1680s don\'t fit into LIM?

[m1tch]

Looking at the photos and things on what I have it seems that they are 1 grommit size too high, will check when I can to see if there is the original grommit still there or not, if there is I will remove which will then probably drop down the spacers to the correct placement *crosses fingers*

[m1tch]

Right, just been outside to check if its just a grommit and it seems that there are just the plastic diffusers. Is the LIM gasket ok to reuse or do I have to buy yet more parts to get my car on the road?

[bumpstart]

you will find you needed to remove the plastic atomiser all together
- or space the rail mounts up appropriately with washers

you can fish the atomiser out with a pick,, but they are easily broken and i advise that is best done with the LIM removed from engine

if the LIM gasket came away intact then it should be fine to reuse, if in doubt, give it a ( light ) smear with some RTV silicon ( sensor safe stuff if you still use the lambda sensor )

there is ooodles of posts world wide on how to modify the 1600 or other 14mm top/ 16 mm bottom  injectors at each end suit the mazda rails and LIM

you have used just one of the methods to suit the base,, and dont need to mod the tops if that fuel rail is already to suit 14mm tops

the 1600\'s will be a prick to stage smoothly on some aftermarket ecus and the best upgrade i can call is to instead have gone for 4 x 1000 cc injectors
( siemens or rochy types , depending on your ecus ability to run saturated or peak hold types )
of the rochys , the best place to get them ( blueprint flow matched and modified for direct fit ) is from marren in the US

these fit easily, flow more than enough for most peoples needs , have dead times much like the stock ND and stage well on any ecu
( pro import versions are modified thus ,,,051000PI )

[bumpstart]

The Diffuser / breather assembly is 2 different bits. I don\'t know if those spacers require you to remove the breather or not. But in the top of the hole, it looks like a black ring - which suggests a grommet is still in the injector seat.

primary position is two piece, with a double mezzanine surface
( the first section being a spacer with O rings , the lower section is the diffuser with two deck diffuser plate )

, secondarys is one piece , with single mezzanine diffuser at the bottom

[Prof]

primary position is two piece, with a double mezzanine surface
( the first section being a spacer with O rings , the lower section is the diffuser with two deck diffuser plate )
 
, secondarys is one piece , with single mezzanine diffuser at the bottom

Thanks for clearing that up - I couldn\'t remember which way aroudn they were - I took mine out and replaced the o rings and gave them a clean - but I had the lim off and they were easy to push out from below with a long finger and soft brush - saves \'picking\' them and possibly breaking them.
 
Do you not need diffusers with the bosch injectors then ?  I know my SARD\'s had a 2 jet metal pintle cover which spreads the fuel nicely - and they were also hi resistance types.
 
I know the ECU that mitch is driving the injectors with will work with the bosch units, and he has series resistors in place to prevent burn out of the driver transistors.

[bumpstart]

i reckon the 1600 will probably blow the bottom straight off the atomiser
need them? prolly not as there will likely be boost and high volume airflows going through the manifold when these stage

they do have a :censored::censored::censored::censored:house pattern, but at these airflows not a lot will wet wall

the late style multechs ( marren/rochy 1000 ) also have a spray plate built in and have a pretty reasonable pattern given the flow rate

[m1tch]

Right, the plan is on removing the atomisers, I will spray them with oil in situe, I can fit something under the atomisers incase something snaps, I REALLY don\'t want to remove the LIM as it means that the turbo and all the lines will have to come off as well, not to mention snapping the OMP lines etc

I am going to try and remove them (probably with help) whilst the LIM is in situe, if they do snap and run down the LIM its got to come off anyway, but I would rather not have to due to the fact that I will have to probably replace the OMP lines with braided when they snap.

[bumpstart]

just undo the OMP lines at the banjo bolts on the pump itself
no need to break them

last time i tried what you suggest and ended up still having to remove the lim

placing bets now you get at least one out with three legs and no bottom spray plate