T88 and top mount?

Started by m1tch, June 28, 2011, 08:49:02 PM

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m1tch

Hi everyone, I have a Hayward Rotary custom V mount in the garage, but I am seriously considering running a top mount, I have an uprated top mount at the moment and due to the thickness of the core heatsoak isn\'t really an issue and it cools down really quickly with the smallest of movement.

I like my top mount as there is basically no lag as there isn\'t really any pipework to fill with air lol I know some Ethonol cars don\'t run an IC and just have a pipe due to the way the fuel works and they are running big power.

The turbo II is suited to a top mount due to the space under the top mount where air can flow due to shape of the UIM and it works with the bonnet etc.

Whats the highest power on a top mount IC? My T88 could be mounted almost in stock position and just have the outlet pointing up, gentle turn into the IC one end, straight through the IC and then down into the UIM.

12at

Maztech in aus ran their first 9 and 10 sec pass with their old tubbed orange rx3 coupe back in the day..
I had a another mate from Melbourne 13bt 1300 wagon run 10.9 with his also..
Honestly sort the v mount as you have it already.. Why compensate hp for the sake of it!!

m1tch

Ok, will try and sort the pipe routing, not the best with the FD PS pump in the way lol

12at

Whete there is a will there is a way or Sell/ swap both and get a front mount kit

SiH

Use an electric PS pump.:)

m1tch

Quote from: SiH;772539Use an electric PS pump.:)

Yeah I am thinking of fitting the Saxo PS pump which is a direct fit for the FC rack, issue is that the PS pump bracket is integral to the FD alternator :(

turbotoaster

well if your thinking of keeping the top mount and running a fair bit of boost then when you run your w/i kit, run 100% meth.

there is a guy running a t04e sized turbo in an fc with a stock top mount, running pure meth injection he got the boost up to 2bar.

thats pump fuel with meth injection on top, maybe something for you to think about if keeping a small cooler is essential.

personally id just run with no powersteering, its not like an fc is heavy.

ill be running a manual rack with 285 tyres on the front with the car weighing around 1000kg so id imagine it will be alot easier for you

m1tch

My top mount isn\'t OEM, its an ARC copy with a decent thick Pace core lol stock top mount has issues at around 14psi when it becomes an interwarmer.

I have just removed the FD PS pump off the bridgeported engine, should give much more space on that side, might fit an electric pump, will see. The FC PS pump has space for pipes, the FD one has a massive bottle with a large filler neck lol its just in the way of everything!

SiH

I\'m confused - are you running a predominantly FC or FD setup?
No idea about FC, but on an FD the alternator doesn\'t need the PS pump to mount. It\'s mounted on a pivot bolt to the top of the water pump housing, and the tensioner is attached to a bolt at the side of the water pump - that\'s the only way it\'s mounted.

The saxo pump can feel a bit odd in operation - I have no idea why though - mine\'s a bit floaty around the straight ahead, even with alignment tweaks. I\'m going to follow Craig\'s advice and try fiddling with the toe a bit more, but I haven\'t had a chance yet, so I can\'t say for certain if it\'s the pump or not. I\'m sure it didn\'t feel like this with the stock pump though.
If using a saxo pump make sure you give it a decent power supply and use a decent relay. There Are lots of reports of them blowing, a lot of the time it\'s down to wiring.

SiH

To show what I mean, look how the alternator is mounted (click for full size):


m1tch

Its an FD front end, FC housings, so the front is FD, I have removed the PS, the alternator bracket is partly supported by the bracket (there is a bolt that goes through the tensioner arm and the PS support bracket so that the alternator isn\'t just tensioned on 1 bolt that might slip if unsupported, which would mean the water pump wouldn\'t be driven!

Here is the bracket I mean:



I think there should be enough space to get a decent pipe past, might just cut part of the bracket.

SiH

That\'s for the ps tensioner/idler. Bin the while assembly and the bracket. It\'s fine without it and won\'t skip. Even with the locknut undone its supported by the tensioner/idler bolt-see my setup above, thats exactly what I\'ve done.