Finally...

B.Martin · August 06, 2011, 05:33:11 PM

No, no, no, no! Lol!!

That pipe you can see is actually the bottom rad hose, which is why it wouldn\'t fit the breather filter :Giggle

The polish guy 2 door down called Natan helped me to fit the coolant hoses. Top one was simple but that bottom one was a real ball ache! I checked the towing eye but couldn\'t see the bolts for it anywhere so that\'s still off the car I had a go at the BOV though. A new freind I\'ve made called Orestis came by actually and did most of it, but either way it\'s fitted....

I\'ll post pics up later.

m1tch · August 06, 2011, 05:35:07 PM

Im impressed that you got the top hose off without shattering the water pump neck

B.Martin · August 06, 2011, 07:34:14 PM

Yeah it\'s fine. However I think the bottom hose needs more attention, I\'ve got water leaking from somewhere and I think it\'s there! I knew it wouldn\'t all be that simple and un-complicated. This you see is why I let other people do it, because if they screw it up they\'re the ones who pay for it! Hopefully I can find out where it\'s coming from tomorrow and fix it, such a shame it was going so well!

B.Martin · August 07, 2011, 12:41:11 PM

Here are some pics from yesterday.

From this

To this

Better pic of the BOV and make shift bung!

And you can just about see the really fricking annoying lower hose here

So here is how the bay looks now

So just need a few more silicone bits e.g. Turbo elbow, maybe breather pipe depends if I\'m going to change the air filter, there are a few others but don\'t think there are any kits about. I remember koose\'s engine bay, not sure where he got all his from but it looked awesome! He\'d got a lot of aftermarket parts though, parts I don\'t have!

(pic of koose\'s bay below, which is like my idol engine bay. Looks 100x easier to work in as well!)

B.Martin · August 07, 2011, 12:47:49 PM

Next job, after fitting the lower hose properly is this beast

To be replaced with this beast! (which is actually purple not blue as it looks!)

Although I can\'t see any way to remove the stock towing eye!

papercutout · August 07, 2011, 01:44:14 PM

Look at the stock towing eye on the right hand side (passenger side) of the car. It\'s held on by 3 bolts, look like 16mm to me.

To get to them you need to remove the brake ducts under the bumper on that side, and the headlight washer bottle. If you don\'t have a headlight washed bottle, that\'s even easier. I removed mine because I have no use for it, unless I go for water injection later on - in which case it\'s easy to refit.

OR remove the brake ducts and the bumper. The bumper can be a right pain in the arse if the bolts are rusty, which mine were. I sheared them all, so now mine is held on with long cable ties.

Koose\'s bay is nice, but don\'t remove the cowling unless you\'re fitting an electric fan, and the other thing I\'d do is remove the stock twin 90 degree bend pipe from the turbo to the filter, and fit aftermarket, straighter, better flowing pipe. (I\'ve not done this yet, but will do someday)

B.Martin · August 07, 2011, 02:08:40 PM

Is there 2 x 90 degree bends? I only remember seeing the one that joins to the top mount (which can be seen in the pics) is there another somewhere I haven\'t noticed? Mind you getting as angry as I have with that lower hose pipe I\'m surprised I\'ve seen anything at all through the red mist!!

I\'ve got full on war wounds from trying to fit this arse of a radiator pipe!! It\'s amazing how sharp that fan can be and my arm is so sore now. I\'m going to have to finish that pipe tomorrow I need a new jubilee clip, the oem clamp is just to frustrating and awkward. I don\'t have to space between the fan and the engine to get a pair of pliers in there, to get the clamp over the hose and it\'s fitting place.

papercutout · August 07, 2011, 02:16:06 PM

The big pipe that goes from the turbo to the air filter is ribbed and flexible and bends 90 degree\'s twice, thus constricting air flow. Fitting something much straighter helps correct this.

(this is what I\'ve learnt talking to prof regarding air flow anyway, and why we bother with compressor tubes etc when various other parts are restrictive, etc etc etc)

B.Martin · August 07, 2011, 02:19:27 PM

And I don\'t suppose it\'s possible to get an aftermarket replacement silicone job that\'s a direct fit?

Course not, that would be to simple right?

papercutout · August 07, 2011, 02:28:33 PM

No, of course not.

But if you look here at Prof\'s car (scroll down to pics of engine fitted) you\'ll see the pipework he has, basically what looks like a 30\'ish degree silicon bend coming off the turbo into a hard pipe, onto the air filter.

http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61619&page=2

m1tch · August 07, 2011, 03:03:01 PM

Yeah, you have to remove the air pump and emissions stuff before you can go for the straighter pipework, the 2 beds go around the airpump etc, next on my list of things I think lol

B.Martin · August 07, 2011, 03:48:41 PM

Is the airpump removable? Does it not need to be there then? I think my biggest problem is the stock rad and fan set up, what rad and fan set up can I get that will be future proof for say a V-Mount set up? I am understandably cautious as I want to do everything right and Properly and just the once! So on my agenda then is coilovers first, a front strut brace, then a new rad and fan set up with new wheels somewhere between. I\'ll get some more hoses for the engine bay as well to add to the aesthetic appearace of the bay.

papercutout · August 07, 2011, 04:00:23 PM

Why a front strut brace? If you plan on slamming the car (I don\'t know if you are) then it\'s fairly pointless, I\'ve actually REMOVED my front ARB to make the car less snappy. Especially on a road car, if you create a stripped out track car (whihc you\'re not) then you might get a small benefit.

I\'ve removed my air pump, it\'s what this thread started off being about! See the extra space:
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71478

B.Martin · August 07, 2011, 07:02:55 PM

Oh right, is the airpump not needed? There is so much info passed around on this forum my brain struggles to cope! Perhaps I should just take it even slower than I am! Anyway thanks for the help, I\'ll get back to researching coilovers, wheels and v-mount rad and fan set ups!

m1tch · August 07, 2011, 07:14:07 PM

Quote from: B.Martin;780551Oh right, is the airpump not needed? There is so much info passed around on this forum my brain struggles to cope! Perhaps I should just take it even slower than I am! Anyway thanks for the help, I\'ll get back to researching coilovers, wheels and v-mount rad and fan set ups!

The air pump is needed for emissions and if you have a cat (else it will explode) I have removed mine only due to having an aftermarket ECU that can tweek the idle fueling to pass the MOT. I specifically got an FC as it doesn\'t have as strict emissions as its pre 91, not sure what the MOT is like over there though?

If you do remove the airpump you need to make sure you are running either a dual alternator pulley or an idler pulley for where the air pump was due to the water pump pulley not having the tension of 2 belts driving it (can slip and then the water pump won\'t pump anymore!)

Its easy to remove, but just make sure you have either of the 2 options sorted first! I removed mine within 5 minutes, with the airpump my emissions were 0.18% CO, no cat, port air only (it could pass a cat test with no issues if needed) I think its 3% CO for our cars.