Help - wipers stuck on

Started by johnf, June 08, 2011, 09:49:36 PM

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johnf

My wipers won\'t turn off - how irritating is that.

So I guess the switch is faulty, so anyone got one spare?

In the meantime I need to make them stop - where\'s the fuse?

How does the switch come off, it may be repairable.

Anyone else had this problem.

The switch has always been a bit suspect and the usual thing was that they wouldn\'t com on.

Hope it\'s raining tomorrow i look silly driving with the wipers on in the sunshine.


Thanks
I started with nothing and I have most of it left

Kamatari

Not sure about where the fuse is but if you take the cowling off theres a couple of screws behind that is holding the unit on it, at the same time you could unplug the connecter just for the wipers and that saves taking the fuse out incase it handles other things
RexMidlands - A place for Midland rotary owners to hang out

L18M

john, i got spare one. not tested but was in working fc.
£15 posted i guess.
need to find out how to take it out.

on a side note. anyone have flickering dash lights? would this be the switch or dodgy wiring?
2 doritos on a stick woohoo :rollin

Prof

Quote from: johnf;767672My wipers won\'t turn off - how irritating is that.
 
So I guess the switch is faulty, so anyone got one spare?
 
In the meantime I need to make them stop - where\'s the fuse?
 
How does the switch come off, it may be repairable.
 
Anyone else had this problem.
 
The switch has always been a bit suspect and the usual thing was that they wouldn\'t com on.
 
Hope it\'s raining tomorrow I look silly driving with the wipers on in the sunshine.
 
 
Thanks

If you\'re really desperate, you can pop the connector off the wiper motor in the engine bay - that\'ll stop \'em ;)
 
Wiper fuse is 3rd row down from the top (counting blade fuses not the current breakers), and 2 in from the right - it\'s a 15A
 
The switch is accessed by taking the binnacle / cowling off the gauges - the switches all unplug from the back, then it\'s 2 or 3 screws and it\'s off.  It\'s either going to be dicky contacts on the switch PCB, or a relay that\'s welded itself on.  Switch is repairable, but it\'s an pita to get apart.
 
Digikey sell the relays :)
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


B.Martin

Your a full on FC guru aren\'t you proof?!

Top stuff :Thumbs-up

Prof

Quote from: BenRX;767711Your a full on FC guru aren\'t you proof?!
 
Top stuff :Thumbs-up

Just owned one for 9 years as a daily driver and found almost all the things that tend to go wrong :rollin
"Plus this engine is probably one of the most volumetric engines going! It passes more air than a herd of cows eating vindaloo\'s" - courtesy of AtomicRex


johnf

Thanks for the info.

Would it be possible to check the relay before changing the switck, or any other way of isolating which bit is at fault.

Thanks for the offer Liam, if it is the switch I\'ll take you up on you\'re offer.

Where in Somerset are you?

John
I started with nothing and I have most of it left

johnf

Would it be best to check the relay first before tackling the switch.

If so where is the relay located and how do I test it.

Thanks

John
I started with nothing and I have most of it left

m1tch

Quote from: johnf;771576Would it be best to check the relay first before tackling the switch.

If so where is the relay located and how do I test it.

Thanks

John

This might help - usually its the intermittant wipe thats an issue

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/WIPER/wiper.html

johnf

Thanks for that, I\'ll have a read.

Having taken the cowl off I found a switch inside [see pic] any idea what this if for.
There are no markings on it, it has a slider on the top G or R and a volume wheel an the other side.

Thanks

John
I started with nothing and I have most of it left