Think I\'ve got a boost leak?

B.Martin · August 12, 2011, 12:54:48 PM

I\'ve measured said parts and it seems that the part coming from the engine is 15mm and the BOV connection point is 20mm. Does that seem right to anyone? Could be a problem as i\'ve not seen any 15mm reducers from 20mm

why is everything so complicated?

B.Martin · August 12, 2011, 01:08:30 PM

I can get a 19mm to 16mm reducer, think this will be okay. Surely the hose can flex by 1mm and the other side can be jubilee clipped tight?

papercutout · August 12, 2011, 01:36:47 PM

I only have 1 request - please upload bigger photos! I run my monitor at it\'s native res of 2048x1152 and your piccies are tiny, so I can never help at all! 1024x768 is a good size IMO.

B.Martin · August 12, 2011, 01:54:41 PM

I can\'t my photobucket account is gay and i only have an iphone for photo\'s

m1tch · August 12, 2011, 05:28:41 PM

That massive rev up to 4k RPM is the AWS (accelerated warmup system) to disable is press and hold the clutch and put the gearbox in 1st and start the car.

B.Martin · August 12, 2011, 07:16:14 PM

That\'s fine, it really doesnt bother me. It\'s just the fact it won\'t idle that I want to get sorted, hopefully parts will arrive this week ready for next weekend.

m1tch · August 12, 2011, 09:30:39 PM

It will be a tiny tiny air leak, any bigger and the unmetered air won\'t allow the engine to sustain even a high idle.

B.Martin · August 13, 2011, 06:37:16 AM

Yeah I\'m sure it\'s only minor, I\'m just overly paranoid and refuse to drive her until she\'s 100%!

B.Martin · August 13, 2011, 06:12:52 PM

Right, well a mate of mine came round with some 20mm black rubber hose (like stock) so I\'ve fitted that in place of the suspect hose and replaced the taped bit with 2 peices of tape. It sits lower down now on idle, still not idling at 500 as it used to but then if I rev it it gets stuck at 1.5k again. If have thought the rubber hose with a tightened clip on would be okay on the 16mm part I mean it certainly looks tight.

Anyone with any further suggestions on the problem? Really getting on my wick now!

B.Martin · August 16, 2011, 10:42:36 AM

Been screwing my nut over this, the pipe i\'ve fitted looks like its doing the job and i can\'t really see how air would be leaking from it. There is no was that the BOV could be causing the air leak is there? Like it couldn\'t have come open for some reason could it whilst we\'ve fiddled about with it? Then again, it would have had to come open randomly before that.

Its doing my nut in my now, i can\'t seem to solve it

Prof · August 16, 2011, 11:16:42 AM

So if you rev the car it falls back only to 1500 rpm ?

What happens if you catch your foot underneath the accelerator and gently pull the pedal up - do the revs drop low again - can you find a stable idle point ?

I do wonder if you\'ve just got a sticking throttle mechanism ?

If you\'ve long and thinnish arms, you can probably get behind the intercooler and rev the engine from there - see if you can detect any sticking / over tightness of the throttle.

B.Martin · August 16, 2011, 01:04:27 PM

Right, i\'ll try that later this evening.

I\'m wondering if taking her for a drive might help, or is this a bad plan you think? This can\'t be caused by me changing the coolant pipes can it? As thats the only thing i changed since it was working fine.

Prof · August 16, 2011, 01:42:37 PM

Quote from: B.Martin;782576Right, i\'ll try that later this evening.

I\'m wondering if taking her for a drive might help, or is this a bad plan you think? This can\'t be caused by me changing the coolant pipes can it? As thats the only thing i changed since it was working fine.

Well - I\'m wondering if it\'s related to the warmup system on the throttle body not quite working as expected. Might be worth you \'burping\' the coolant system.

Warm the engine up normally, and set the heater controls to max (I know - it\'s Cyprus and 100 degrees, but it will open up all the coolant flow pathways), then jack the car up at the front. Wait a bit for the rad to cool - and carefully open up the rad cap - if it even starts to hiss back off and wait some more. The idea is to fill the rad up now, as it should be the highest point. Then check the expansion bottle is at or just under the level and pop the cap back on. Run the car again until it\'s warm and see if you\'ve got rid of the problem. Jacking the car up and running it a little should encourage any air bubbles to work around to the front / top hose and into the rad.

B.Martin · August 16, 2011, 02:15:31 PM

Okay sounds like a plan, i will do this first and see what happens. If no joy i think i\'ll take her for a drive and see how she responds, this will at least give an idea of what is problem i.e boost leak (if there is one) or something else entirely.

Thanks again for your help Prof.

B.Martin · August 17, 2011, 03:18:35 PM

Right, touching wood as I type this but it seems to be fine now. Prof I think your right it\'s something to do with the engine warm up sequence, this time I started it and it went upto 3k ish then down to 1.5 then finally down to 800rpm. So I took her for a drive to see how she ran and to see if there was evidence of a boost leak. I found that when I stopped at the trafic lights at the bottom of my road she was sat at 1.5, so I ignored it and carried on down the beach road. Around a mile later around 3-4 mins driving through casual trafic (and once the engine had inevitably warmed up a bit) I was again caught at some traffic lights. This time however the idle was at a normal 800rpm, then after some boosting with no problem at all and with the BOV seemingly working just fine I\'m hopeful the problem is behind me. I\'m going to assume that there is perhaps a small fault with the system that warms the engine up, I\'ll also try turning the heaters on later this evening to open all the coolant passageways.

Big thanks to (Prof) all that helped