hi there and oops think I have bought a lemon

Started by 123tom123tom, December 01, 2011, 06:51:39 PM

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123tom123tom

Quote from: a.tapos;801697sounds like set of turbos at the very least to me,but thats not a job you want to do on your drive on a sunday afternoon,

I have a car workshop, I own a bodyshop so have plenty of room and tools :D
 
I am having the car tested today for compression, if everything is ok might be looking at the single turbo route.... I have done this before with a supra, got that thing running 642bhp that was a street weapon.:burnout

a.tapos

Quote from: 123tom123tom;801698if there was any major issues though would car not run??? it starts first time every time it seems to idle perfect and drive on the first turbo very well??, it is over fueling badly though? I am confused, I am getting the car pressure tested today, is there anything else i should look at having to done to check the health of the cars engine??

alot of cars will run with horrendous internal problems before they stop,to be honest sounds like it is running rich which will also cause the smoke you are witnessing,first thing id do is stick a a standard ecu on it as they are cheap as hell at the moment and see if it clears up/drives better,problem with chipped ecus is you cant do anything with them over here so unless you know the exact spec of the ecu your just risking it.especially if its set to a bar of boost,that could also be the reason your 2nd turbo is failing
red 93 t88 half bridge fd project,black 1993 fd
a.m.t@hotmail.co.uk

a.tapos

Quote from: 123tom123tom;801699I have a car workshop, I own a bodyshop so have plenty of room and tools :D
 
I am having the car tested today for compression, if everything is ok might be looking at the single turbo route.... I have done this before with a supra, got that thing running 642bhp that was a street weapon.:burnout

good that will help be patiant with it they are fiddly but do able.
red 93 t88 half bridge fd project,black 1993 fd
a.m.t@hotmail.co.uk

123tom123tom

Right I have been looking at putting a stardard ecu back on the car to see if it clears some issues up? Like running really rich
 
I have been looking through ebay, there are several ecu\'s that are the same N3A7 code but every single one has the following code on the ecu and mine is different:
 
N3A7 18 881C  (loads on ebay)
 
N3A7 18 881A  (my code)  none on ebay
 
just wondering before I purchase one, will this matter? The main code is the same don\'t know what the difference is if any
 
regards tom

a.tapos

funnily enough i have got one....
 
N3A7 18 881A
red 93 t88 half bridge fd project,black 1993 fd
a.m.t@hotmail.co.uk

a.tapos

just realised i think mine is a knight sport so will be fuely too.
ive used different part numbers on standard rx7s and as long as the plugs fit theres no real difference,
 
the 1c i believe is just an updated version of 1a/1b
red 93 t88 half bridge fd project,black 1993 fd
a.m.t@hotmail.co.uk

123tom123tom

Quote from: a.tapos;801707just realised i think mine is a knight sport so will be fuely too.
ive used different part numbers on standard rx7s and as long as the plugs fit theres no real difference,
 
the 1c i believe is just an updated version of 1a/1b

 
can some one confirm this please before I purchase if possible????
 
Also the knigh sport version is that remappable??
 
regards tom

HaywardRotary

The ecu you have on already is standard with the exception of being chipped to make more boost. No point in trying another stock ecu as it will be the same regarding the running issues.That having been said a stock ecu would be a good idea to limit boost along with a fairly stockish exhaust at least with the cat still on.
Have you given the car a good service?
We warranty our rebuilt engines for Detonation, track day\'s and RWYB and NOW for 30 months which is two and half years or 30,000 miles
We also build all types of race or road engines.
We build race and track cars too.
Any kind of porting undertaken.
Single turbo conversions.
S

HaywardRotary

If you want power you need an Apexi. the Knightsports ecu is same as yours ie:- a chipped ecu.
We warranty our rebuilt engines for Detonation, track day\'s and RWYB and NOW for 30 months which is two and half years or 30,000 miles
We also build all types of race or road engines.
We build race and track cars too.
Any kind of porting undertaken.
Single turbo conversions.
S

123tom123tom

Quote from: HaywardRotary;801712The ecu you have on already is standard with the exception of being chipped to make more boost. No point in trying another stock ecu as it will be the same regarding the running issues.That having been said a stock ecu would be a good idea to limit boost along with a fairly stockish exhaust at least with the cat still on.
Have you given the car a good service?

 
there car has had a oil service about 3 weeks ago, using  dealer recommended oil? and filter, I believe the plugs have been changed as there was empty boxes in the glove box, they look fairly new??? all these are going to get done today I am going to pull the plugs to have a look at them (check for oil/coolant goo etc) I am going to change the fuel filter...
Is there anything I need to look for whilst doing this stuff to look for or check???
Also the chip on the ecu I know is made to run on better fuel, could this cause problems with the running of the car, I am using momentum 99 ron tesco fuel
 
regards tom

a.tapos

how abut i send you my standard ecu for free to try and you can send it back if its no good,or buy it if you want it,my knightsport is pre programmed not mappable
red 93 t88 half bridge fd project,black 1993 fd
a.m.t@hotmail.co.uk

RobMatthews

Here is a site that seems pretty usefull and should answer a lot of your questions and provide you with the \'rats nest\'.

click here
another site for trouble shooting

I get the feeling your gonna do a compression test with a standard piston tester? This is possible but no way ideal, and the compression tester needs modifing slightly by removing the peak hold pin. so you get a reading on all three faces of the rotor, there is a thread somewhere about it and translates what the readings should be.

The woshing sound your hearing on accelleration could also be just air being sucked in by the turbos rather than a leak,depends on the type of filter on the end of the pipes or the flexi on the shiny pipes my have a split which would cause that sound.  imo that intake system you got on there is not ideal to say the least, but shouldn\'t affect performance unless the filters are clogged or wet-both likely if the are down behind the bumper.
If your sure all the vac lines are correctly fitted and not split/worn-even slightly I would say change them, you can get black silicone to keep the standard look I would look at the solenoids and check them
Here is a guide by a member, solenoid check
On the front of the turbos there are two short pipes which should have restrictor pills in make sure the pipes are in good condition(unless you have aftermarket boost control?)

lso check the wastegates are in good condition and not stuck open or something as if their open the turbos arnt getting the exhaust gas to spool on!
To contact me robmatthews81@yahoo.co.uk

parts supplied by;

DM-Motorsport.co.uk
Pulleys, Filler Caps, Sump braces, wheel spacers, blank plates and more!...............
Info@DM-Motorsport.co.uk

123tom123tom

Quote from: a.tapos;801717how abut i send you my standard ecu for free to try and you can send it back if its no good,or buy it if you want it,my knightsport is pre programmed not mappable

 
done deal mate that is very sporting of you:)
 
do you want my address through here
 
 
regards tom

123tom123tom

Quote from: RobMatthews;801741Here is a site that seems pretty usefull and should answer a lot of your questions and provide you with the \'rats nest\'.
 
click here
another site for trouble shooting
 
I get the feeling your gonna do a compression test with a standard piston tester? This is possible but no way ideal, and the compression tester needs modifing slightly by removing the peak hold pin. so you get a reading on all three faces of the rotor, there is a thread somewhere about it and translates what the readings should be.
 
The woshing sound your hearing on accelleration could also be just air being sucked in by the turbos rather than a leak,depends on the type of filter on the end of the pipes or the flexi on the shiny pipes my have a split which would cause that sound. imo that intake system you got on there is not ideal to say the least, but shouldn\'t affect performance unless the filters are clogged or wet-both likely if the are down behind the bumper.
If your sure all the vac lines are correctly fitted and not split/worn-even slightly I would say change them, you can get black silicone to keep the standard look I would look at the solenoids and check them
Here is a guide by a member, solenoid check
On the front of the turbos there are two short pipes which should have restrictor pills in make sure the pipes are in good condition(unless you have aftermarket boost control?)
 
lso check the wastegates are in good condition and not stuck open or something as if their open the turbos arnt getting the exhaust gas to spool on!

found where the woooshing sound was coming from today, it was a pipe that feeds air back into the air intake pipes (metal shiney intake pipes), it had come out air was rushing into the engine bay and not back into the intake.
 
I also took the car on a long run today to try and figure out what is happening, I found if I ease the power on instead of trying to WOT, I can manage to get the 2nd turbo to come on line I think with out any spluttering back firing and all that crap. As soon as I WOT the car though it is the same old story.
 
Took the plugs out today leading plugs where really sooted up trailing plugs weren\'t that bad, I cleaned them up anway.. no sign of oil on them though.
 
Compression test hmmmm not sure it was accurate (hoping it wasnt anyway), I had already read up on doing this by taking the tyre valve thingy out of the compression tester, removing pump relay and making sure the car was warm before i did the test.
 
Results where: front rotor, 75,75,75 psi
rear rotor: exactly the same more or less  
 
Hoping these results are wrong obviously!!!! The car runs fine ad dandy and start on the first turn of the key with no hesitation what so ever.
 
Champagne test: no bubble or fizzing what so ever
 
oil loss: none what so ever...
 
I AM LOST :confused::confused::confused:

stylus350

I found taking twins off the FD easier than a 2J. Still a pita though :)