to get an oil temp gauge rather than a water temp gauge, with larger or uprated rads with more coolent the engine could be overheating but will take a while for this to register on the gauge due to the volume of water it needs to heat up, with an oil temp gauge it is directly meauring the oil which is in direct contact with the engine.

What mods does the car have?

Are the compressions even?

GrimR33per

Sorry, i was meant to say it has uprated gauges so can keep an eye on them better. Just wondered what temps would be too high?

Its this one :D

http://www.esperformance.co.uk/car_RX7-Twin-Turbo-\'Type-R\'--Mazda_190_0_index.php

m1tch

Not too bad, glad its got all the gauges,  it hasn\'t got a full decat so you shouldn\'t need to be too worried about boost creep, unsure why it has that style bonnet, that bonnet ie ment for a V mount or FMIC intercooler rather than a standard one, but looks a good tidy car, its got the same sort of compression as my 89k FC :) also as its a type R it will have twin oil coolers :) Its still running the air pump it seems, which will mean the emissions for the MOT should be fine, especially with a sports cat.

GrimR33per

Cheers Mitch..

Will research some more..

frank20bcosmo

Quote from: GrimR33per;814707Fantastic advise Mitch. Thankyou.. I researched all this when i joined, lol.. But forgotten alot now.. So thanks again..
 
It has Oil temp/pressure and Water Temp Gauges so what temps are the norm?
 
And how would i prevent running lean on boost? Isn\'t that a mappable jobbie? It has a knightsports ecu..
 
Comp tests show good compression on both Rotors
Thanks again..
 
So looking forward to being even more skint ...
 
 
 
 
Are there any Decent specialists in the North West? Ill take it over to one if i can..
 
Thanks

WGT Auto developments in Middlewich Cheshire, Pip is a rotary specialist and has been building and maintaining rotarys for years, he has probably one of the countrys best
 
he has just repaired my 20b and rebuilt Mir\'s 20b which is running approx 700 - 800hp,, so you will be in good hands

GrimR33per

Awesome... Not too far away..

Thanks

noyzboy

When shutting it down, I always rev it to 3000rpm and then turn it off on the key.
 This was advice I got for having to move the car without it getting fully warmed up before you turn it off.
 I\'m told it flushes excess fuel out of the housings and minimises potential flooding.
 I do it all the time, hot or cold. Seems to work.

Keep the battery in good condition,as it needs strong battery for starting.

Drive it lots

Martin H

TRIND-FD

Quote from: GrimR33per;814712Sorry, i was meant to say it has uprated gauges so can keep an eye on them better. Just wondered what temps would be too high?

Its this one :D

http://www.esperformance.co.uk/car_RX7-Twin-Turbo-\'Type-R\'--Mazda_190_0_index.php

I have seen this car in the flesh, was down picking some bits off Dave.
And it is stunning. Makes me want to sell mine and buy it.
You wouldn\'t be dissapointed ;)

Keith
V8 fd\'s rock :cool

lockwood77

Beware of that Knightsports ECU, they can\'t be mapped in this country and if it\'s tightly mapped for Japanese fuel, you could easily run lean at full boost. I\'m not saying that will happen - there are definitely people running around in the UK using those ECUs, but it would make me nervous and if you modify the engine side of things at all, you\'ll need something mappable to replace it anyway.

GrimR33per

Cheers chaps..

Yea, i know about the knightsports.. Ill try a delve into it more when i see serials etc.

When i start modding or the engine pops, ill get a remappable ecu..

Pantera Chris

About 84-85 is an average water temp. Shouldn\'t really go higher than 95 when on full boost

GrimR33per

Awesome.. What about oils? Thanks