TII lag/response - mine vs other people?

[dthebuk]

i used to run that exact exhuast and put out more than stock boost. No idea how much though

[TiddlesRX7]

Hence me thinking the actuator arm has popped off

[papercutout]

OKay then Tiddles, want to run through checking the actuator arm, and potentially putting it back on? (if possible) photos pointing out where to do whatever are good too :p


Grinder, yes it does. It certainly should do!


Prof - have you got a photo or diagram of the bolts you mean? If I can get there I\'ll certainly check them! Any photo\'s/diagram of adjusting the TPS too?

I\'ll leave the CAS sensor for now!


Thanks guys, lots of input from you all, it\'s really appreciated!

[TiddlesRX7]

If I can get a photo of it I will but it\'s a bit hard to see down there. Basically from the drivers side of the engine bay. look down under the brake master cylinder. You will see the turbo right at the bottom of the engine. If you\'ve still got the air pump etc this will be even harder to spot. With the exhaust down pipe on the left of the turbo and the actuator on the right. The actuator has shaft coming out of it that runs under the turbo heat shield towards the back of the car. This the actuator arm that came off on mine and on other peoples also.  If you can get your hand in to feel if it moves from side to side that will indicate if it has come off or not. If it moves from side to side then it has popped off.

[Prof]

I\'ll post up a few pics for you
 
The first shows a turbo off the car - I\'ve labelled the bits that go iffy.
 
The next set of photos show the TPS - from above, showing the one on the outer side which is the narrow TPS - the one youre adjusting - you can also see the adjustment screw at the bottom - when adjusting this be careful not to push it as it will skew the setting.
 
The next shot shows the wiring - and a closeup of the connector showing the 2 wires that need adjusting (green and black).  All these photo\'s were with intercooler removed.

[papercutout]

It appears we have our answer! The actuator arm wobbles back and forth!

Will get onto stripping this down and sorting it tomorrow - sounds like a full day event really, as I\'ll need to strip a LOT of things out of the way won\'t I?

Fuel pump rewire etc will be on the cards for the weekend after next (since next weekend is Cornbury festival, which I\'m working at).

Now Prof, if you\'re able to come up with photos/labels/diagram of how to plumb in a manual boost controller, then I can do that too, so that when the arm is back on (and hopefully everything works properly) I\'ll have a modicum of control!


Might not sell the car if I get this fixed, as it might well drive like I want it to, and I\'ll be happy. I can\'t imagine the MPG improving though :p

[m1tch]

Yay for actuator problem lol its why I said that it was silly it wasn\'t adjustable, if it was you could \'dial out\' the wobble lol

You should be able to get to it from underneeth? There is a tiny circlip on the flapper arm - either don\'t lose it or get a replacement one. Although if you are going to plumb in a MBC then its probably easier via the engine bay, it should be easy to get to the turbo, you just need to remove the air box (few bolts) and then there is the huge S shaped OEM intake hose which when you get that out the way you will have lots of space in the engine bay lol

[TiddlesRX7]

Splendid The easiest way to fix it I found was from underneath. But you have to loosen the turbo heatshield from the top first. Think there was just one nut (M10 socket) from the top the then one from underneath. The heatshield should then split in two and you have to find a way of getting it far enough out of the way to get to the actuator arm. It can be a PITA if I am honest. So much so I never put mine back on when it came off! I did however shear the bolt that you loosen from underneath so that contributed to the decision. I will put it back on again soon when I get chance. If you need any more help just ask.


Ade

[B.Martin]

Yeah don\'t sell man you love your FC! Good luck and Hope you sort it out quickly!

[Prof]

Heatshield removal - there are 2 10mm bolts that secure it from the top, and one on the back facing forward towards the front of the car - securing the heatshield to the exhaust manifold - remove those 3 bolts, and if you want an easy life - take the O2 sensor off (22mm spanner) - then you can get the heashield off easily and as others have said - access to the circlip
 
Don\'t sell it - you\'ll miss it too much !
 
I\'ll see if I can dig out destructions for boost controller.

[yiug412]

I had the selling thoughts quite a few times before as well, but when the rotary is properly up and running, the joy it gives is amazing!!!!! even better than driving in an Italian super car with the stupid paddle shift IMO

[m1tch]

Im never selling my FC, no other car can get almost 900bhp out of a 1.3 litre engine lol more air + more fuel = more power, don\'t want to have to shell out on expensive forged internals!

[papercutout]

4.4l of German V8 was really beginning to tempt me, they have SO much grunt and torque and STILL give better fuel economy than the RX7!


BUT me and my mate got the actuator arm back on! What a pig of a job (especially when there\'s lots of oil on the bottom of your gearbox - you end up FILTHY!) but it\'s now done.


WHAT A DIFFERENCE!


BUT, new problem. It won\'t boost past 0.5 bar Feels like a mild fuel cut (no big jerk, just lots of small ones, it refusing to go further) Nice that 0.5 bar is being hit just after 3000rpm though!

So, idea\'s? I\'m running an R-magic ECU I got from Liam,who imported it from Jap-land for me. Why would it be cutting? I\'m not pushing it, because fuel cut lots = engine damage.

[TiddlesRX7]

Good news and bad news all rolled into one aye! I guess its time to start trying the other things mentioned earlier in the thread. Start at the cheapest and work upwards is my advice. Check all connections for boost/vac leaks, fuel filter, plugs etc next.

[m1tch]

Without a boost controller its just going to keep it at stock boost, so 0.5-0.6 bar.