poor running on single turbo

Started by nc30pete, March 22, 2011, 12:46:01 PM

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nc30pete

Right, got a suzuki cappuccino with twin turbo 13b engine in it, converted to single turbo but its not running well at all, its running std ecu which some of you guys have said it cant be done , this final lowdown ? if so i guess custom ecu is on the cards? which do you reckon i should go for?
 
What confuses me a bit is the bloke i bought it from is quite a clever chappy and i thought he would of done the relevant research into doing a single turby conversion before going ahead with it.....
 
hit me with the know how peeps! lol

Lacey

Far as I know a few of the guys here running single tubs do so with a PowerFD + Commander, usually looking about the £500 mark for both I think?
SuperCripple!â,,¢ & Co-Owner of JapGirls.
Happy owner of a constant work-in-progress, Red-Interior[COL

BlitzBoy

not surprised its running bad on the stock ECU which is designed to run the stock twins with the CAT and other emmissions gubbins like the air pump etc etc

Get a Motec ECU M2R model easier to setup on a custom setup as yours, as you are in Portsmouth contact Reworx in Portsmouth as they deal with Motecs on rotarys and do the mapping and troubleshooting on them
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

nc30pete

Sweet ! My mate told me about a rotary specialist in ports , he has a nice tuned corrado and uses jkm autos and he noticed the rotary place when he was at jkms last. Next port of call me thinks, contacted old owner and he is going to email me, will keep j posted of progress !!

clive

As it has value,  I think its worth asking the owner if he swapped out the ECU before you got your hands on the car back to a stock unit,

Could well be he\'s sitting on the ECU that came off the car thats already been tuned to your engine,

From my experiance a stock ECU will start the car but it will fuel cut the engine at around 2800 RPM,

Hope this helps
All the best Clive

nc30pete

Clive I\'m not following what you mean , he has only ever had the original ecu and he converted it to a single turbo for clearance issues in the Capp

nc30pete

hi guys and gals,
 
this is what i was emailed from the owner b4 mois... time for yer ten cents peeps
 
Hi Pete,

Apologies for the delay.

The stock ECU is (from the research I did) fairly simple, in that it takes intake pressure and temperature, along with rpm, throttle position and a few other parameters, and using its fuel map, turns that into an injector duration output. As long as any changes made to the intake and exhaust don\'t take these operating parameters outside the standard factory range, it should work fine regardless of the hardware layout used. The reason that people say the stick ecu won\'t work with a single turbo is because normally a single turbo is sized to provide a higher boost (and peak power) than the stock twins. On the car you have, the turbo is sized to provide no more boost than standard (easily measured), and so should work absolutely fine. It may be that it\'s not possible to optimise the fuel map to suit the setup, but it should run fine without leaning out, as long as the boost is no more than standard.

The three changes made to the factory wiring are as follows:
- remove the sequential control (done by removing the ratsnest and fitting a manual boost controller) - The ECU does not monitor these systems, so no faults should show on the blink codes.
- simulate correctly functioning emissions control systems (this is done with a bank of resistors wrapped up on the loom near the ECU) - the car had no fault codes showing, so was in correct operating mode
- simulate the oil metering pump - done by plugging the pump in, and placing it under the dash (the diagnostic logic is a pain with this thing, so this was the easiest option) - Remember to premix your oil with the fuel!

other than that, it\'s all seemed to be pretty straightforward, and it ran fine, but missed a bit at times, which made me wonder whether it was something as simple as a boost sensor (either the sensor or piping), the fuel pressure (either pump or regulator), or something else similarly basic. BTW, the pump is the stock FD3S one, but in the cappo tank.

All the best

Bob

m1tch

10psi on the stock turbo isn\'t the same air flow as 10psi on a larger turbo though, they move more air at the same pressure, meaning more fueling is needed otherwise I could just bolt on my T88 onto my engine with the OEM fueling lol

It might be easiest to run a remappable ECU meaning that its eaiser to tweek things in the future.

nc30pete

i see what you mean, regarding the oil metering pump, is he saying i have to mix in oil into my fuel tank each time i fill up ??

m1tch

Yeah, if the OMP has been removed the engine isn\'t getting any oil injected, so you have to premix oil into the fuel tank when you fill up like you would have to on 2 stroke bikes, did he say which ratio you needed?

I just re-read what he put, so he has just plugged in the OMP and tucked it under the dash!

BlitzBoy

damn he plugged up the OMP with out telling you to run premix and he is only telling you now ?????!!!!
you probably damaged the engine by now by having no lubrication on the apex seals so losing compression, how long have you run it without premix?
you need to run a ratio of 100:1  eg 10 liters of fuel with 100ml of 2 stroke oil mixed into the fuel tank.

And as been said before running a stock ecu on a non sequential setup does not work to well. The map on the stock ecu expects transitions of boost when the second turbo comes on line, And trying to run a single turbo on a stock ecu is on hiding to no where, 10 psi on stock twins gives no where near the same cfm (volume of air) as 10 psi on a single turbo.

You need an aftermarket ECU like an Apexi or Motec and get it mapped, the Apexi allows you to switch off the seq twins mode when running single turbo
"Piston Killa" 3rd Gen\'94 \'Oldone Racing Full Bridge Ported REW 13b engine with SCR seals\'. HKS T51 KAI turbo BBM mapped Motec ECU

JDS/HKS Street Class Championship Runner up 2011
Rotorstock winner 08,09
http://pistonkilla.blogspot.com/
old spec HB T51 470 @ wheels @ 1.2 BAR, 555 @ fly 10.46 @ 130 @ 1.25 Bar
new spec FB T51 482 @ wheels @ 1.15 BAR, 570 @ fly

New Project
"el fénix" RX2 by Mark & Mark

nc30pete

No damage is done , well not by me anyway, it has been moved onto a trailer and into a shed. I have had no time to work on it yet and was being cautious before taking any action ;-)

nc30pete

If I buy a custom ecu , would I be able to run the oil pump properly?

Mir

As far I know,
Apexi Power FC would run the (Oil Metering Pump) OMP ,
Motec, Not sure about,
Microtec, does not support the OMP
Link G4, I think does support OMP

Out of all the ECUs, I would say Motec is the best ECU and I have hardly heard that Motec ECU has blown Rotary Engines, thou I may be mistaken..

If I was you, and I needed an after market ecu, I would have bought Motec!!!

Syed
I am building a Genuine Fastest Street Rotary!
No Cutting and No Removals
Love FDs. Currently own:
20b-Triple Rotor,Single turbo FD
13B- Two Rotor, 2000spec on Stock Twins-FD
13B- Two Rotor, Single Turbo FD
Quote:
Originally Posted by youngone 
It takes some money for engineering a proper 20b

My C

nc30pete